Their GX line is indeed their commercial grade engine. The GC is the
dispose-a-motor. That is not to say that it is a low quality engine. I have
well in excess of 1000 hours on my CBC
And it still doesn't use a drop of Mobil-1 oil. I used to know the life specs
for both lines but I'd be afraid to quote anything from memory now.
From a maintenance perspective, the major difference is, once the GC wears
out, you throw it away. Since the whole engine is probably cheaper than a
rebuild kit for a GX of the same HP, no big deal.
The GC has several features of its own. Major among them are weight and
noise. The engine is very light weight compared to the GX counterpart. The
overhead cam with the timing belt drive is very quiet compared to the
cam-in-case design of the GX that uses pushrods. Noise, or lack thereof, was
a major consideration, as I originally designed this CBC for use in charging
my RV's batteries. Noise in a camp ground isn't very welcome.
The GC is good enough for anything a homeowner, small farmer or even casual
businessman (second job, that kind of stuff) will do. It'll probably out-last
whatever it's driving.
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
WARNING: Do not use this hair dryer in the shower!
The Gen ground post , one on the unit you wire to a ground? is to
protect you incase its raining or it malfunctions and you go to shut
it off, I move mine while the unit runs, if it doesnt work it is
another issue, like defect.
right, I mean the green covered "bolt" with the marking text "Grounding Post"
understood reading the manual that I should always use a heavy gauge copper wire
14 gauge) and connect it to my 8-ft copper spike buried in the ground (2 ft
the other "end" of the wire had apparently come off the 2-ft top section and I
could not discharge the powerhead properly while running (I am speculating as I
know what else may have caused it to shut down while running)
sorry, don't quite understand what you write above. It was raining and the unit
not moved while it was running.
You ran the unit in the rain! I hope it had a roof over it and did not
get wet. I mean that chassis ground is to protect you, not the gen,
units go bad or if its wet the operator can be killed if its not
grounded when the operator touches the generator. I just have my wire
attached to a piece of metal I throw on the ground, and i move it
while the unit runs.
yes, the top of the unit has a kind of lid that protects all parts in such a way
no water hits any electric parts and the powerhead is located under plastic fuel
so also protected from rain
ok, so the grounding wire is simply to protect me and unit would continue to run
without proper ground wire, got it
not sure then why it decided to turn off this time as I had no new load starting
this occurred, both fridge and ac were running steadily, not turning off and on
it decided to flicker lights and shut off.
is there a simple way to diagnose what it will do under load to simulate the
without actually connecting to house load?
I think you made a big mistake running it in the rain, read your
manual, its not rain-weather proof. Wet air is sucked through the gen
and motor to cool it and 100 humidity was in the panel. The ground rod
might have already have done its job and a direct short or malfunction
from rain might have actualy happened.
Although you made some good commentary remarks, it seems that you
don't know of a way to diagnose this, which is the help the OP asked
for in the first place. In short, you should have just said, "no, I do
not know of a way to diagnose this, but here are some observations,
And...no, I do not know how to diagnose this problem either.
OP said it still runs and puts out voltage, actualy he doesnt know if
anything is wrong, I said he should try it, it could be simply low oil
or alot of other things IF it doesnt work right but he doesnt even
know, my 7500w unit says its not weatherproof, I would not want it
rained upon water goes most anywhere and this is air cooled with water
going anywhere it wants to. Its not weather sealed..
perhaps my mistake in describing it but it actually is totally weatherproof,
there is not a drop of water possible to go anywhere on this unit, even in
rain. in a hurricane, yes, but yesterdays rain was a mild one where one could
walk for short distance and get just one or two drops
so, don't think the shut down was due to weather
I would gather up a bunch of blow dryers and electric heaters and add them
up until I got a resistive load about equal to the rated output of the
generator head being conscience of equaling distributing the load on both
legs of the output and see if it can produce the rated output. If you have
a Kill A Watt meter or something that to verify the loads that would be a
Check the oil level. Even if it was recently serviced that does not
necessarily mean the oil level is not low. If it is a slanted oil fill hole
fill it to where it is almost running out. You can temporarily disconnect
the low oil float switch to check for an intermittant problem. It is
usually a yellow wire.
Visually check for any wires (probably black) or connectors that might be
making contact with ground due to engine vibration.
Sometimes a bad On/Off switch can be intermittant. Most On/Off switches are
open while running and connected to ground to turn off the engine.
Disconnecting it temporarily (probably a black or brown wire) may help
locate an intermittant switch.
Remove the fuel line and check to see if it is flowing easily (use a
suitable container to catch the gas, of course). If not remove the fuel
filter (if it has one) at the tank shut-off valve and clean it. Honda
sometimes uses a filter screen inside the fuel line but probably not on the
Check the air filter.
Check the governor to make sure it is moving freely.
Check and regap the spark plug.
Sometimes a bad ingition module will start and run just fine and then
suddenly stop. Then it will start again.
