Death by car exhaust

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On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 12:08:25 -0700, Malcom Mal Reynolds

On second thought, the garage might not be sealed well to the outside, but I'd think it's sealed pretty well from the rest of the house. I wonder how the gas got into the bedroom. If she'd left the door to the garage open. people don't do that in the winter, do they, and she'd have heard the car maybe.

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On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 5:07:13 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:

re: "but I'd think it's sealed pretty well from the rest of the house."
And why do you think that?
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:21:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Because the ones I've seen have been sealed pretty well from the rest of the house.
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On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 5:21:17 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:

+1
The fact that so many people have died over the years from cars left running in the garage prove otherwise.
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On Tue, 29 Mar 2016 14:21:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

particularly regarding sealing between house and garage.
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DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

+1
--
Tekkie

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On 3/29/2016 3:08 PM, Malcom Mal Reynolds wrote:

Garages are not that well sealed. Cars can idle for days if they have enough fuel.
Unless the house is all electric, they should have a CO detector. If you have fossil fuel heat and no CO detector you are negligent.
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Also illegal here in Ontario.
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On 3/29/16 3:08 PM, Malcom Mal Reynolds wrote:

Two airport stories from a Volvo dealership.
Guy goes to the airport, parks car, forgets to hit the off button. Comes back days later, car is out of gas with a dead battery.
Husband drives to airport with wife. Curbside, he leaves with fob in pocket. Wife drives to mall. Hits off button. You guess the rest.........
The dealer also tested the fact that car will not shut itself down if fob goes away. Drove fob 5 miles away. Car kept running in the service bay.
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On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 3:09:00 PM UTC-4, Malcom Mal Reynolds wrote:

If it ran for 5 hours, it would run until it ran out of gas.
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On Tuesday, March 29, 2016 at 2:09:00 PM UTC-5, Malcom Mal Reynolds wrote:

Why keyless systems are stupid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbhHcxscu4Q

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On 3/30/2016 9:22 AM, Andy wrote:

I looked at a new ford a few months ago, and the thing had so many bells and whistles on it that they had to offer a class on how to operate it. I just needed a car with the basics and possibly a back-up camera on it, and I didn't want a keyless entry, either. They looked at me like I was living back in the dark ages. Those bells and whistles are nice when they work, but what happens when some software upgrade doesn't work, or the system just gets old and you need to upgrade the bells and whistles for a hefty if you want them to keep working? They funny thing about the test drive was that they couldn't get the software in the display panel to work right while I was test driving it. Can anyone say RED FLAG??
--
Maggie

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On 3/30/2016 11:27 AM, Muggles wrote:

I'm fond of standard transmission, crank windows, and other low tech. Sadly, even the key entry on the passenger side door is missing on newer cars.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:27:48 -0500, Muggles

I like all those goodies. There is no reason to think you'd have to upgrade the software to keep things running. Sure anything mechanical or electrical can break or wear out, but you don't have to upgrade a program to keep the power windows working.
What is nice is to have the seat go all the way back and the steering wheel to go up to give your old body plenty of room to get in and out and go into your favorite driving position when you push the START button.
I drive 22,000+ miles a year so I want to do it in comfort. If you just go to the grocery store a mile away once a week, different story, save the money.
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On 3/30/2016 2:59 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Well, I was driving on the interstate 16 miles a day back and forth to work, but that really wasn't enough to warrant all the bells and whistles like the amount you drive.
--
Maggie

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On 3/30/2016 10:22 AM, Andy wrote:

He bragged about his $2 key, but many keys are $100 or more. I'm on my fourth keyless car. I like it. Never had a problem. Nice to not have to fumble to unlock it by finding a keyhole in a storm. It senses I'm near, lights the handle and puddle lights and I touch a button on the handle as I open the door.
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On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 11:07:24 AM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

He talking about regular keys.
If you want a car that needs keys that cost 100's of dollars, so be it.
If the battery goes out in the key, what happens ?
Andy
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On Wed, 30 Mar 2016 10:41:55 -0700 (PDT), Andy

Yes, but not many cars have "regular" key any more. You don't have a choice if the car maker uses a chipped key. They don' t have a battery, but if you lose it or the chip is damaged, big buck for a new one.
IMO, the guy in the video likes living in the 19th century. His choice.
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Vettes don't turn my crank. A C6? Now you are starting to get close!!!
As far as the keys go - at least with Ford PATS system, the time to get another key is BEFORE you loose one
for Ford/Mercury 1998 and newer, If you want to add a key....
**You must have two original keys to perform this procedure. If you only have one key, you WILL have to take it to the dealer to get it programmed**
1. Insert and existing (working) key into the ignition cylinder.
2. Turn the ignition cylinder ON (RUN) and back to OFF. Ignition should stay on for at least ONE SECOND.
3. Remove the existing key and, within TEN seconds, insert a second working key and turn it to ON (RUN) and the back OFF. Ignition must be in ON for at least ONE second, but no more than TEN seconds. Remove the key.
4. Insert the new key before TWENTY seconds have elapsed and turn it to ON (RUN). Leave it the ON position for at least ONE second and turn back to OFF.
5. The security light will light up for THREE seconds to indicate that the new key has been successfully programmed.
6. To program additional keys, repeat steps 1 through 5
If you have lost one, and only have one left, you are at the mercy of the dealer.
For older Fords,1996-early 1998, it is a bit better -
If you want to add a key....
1. Insert an existing key into the ignition cylinder.
2. Turn the ignition cylinder to ON (RUN) and back to OFF.
3. Remove the existing key and, within 15 seconds, insert the new key and turn it to ON (RUN).
4. The security light will light up for two seconds to indicate success in programming the key into the vehicle.
5. Don't attempt to start the vehicle with any key for at least 1 minute.
On the older Fords you can set up your own new key (all keys lost) but on the newer ones the dealer machine is required - along with a minumum of 2 PATS keys.
on the older Ford PATS system you can do it yourself. It will take you the better part of 1 hour to do this. You would want to do this if, for instance, you had your keys stolen. Doing this makes the old key incapable of starting the car.
If you want to initiate a new master key....
1. Insert new key into ignition cylinder and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen minutes.
2. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder OFF and then back to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.
3. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder to OFF and then back ON (RUN) position. The dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.
4. After the security light stops flashing the third time, the new key has been programmed into the vehicles computer and will operate the car. It has replaced ALL the previous electronic key codes and is the ONLY key programmed into the vehicles computer.
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On 3/30/2016 4:59 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

OMG, my head hurts just reading it. I'll stick with my keyless.

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