cutting 6 x 6 beams with miter saw ???

Will a 12 inch, non-reciprocating miter saw cut 6 x 6 beams in one pass ??? I know it would be close, but I would like to hear from someone who has done it. Again, can it cut in one pass, so as to get a perfectly smooth cut ?

Thanks !!

James

Reply to
James
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It's going to depend on the saw. I would doubt it for most of them. It's not that difficult to get a decent cut in two passes if the saw is set up square. I can get pretty durn close with a hand circular saw if I take my time. Besides you're working with a 6x6 which is by no means going to be perfect in any other direction.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

No. First off, a miter saw does not reciprocate, it rotates, and no saw provides a perfectly smooth cut unless you have a rather loose definition of perfectly.

Make a miter box out of some scrap plywood and use a plain old vanilla hand saw, and clean it up with a sharp hand plane. It won't kill you, you won't mess up the beam, and it's good exercise.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

That's true but a 6x6 is not 6x6 either.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

I can't imagine how ANY 12" blade would cut a 5 1/2 or 6" cut. If you have a washer holding the blade on, the very MOST you could ever get is

5 1/2" and that is if you could cut all the way to the washer and that's not likely.
Reply to
Steve Barker

Do you mean a non-sliding miter saw?

I've never heard of a reciprocating miter saw, so I'm pretty confident in stating that *all* miter saws are non-reciprocating.

In fact, a reciprocating miter saw sounds really scary!

Besides, you'd be amazed at what a belt sander can do to clean up any ridges left from a cut made from multiple sides.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Thanks for the nice replies.... I made a mistake in using the word non-reciprocating... I meant non-sliding.... one chap caught that....

What is the next size, after 12 inch ? Does it go to 14, or larger ?

BTW, will be cutting dozens of 6 x 6 beams, so could cut down on work if we had a saw that can cut in one pass.

Am building outside steps on a slope, in the mountains. Will build "squares" out of beams, and stake them in the ground with rebar. Will nail beam squares together wtih 10 inch galvanized spiral nails. For the project, it will require a lot of drilling. Thinking about buying a basic drill press to drill pilot holes first.

James

Reply to
James

If you building stairs out of them then the cut quality is not that important. Use a chain saw.

Reply to
jamesgangnc

Do a Google search on 12" miter saws. There has a to be a tool review or tool comparison for 12" miter saw.

My experience with a limited number of 12 inchers says that you'll need to jump to a 14" miter saw to make that cut in a single pass.

Otherwise use a beam saw or a hand saw in a miter box.

cheers Non

Reply to
DD_BobK

Are you sure 10 inch nails are long enough?

You might want to consider re-bar. Probably cheaper and can be cut to lengths that can go through multiple beams and into the ground.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Did that not too long ago for clothes line and mailbox post.. I just used my circular saw and a speed square as a saw guide. This didnt cut all the way through but finishing with a hand saw was a piece of cake. Probably could have done the same with my chop saw. BTW my nephew was with me and I was trying to show him how to use the speed square as a guide...he has some coordination problems and was having trouble holding both the saw and the square so I had him clamp the square in place.

Jimmie

Reply to
JIMMIE

If it was a choice between top posting and you smoking, I think you'd get a lot of votes for you smoking.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Oren, I cannot decipher what this sentence means ??? Can you rephrase it please ? I would like to know the point you are making...

thanks again to all replies !!

James

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Not a task where cuts and bore holes have to be "perfect".

Reply to
James

Ok, see your points now Oren, thanks !!

James

Reply to
James

If that is the use, you are way overengineering it. That is not a "finish" type cut - use a chainsaw.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

I forgot the second part - drilling the hole.

Again, drill press accuracy is not required. A 3/8 or 1/2' drill and "speed bore" spade dills are the route to go. I've BTDT.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

Harry, I will not use a chainsaw, because as I said, I have seen steps cut with a chainsaw and I don't like the look. Perhaps most folks would, but I don't, and my project will look better when it is completed.

And, the purpose of the drill press has nothing to do with drill accuracy... it has to do with speed and manpower. I have MANY steps thurs many holes to drill for these steps.... I think that drilling perhaps 400-500 holes ten inches deep, would justify "considering" a drill press.

James

Reply to
James

James, I am not aware of any drill press capable of 10" quill stroke. I think you will definitely be in the portable drill market. The big decision will be whether to work with a ship auger or speed bores with extension.

You might consider using a reciprocating saw for the timber cuts if you do not find a chainsaw acceptable.

Reply to
DanG

What you need is a Milwaukee Hole Hawg and a ship auger of the appropriate size. Unfortunately, Milwaukee self feed bits don't come is the smaller sizes you need. Look over the bits and such in the section of plumbers and electricians specialties at your box store.

Joe

Reply to
Joe

Agreed. He is making this WAY more complicated than it needs to be. Even if he had a giant chop saw and wide-mouth drill press, I suspect that after hoisting and supporting the first half-dozen timbers to cut and drill them, he would be looking for another solution. An electrician's drill with and auger or long spade bit, and a small chainsaw, is what we used back in the stone age. A speed square and an old screwdriver, to scribe the cut lines, helps. Fit one end, mark the other end, shove a brick under it to keep the blade out of the dirt, and cut. Once timber is in place, drill the slightly undersize hole through the first timber into the second, and pound in the rebar peg with a BFH.

Only time we did fancy smooth cuts and used threaded rod or bolts, was for the pretty stuff up on the deck, which wasn't made from landscape timbers.

Yes, a Sawzall or clone would work and produce a prettier cut, but it would be a lot slower than a chainsaw. (The framing crews decking out the roofs on the apartments I worked on as a kid, used a chainsaw to cut off the wild ends on the decking. 3 stories up, strolling along with no safety harness. Those guys were all young and immortal, but I never saw one fall.)

-- aem sends...

Reply to
aemeijers

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