Cutting off the top edge of a car battery?

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What tool would you use to cut the black hard rubber? top end off of a car battery, the part that holds the plastic handle on? Hack saw, eledtric sabre saw? Some sort of hot wire device? ??
And is this a bad idea for some reason?
The battery in there now has no handle, but at least 3 chain stores around here, Autozone, Advance, and PepBoys, sell batteries that are the same size and shape, even though they are different brand names.. And if I want as many CCA as I have now, the end willl make it even harder to get the fuxse box cover off.
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You want to cut the top off aof a brand new battery that you are going to buy???? That just might void the warranty, to say nothing about the chances of shorting something out and blowing up the whole battery and maybe severely disfiguring your face and body due toi the flying acid from the explosion. BAD IDEA
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hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote:

Also alternator should have enough capacity to charge bigger battery in time when it is running down.
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this is not correct
Mark
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wrote:

You are right, Mark. At a minimum, the alternator only needs to put out a little more than the car uses, for example when the lights, heater fan on high, sound system, tv and everything else is on. So it can slowly recharge the battery while everything else is on. Although it would be more convenient if it put out more than that so that it could replace the charge used when starting the car a little more quickly. .
And if necessary one can get by on a little less. That is, for example, a slightly smaller alternator would work too, if the user turned off his headlights when watching TV and turned off the tv when driving.
I had a Universal Power Supply with a 5AH battery. When the battery died, I broke out some of the ribs inside the UPS to make room and put in a 10AH battery. It worked fine, just took longer to recharge the battery, but no longer to put 5AH in the 10AH battery.
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That's about as useful as saying "do the job right". Leaves the OP with no useful instructions. A wasted post. I thought you were more helpful than that?
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
Buy the RIGHT battery. Forget the PepBoys/autozone crap. There are quite a few manufacturers/brands that will sell you a REAL battery that will fit properly.
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Just think of the tax incentives. That should clinch the deal, right there.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .
If all else fails, get one of them 850lb batteries, remove the entire engine except for the starter, and use the starter to power the car. (You'll have to couple the starter to the transmission input shaft, using rubber bands or duct tape}.
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wrote:

Is the fuse box cover your only concern? The last time I replaced a fuse on a car was back in the early 70's. I'd not worry about it at all.
If you are cutting a protruding lip, not a big deal, but if you are cutting the actual case, I'd not touch it. Not worth the risk.
As you noted, battery case sizes are standard and every manufacturer uses the same one. They should standardize more parts, filters,, alternators, etc.
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That's what I was thinking too. If it just makes getting the fuse box cover off somewhat more difficult, I wouldn't worry about it either. I've only replaced maybe one fuse in the last 20 years here too. I however checked them a little more often than that when something wasn't working and as usual, started with the fuse.

Agree. If it's a clear extension piece to the case and he just wants to take that off I'd probably use a hacksaw. Can't say for sure without seeing it though.

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-snip-

You guys just driving 2-3 yr old cars? My Impala is 'only' 10 yrs old and I've had the covers off those panels [inside each of the front doors- so handy] a dozen times at least-- Not even counting the time, last year, that I fried the wires with one of those cigg. lighter compressors.
And these have been random fuses-- not an ongoing problem.
And thanks for the reminder--- the rear window defroster needs something- I'll start with a look in the fuze box.
Jim [and I'll jump on with everybody else-- Buy the right battery. Interstate are my choice these days http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/CarsAndTrucks ]
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No, one of my cars is a 32 year old Mercedes and I can recall one fuse blowing. I've had a variety of cars over the years and yes some of them I only kept for 3 years. I had corporate lease cars for 15 years and went through a bunch of Pontiacs. Never blew a fuse in any of them. I've had others including a 10 year old Porsche that hasn't blown a single fuse.

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wrote:

Nope, I'm talking cars that are 10 to 15 years old. I could be wrong about the early 70's though, it may have been the late 60's since I changed a fuse.
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wrote:

That's weird. Usually a fuse blowing means something is wrong., and the same fuse will blow again. Maybe it was a batch of sub-par fuses when they built it. My '97 Lumina only blew one fuse so far. I put a reman A/C compressor on it blew the fuse as soon as it kicked on. Did the same to a second fuse so I pulled the compressor off and exchanged it. That one leaked at the shaft seal after a couple months. On vacation in Florida where it was 95 degrees and near 100% humidity. Exchanged that for an OEM and an extra 100 bucks. Lot of wasted labor and 134a. I'll never buy a reman A/C compressor again.
--Vic
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micky wrote:

I would use side-cutters or tin snips.

If you break the seal and let the gel out, you're screwed!
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micky wrote:

Here ya go, say good-bye to the warranty on the battery though. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-high-speed-air-cutter-47077.html
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On 1/1/2012 3:03 AM, Mr. Austerity wrote:

This one would probably work better:
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-double-cut-saw-68316-8065.html
TDD
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Nice troll - down boy

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Go to a REAL parts store and buy the correct battery!
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Bad idea. Car batteries contain sulphuric acid, which is highly corrosive.
--

Christopher A. Young
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micky wrote:

Batteries make hydrogen. Cutting with anything that might create a spark makes batteries go BOOM.
--

dadiOH
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