It's a bit hard to tell from the photo, but it sort of looks like there
might be a pretty heavy piece paralleling that cut joist just an inch or
so behind it. If that's so and that piece is properly supported and
contacting the underside of the floor, that would seem to make the cut
joist not much of an issue, 'eh?
If not, then certainly something more needs to be done.
It also looks like whoever was nailing the flooring in had a hard time
finding that joist. <G>
Looks that way to me too. But it doesn't look like the cut joist has
much to hold it up except for the nails from the floor above. If thats
the case, I'd just cut the joist a 1.5 inches more on either side of
the pipe, then add two cross pieces from the adjacent joist to the
larger beam. These can support the cut joist, which will butt into
them. Use joist hangers on the cross pieces, installed before you put
them up, otherwise nailing near that pipe will be a pita.
Well, not if the design called for the other nearby joint, which we
have no way of knowing. If it did call for 2 joists and you eliminate
one, your asking for big trouble.
Whoever did this should be shot. And a sister joist is the solution.
I disagree with it being sub-floor. The sub-floor is OSB.
The "joist" has a side and a bottom. You can see what
appears to be OSB in the gap on the right of the vertical
pipe. The uncut joist is probably supporting a wall behind
the toilet flange that is visible on the pipe. Sister the
cut joist to assure a solid toilet installation.
You know what, you're quite right. It also appears to be a 4X rather
than a 2X as the interrupted joist is. I'd say whoever put the pipe in
must have installed the extra joist, and oversized it just to be sure.
If that's the case, I wouldn't worry about it.
Thanks everyone for your input, unfortunately that is the only picture
I have at the time. I may have another one in a week or so, I just
wanted to make sure it was a major issue that I should get fixed.
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Or, just look at the picture yourself, and let us know whether
there's another joist behind the cut one, and approximately
how far away from the cut one it is.
To me it looks like another joist with a bit of pressure treated
lumber on the bottom. Eg: a sill plate.
Even if it is another joist (and probably not absolutely neccessary
structurally), I really don't like arbitrarily severed joists, and
it may give you problems with the toilet later on due to flex.
If it's what I think it is, a 6' or more piece of joist laminated on the
backside (I _assume_ the pipe won't interfere on that side), with
proper nail cleating would do the trick. If the cut joist has
dipped, you'll want to push it up a bit to get it back in line
before cleating in the sister.
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It\'s not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
After you shoot the plumber and the buildng inspector.....
Bear in mind I've been known to wear a belt and suspenders together, so this
may be overkill, but...
I'd use 4 feet of 2" X "whatever" on each side of the cut on both sides of
the damaged joist to "shim" out the joust, so that I culd properly "sister"
the joist without the "sisters" themselves hitting the pipe. . I'd use a
pnematic palm nailer to nail those in.
Then I'd put an 8' long sister on each side, tack nail that in to the
"shims" with th palm nailer, and then seriously bolt the whole sebang
together through all five layers of the 2" x whatever material. I'd use a
lot of bolts.
Yeah, steel would work.
Either way though, youd have ti shim out he joist adjacent t the pipe.
That ipe's circumference, in the OP's picture, is wider than the thickness
of the joist. There's no way to sister that joist with either steel or wood
unlesss you shim the original joist on both sides.
Me, I'd uste the wood sisters. Steel ain't cheap, is not as readily
available aswood, and can be very hard to work with without some special
tooling for cuting to length and width, drilling bolt holes, etc.
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