sheild, which you cannot crimp a standard "F" connector to. You need
the Radial Quad Sheild Co-Ax connectors, which isntall with a
compression tool (Look up Zenith ZDS5061 for the tool) Also known as
Cheaper, quicker, easier, safer, less maintenance, do-able in a rental
house, and in many, most, or maybe almost all cases fully sufficient to
get all the stations one wants.
Far quicker, easier, and cheaper.
If it is insufficient, nothing stops one from installing a mast or tower
later. But one has to ask himself if that added 30% will bring in
more stations or will it just reach a doughnut shaped area of farmland
beyond the city whose stations you get with the attic antenna and 20
miles short of the next city.
On Sat, 19 Apr 2014 16:33:03 -0700 (PDT), Bob_Villa
First, I answered your question.
To drag Jesus into this in the way you did, I think means you've reached
the second level of snottiness.
That's for you to say about yourself. It's not for you to be dismissive
of people who don't have the money you do.
A used HD TV for 20 dollars at Goodwill???? If so, you were lucky.
Most people don't have time to go to Goodwill over and over until they
find a good deal like this. Some have 2 jobs. If not, it's a
this year are out of pocket drug charges is around $900.00 per month.
She was diagnosed with Parkinson and the med is $478.00 per month and
her diabetics med is $345.00 and then mine. Our Part D pays nothing for
her meds and no aid as long as you have Medicare. If you were like some
that did not try to pay there own way of course there is help. We have
had to cut way back and drop anything that is not necessary. I am still
working when I can but not on any company insurance since I am part time.
On Sat, 19 Apr 2014 19:16:19 -0400, email@example.com wrote:
$35 on Amazon. But I'm glad you warned me, and the other guy, in
But you have to use them even where it's dry? I gather the answer is
And do these also require the compression tool?***
(Amazon.com product link shortened) ***The text doesnt' say... Well it doesn't say on the ad page, but in
the questions it pretty much says yes.
I ask because they are called "Snap and Seal" which makes them sound
like they go on easily, like Tupperware lids. Of coure the next two
words in their name is "Compression Connector" but, always hopeful, I'm
thinking maybe that means "serving in the role of a compresson
****"Wait a second, Alice" as Ralph Kramden might say. I was using
examples from when I got cable, but I was only giving advice on running
his antenna cable into the house. Standards for that haven't changed.
But I'm glad you warned us because I might get cable again someday.
The question is a bit ambiguous. He CAN use the existing cable in the
house for his antenna, but it MUST be disconnected from the cable
TV/internet connection. If he disconnects the cable at the first
splitter, connecting only the internet to the incoming cable, he CAN
connect the antennae to the remaining installed cable. Just needs the
proper balun to adapt the antenna to the cable if the antenna is the
common 300 ohm twinlead instead of the 50/75 ohm co-ax
If you haven't all ready done so, you might want to investigate the Medicare
Advantage plans available in your area, especially their drug formulary and
charges for same. IME, they are often far cheaper than with straight
Medicare and no supplemental insurance needed.
On 04/20/2014 08:48 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have digital TV and cable internet (15Mbps). The outdoor cable the
company installed in about 2001 may be QS (although I think it is not).
I installed all the indoor cable, NONE of which is QS. There's even a
little RG59 (very short runs). It all works fine.
Your cable company may use QS because it's what they have (they're using
it for outdoor runs too). That doesn't make it any better.
BTW, HD isn't noticably better on a small screen.
Come to think of it, that's the advantage of digital, if the signal is
strong enough. Since the value can only be 0 or 1, whichever it's
closer to (or whatever other standard is used) it will be interpreted as
a 0 or 1. I'm sure it's smart enough that, if the signal is at 70%,
it doesn't just call everything below 50% zero and everything between 50
and 70 one. Instead it would note the maximum signal strength of 70,
and call everything 35 or above 1, and everything below 35 zero. (or
use a method parallel to whatever method or standard is used with
stronger signals. )
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