cut hole in load bearing wall concern

I have a load bearing cmu block wall (roof ties into it) that a plumber had to access inside to get to a water line to abandon. To do this he knocked out approximately a 12" tall by 8" wide hole in the wall near the bottom with a hammer (wall is a 10' tall and 8x4x16 open cell block not filled or rebar). See image. click to open the full size version of the image
Should I be concerned about the structural integrity of the wall being compromised from a hole this size, or should I add any kind of support to it?
Also, what can be done to cover back up the hole?
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Oren wrote:

Mix up some cement to a good "plastic" consistency, pack it into the compromised cells and brace a piece of plywood against the wall so the cement doesn't slump as it cures. Will be at least as strong as the unfilled block was originally.
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On 8/8/2013 11:38 AM, Pete C. wrote:

http://www.copper.org/applications/plumbing/techcorner/problem_embedding_copper_concrete.html
read this before you do it. might want to wrap the pipes first
nate
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Nate Nagel wrote:

Didn't look at pics, this is USENET and a text group. Didn't the OP mention something about "abandon", implying the plumbing is no longer in use?
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wrote:

Oops. I missed that :-(
Maybe the abandoned portion is on the other side of the wall. Maybe?
If so, then I didn't miss it. <g>
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On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 14:44:01 +0000, phxmod

The advice that has already been given is good.
However, the plumber that ran his line directly over an electrical outlet should have known better! If you are going to patch the hole the plumber made it would be prudent to move the electrical box to a safer location that is at least above, and further away if possible, from the plumbing before that is done.
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Looks like a 20amp receptacle to me.
---john.
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replying to Gordon Shumway , phxmod wrote:

--
To clarify, not all the lines were abandoned. This is a kitchen wall with a
manifold coming up with supply lines going to a sink to the left and to a
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A hole that size near the bottom would not compromise the load bearing strength of the all at all.
4" tall open cell block? I can't say I have ever seen such. Solid 4x8x16 yes, not open cell....oops, yes I have but the open cell is very small, I have used a few myself.
Harry K
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message

4" block walls should NEVER be load bearing, check to see as it may be a masonry veneer on a wood stud load bearing wall.
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replying to EXT , phxmod wrote:

EXT - The block is 4" tall, not 4" deep. It's 8" deep/thick wall, and 16" long.
--


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message 4"

Personally, I would use a chisel and a angle grinder with a diamond blade to clean up the edges and then cut some new blocks to size to fit but using only the face of the block not the full depth. This way the block patches would be only 1 1/2 to 2 inches deep. Mortar them into place carefully, it may take a couple of days because the lower levels may have to firm up before they are stable enough to go higher. If you don't care how the patch looks you may be able to get some concrete bricks to use on their side to fill the hole. Structurally, the wall is fine, window openings are much larger, something this small won't need a lintel.
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