If you do all this (what I call routine maintenance) and it stll has
problems remove the float bowl from the carburator and check to see if the
float is stuck. Sometimes there will be a little burr on the edges of the
float pivot that can be gently sanded off. There should be a screw near the
bottom of the float bowl for draining out the gas before taking if off.
Turn off the fuel supply first, of course.
Are you doing anything such as connecting this generator to an inverter such
as an OutBack or Xantrex SW?
Maybe the generator doesn't like your inverter AC. Does it work OK with
other comparable loads? None of my microwave ovens work well with any of my
generators. Neither do battery chargers.
Is this thing still under warranty?
did what you suggest above.
noted my Kill a Watt has a max rated watts of 1850 (see reverse side) so it
blinking the wattage display when it hit 2950, generator ran just fine
instead of plugging individual items into the 2-15amp-120v and 2-20amp-120v
used a heavy duty cord with it's own trip breaker (it is also rated like the
Watt at 1850w) and once power went over 3000 watts, this cord's breaker (not
again, even at that, the generator was running just fine.
Just so you realize that you have two seperate "legs" and each leg can
produce 3300 watts but neither can produce (much) more than that. It is
better to balance the loads on both legs.
Since you have a Kill A Watt I'd also check the output voltage and frequency
under a moderate load. I tend to adjust my 5000 watt generator to about 120
volts at about 1/2 load which gives me about 63 Hz. I find many appliances
run better at the slightly higher frequency mainly because the voltage is
higher (I think). Of course there may be some appliances that won't like
the frequency being that high and with no load it could run a bit too high
so you kinda have to check it a couple of times to make sure you aren't
going too far over. If your voltage is a bit low your AC might not like it.
so connect two separate items to two separate 20amp outlets and try running
does the fact that I managed to run off one extension cord 2950w dispel my
that the voltage regulator may have damage or does it mean nothing since I
from just one outlet connection?
the max output is rated at 8000w and running is rated at 6600w
not sure how this is done, please do post some details, if possible specific to
if you read the original details, you will find the ac is an inverter system,
converting AC to DC to AC so it does not care what's being input as it
line internally to suit it's own needs - thus, it also has almost no jump in
rotor amps but starts off with just 1.5amps and very slowly ramps it up from
over several minutes. it also uses max watts of about 700 but I have never seen
I already explained to you, a Honda GX390 is a common industrial engine, not
In other words: your off-brand generator just happens to have a pretty nice
Honda GX390 engine.
You now measure 120v that is no load? if so its at 3600 rpm. at the
3000w produced check voltage, even with avr its still likely 115v,
your AC may be fine at 115 but it does have an input range, I set my
unit above 120 to allow for load drawdown. How good yours controls
voltage only you cant test it from no load to full load. Whether 3000w
you use is off one leg or split from 220 call Northern. I would run it
and test it, having a low oil level sensor shut you down is common.
mark did not write anything about 120v but it was in reply to something
ulysses "see the >>" wrote
the northstar (as sold by notherntool) pro series have no voltage regulator
and have no low oil shutdown.
the voltage and Hz is controlled by capacitors and engine speed. idle
voltage is around 125 and decreases at full load/full engine speed to just
Well, if you can get that much power from each leg individually then you are
probably in good shape.
specific to the
I'm not sure how it's done either. Since you have some kind of electronic
voltage regulator it's different from having an alternator (generator head)
that is designed to run at 60 Hz at 3600 rpm and can output higher voltage
by increasing the engine speed. Increasing the engine speed also increases
the frequency. Perhaps yours cannot be adjusted. I am so used to using the
speed control type that I overlooked your voltage regulator. In any case
you can still check the output voltage and frequency and see if it looks OK.
Generally, from what I've read, most appliances will accept frequency
variations within about 2% so that would be about 58.8 Hz to 61.2 Hz.
However, I have found 63 Hz to be OK with most things. That is my personal
experience so your gadgets may differ. If you find that your voltage is
lower than, say, about 117 VAC and your frequency less than 58.8 Hz then I
would have the voltage regualtor checked.
seen it go
Most likely the inverter will be either on or off. If the DC input is too
low it probably will not come on at all. But inverters can be tricky. I
have a Honda eu2000 inverter generator with a worn-out engine. It will
start up and come on and output AC but it does not have full power because
the engine cannot deliver the full power. If your output voltage from your
generator is low then the air conditioner's inverter might not be able to
draw enough power to run properly. This all seems very unlikely because of
the size of your generator if you are only running the Air Conditioner. If
you have all of your appliances running from one leg of your generator then
you could simply be overloading it. You seem to have determined that the
generator has adequate output. How is it wired to your house or whatever?
Do you have each seperate leg of the generator connected to a seperate leg
on the house wiring? Are you balancing your loads by having the
refrigerator on one leg and the air conditioner on another?
At that price of his unit I dought his unit has anything special in
voltage regulation that will do any better than keeping it at less
than 5-6v swing, my 7500 Generac with avr is that way. He still needs
to manualy make a set point based on load used. 3600 rpm is still
60hz, and varies with rpm. Im sure an adjustment to rpm is easy to
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