Cutting padlocks

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http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Master-Lock-40DPF-2-3-4-Round-Padlock-with-Shielded-Shackle-Stainless-Steel/99097/Cat/1378
http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Master-Lock-187XD-Titanium-2-5-16-Inch-Wide-Padlock/99020/Cat/1378
Ah, the old hockey puck locks. I cut many of those off storage lockers. Good locks.
Steve
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On Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:34:05 -0500, "Robert Green"

You're gettting there. Maybe just more wd-40 or liquid wrench. Then hit it several times to help the capillary action along.

it was I think a moderate to cheap lock, but it wasn't small, and itt had a brass key and maybe a hardened shackle, and I just hit it with a hammer, Took 3 tries until I actually hit it, but it opened on the first whack. .
Have not tried penetrating oil, hammer

My friend runs a ministorage. She uses an angle grinder.

Don't they sell them with rubber covers, over teh whole thing but the shackle?
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Go to the hock shop and look for a Makita or Dewalt or other major brand. Buy by color brightness. The more crisp and new the color, the better shape. Also look at where the cord enters the body for a nice looking cord. Don't buy anything with a cracked protector there, as that is an indicator of age. You should be able to get one for what you will pay for a HF brand, and have one that will last longer. The cutoff grinder will find countless other uses, might as well get a stringer brush and cup knot variety, too. (Caution $20 per item)
I cut off a ton of these when I had my welding business. I had about six storage places that would call, and I'd pop by and for $20 pop it off. Paid for lunch for me and my helper. I used an electric Makita 4" grinder. Then I bought the largest pair of bolt cutters I have ever seen, got it at a police evidence auction. They are four feet long. Damn near a two man operation, but it shortened a five minute job to a fifteen second job. The "hockey puck" locks were the same, and I used a Makita die tool with 14k rpm very thin disc. Not much room to get in there the way they have those configured.
As for weatherproofing, I can't offer much there except to protect the lock, maybe make a little cover out of sheet metal. For a new one, I'd shop for some brand name that has some weather resistant features. Tying a plastic zip lock on there with a rubber band might help, but then it tends to condense and rust.
Good luck.
Steve
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I had a Master padlock on my garage that was in the same shape as yours. The key would go in and turn but wouldn't open it. I tried every penetrating oil I could find. I got the hack saw out and it was about as effective as a butter knife. The hammer was next ... no go. I then took my propane torch to it. After heating it up cherry red and letting it cool, the hack saw cut it as easily as if it were aluminum. After reading the description of your lock set-up I can see that high heat is not an option but thought I would mention the torch bit for others in a similar situation. Good luck
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there is always dry ice
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On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 19:56:38 -0800, "Malcom \"Mal\" Reynolds"

Which would DEFINITELY shatter the hose.
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wrote:

I wonder if running water thru the hose would prevent that. Or just careful placement of the dry ice
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On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:58:31 -0500, "Robert Green"

Just put a ball of axle grease on the whole lock. In 20 years it might take a can of carb cleaner to get enough off to get the key in.
Or use cosmolene.
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wrote:

like
unimportant
tool
Much more expensive than the angle grinder from HF! (-" It would be nice to have a better set than the one I have now, but I just want the damn lock off and the angle grinder seems to be the solution du jour.
-- Bobby G.
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Robert Green wrote:

An angle grinder, even the cheap one from Harbor Freight has many uses you'll discover when one becomes available. Just today I used mine to cut the ends off of 1-1/2 screws that were used to hold coat hooks to a 1" board.
I've used mine to cut ceramic floor tile. It works swell for lopping off the concrete nails that secured carpet tack strips. You can use it to cut angle iron to the right length (instead of a hack saw). Fitted with a wire brush cup, it makes short work of cleaning hardened concrete off the mixer.
And so on.
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It is your answer, Bobby. Just get a decent one, because there are lots and lots of uses, and you'll be surprised how much you will use it once you have it. You can get a decent one at a pawn shop for what a HF one costs.
Steve
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blade in

abrasive
Is that like a roto-zip saw? I got one for Christmas but never opened it. Now might be the time!
-- Bobby G.
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On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 09:00:44 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"

And all these "automotive safety tools" they are selling everywhere to smash out a window to get out of a car. Burglary tools - used by kids all over america to break into cars by smashing windows - no rocks or hammers required.
Kids carrying them around being charged with posession of burglary tools?? Nope - the cops are too dumb half the time to realize what they are.
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wrote:

At work I have used a similar Bolt cutter. Works fine on most locks. There is one lock I ran across that was hardened and it would not cut it. A very stout fellow at work tried and all it did was put a chip in the jaw of the bolt cutter. We needed to get in so cut the hasp the bolt went through.
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wrote:

if you have one,a Dremel MotoTool and an abrasive cutoff disc will cut it.
or visit Harbor Freight and get an angle grinder and cutoff wheel.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
  Click to see the full signature.
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That would be my guess. Mine will go through 1/2" rebar.
Steve
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wrote:

Rebar is not hardened. Much softer than a good shackle.
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It don't matter. It will cut just about anything you can get in the jaws. Many times I have to sit one leg of it on the ground and then put my weight on the other, but I haven't come across anything it won't cut. Yet..............
Steve
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wrote:

rebar and hardened steel are two completely different materials
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On Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:20:17 -0500, "Robert Green"

That's very funny. And I feel safer now.
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