I know my late mom's deck was a cheapo effort. Still, got PTW for the
decking boards. Now, all the screws are rusty and pulling out and the wood is
going bad, no doubt due to no kinda deck stain/preservatives and
covering the deck with household carpenting, which held the moisture
even longer than the Rocky Mountain snows. Plus, a buddy told me PTW
will rot regular deck screws (3-1/2" ).
I plan to eventually renew the deck boards w/ new PTW boards, but what
kinda screws? I don't wanna hafta do this again. ;)
they are ceramic coated. Or you can use hot galvanized if you can find
them - otherwise non-magnetic stainless.
Or use cedar or composite decking. Even good spruce will last as long
as some of the crappy PT being sold today if you through a coat of
penetrating stain or Thompsons on it.
I like ringed deck nails. They don't leave a hole
to hold water and are less noticeable once stained.
I don't know of any reason that one needs screws.
I've been seeing screws even in railings. SS, square
drive screws. They look fancy but split the wood and
offer no advantage over nails.
Holy crick-crock! So many variables. Do you mean ring shanked nails?
I haven't done any carpentry since 16 box nails were the height of
construction technology. Were talking framing hammers. ;)
When I built new steps for my late mom, I used screws. Not cuz I knew
best, but noticed the original steps and pretty much the entire deck
was done with 3-1/2 screws (now all rusty and pulling out).
The first thing I learned was, I didn't know the diff between a
battery pwrd drill and an impact/drill. After discovering I hadda
pre-drill all those screw holes (3 guesses which one I got) cuz my
DeWalt btry drill would only push those screws about half way, I
discovered the impact/drill. I now have a Hitachi drill/driver, but I
also have my late brothers framing air gun and a lot of his other
tools (he was a master carpenter).
Reading online, I see arguments for both screws and nails. I'll be
re-doing the deck board/planks in wood, in the CO Rockies, so a lotta
dry/freeze cycles. Hope this info helps ppl replying to my OP.
| Holy crick-crock! So many variables. Do you mean ring shanked nails?
None other. :)
| cuz my
| DeWalt btry drill would only push those screws about half way
That's another "improvement" that I don't get. I use
a normal drill as a scrwgun. It works fine. There are times
when a cordless drill would be nice, to avoid the extension
cords, but I really just don't find extension cords to be such
a big hassle. And maintaining one good drill is a lot cheaper
than maintaining high-powered portable drills and the
batteries needed to keep them running all day.
| Reading online, I see arguments for both screws and nails. I'll be
| re-doing the deck board/planks in wood, in the CO Rockies, so a lotta
| dry/freeze cycles. Hope this info helps ppl replying to my OP.
I would look at the reasons people give. See if they
really have sound logic or whether they're just repeating
something they heard. I'm in New England. Lots of weather
extremes. I just don't see the rusting of galvanized nails
that people talk about. Our deck here is almost 20 years
old. PT 4/4 x 6. It's not the most elegant wood, but it's
held up fine. I've also used solid oil deck stain (which is
hard to get now).
I think one of the big mistakes people make with PT
is to think it's impervious and then not put a finish on
it. That's not only ugly. It also results in a lot of splitting,
due to the combination of damage done by the pressure
treating itself and the drying from the sun.
| At 20 years old, it is probably the old PT wood, not the current stuff.
| fasteners are different.
It is the old stuff. So I have resistant arsenic
instead of whatever it is they're using now. (To
this day I haven't been able to find out what the
new "acq" is made of.)
But that doesn't have anything to do with nails
Alkaline Copper Quaternary (also known as ACQ) treatment is made up of
copper, a bactericide and fungicide and a quaternary ammonium compound
(quat) which acts as biocide.
It is, ime, mostly ineffective as compared to CCA which is, generally,
less effective than creosote (at least for posts in ground in this area).
Not sure what the above means, but--
ACQ, CA, ACZA and CCA all require hot-dipped(*) galvanized nails or
stainless steel nails and screws. Fasteners should meet the ASTM A-153
specification for hot-dipped galvanizing. 304 or 316 stainless steel is
good, some other common SS, "not so much". But note, don _not_ use
galvanized fasteners with SS connectors.
Aluminum should not in direct contact with these products.
(*) Electroplated/electro-galvanized and mechanically galvanized
coatings are _not_ equivalent to hot-dip galvanized. It requires Class
55 or higher mechanical galvanizing to be equivalent (per ASTM B695).
Still, it's info one must wade through or perhaps miss a key point.
CCA = Chromated Copper Arsenate
ACQ = Alkaline Copper Quaternary
Both ar Pressure Treated Wood (PTW), the later replacing the former by
I'm still getting conflicting opinions on which are the best
fasteners. A retired gen contractor jes voiced his opinion that ring
shank nails are to be avoided. (sigh) 8|
| CCA = Chromated Copper Arsenate
| ACQ = Alkaline Copper Quaternary
| Both ar Pressure Treated Wood (PTW), the later replacing the former by
| EPA dictate.
Yes. And it's not rated for ground contact!
So there isn't really anything for that now.
| I'm still getting conflicting opinions on which are the best
| fasteners. A retired gen contractor jes voiced his opinion that ring
| shank nails are to be avoided. (sigh) 8|
Does he say why? I get the sense that a lot
of people are just wowed by the latest thing.
It's hard to imagine any reason not to use
ringed, galvanized nails, except for Maggie's
point that screws can be easily taken out for
I just dismantled our back stairs I built about 6-7 years ago. I had a few
screws that snapped, but stripped heads were the more common problem. The
vast majority unscrewed just fine. Certainly easier and far less damage
than trying to pull nails (I try to repurpose old lumber whenever
For cedar and redwood I always use stainless steel screws. These prevent
the ugly black stains around the screws. Unfortunately, stainless is fairly
soft so it's easy to strip the heads, even when installing them. The newest
ones I used had torx heads and I didn't strip a single screw this time
I prefer screws for decks. They don't work their way out the way nails can.
I've seen several decks that were nailed where the heads were sticking up
1/8 to 1/4 inch. Dangerous for bare feet.
My deck is about 12-13 yrs old. PTW, but never any sealer applied.
It was installed with 3-1/2 gold (anodized?) phillips head deck
screws. The wood is now dried out and splitting, lotta screws stick
up about 1/4" and are so rusty, they either break off when trying to
unscrew or I can pull them out with a pair of pliers, the threads
having completely rusted off. I doubt the screws have twisted out,
it's more a case of the wood shrinking (I'm guessing).
On 9/17/2015 10:53 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Oddly enough, the lst few weeks I've been noticing
a couple boards coming loose, on my deck. I'd got
some 1 5/8 inch deck screws, they seemed to help.
But not really long enough to anchor well. The boards
are an inch or so, and that's not much thread into
the beams. Later I find that I've got a box of 3 inch
deck screws. My plan is later today to pilot hole
through the deck boards, and put in a couple three
inchers, between the shorter screws.
That should help hold the Pressure Treated Wood wood.
If not might need to visit an ATM machine, on the
way to get my auotomobile VIN number.
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