Pretty much (although I cut one wire too short and no amount of crimping was
going to help that - I suppose a male/female disconnect but obviously the
solution was to save the scrap and redo the cutting).
But Lord almighty the ratchet crimper does the job first time every time if
you manage to get the wire through the hole right that is. I already
crimped an empty connector in a tight space where I couldn't see the wire
This gives me an excuse to redo all the 12vdc crimps I've done because they
are so much more positive than the old single "tooth" crimpers. Besides,
since I started crimping I've learned to use adhesive lined heat shrink
around such connections (two layers!) to add some extra mechanical strength
so that any tension on the connector is at least partially absorbed by the
shrink-tube reinforcement. Plus it keeps them waterproof.
Most importantly in my desire to play with my new toy, I discovered how many
crappy crimps I had entered into service because I didn't know what a good
crimp should look like. I suppose I should take pictures. I should be
ashamed to admit this but the crimp "blanks" are all color coded and I never
noticed before. D'oh. Anyway, the new tool has caused a wave of
maintenance to occur on cables that got less notice than they should. A
double blessing, sort of!
I envy your handstrength. The big plus here is that the crimpers oddly feel
almost hydraulic in nature. The last part of the squeeze seems effortless
compared to the midrange effort, as if some stored force is creating the
crimp. It's very odd. Maybe it's because once the resistance to the
deformation of the circular end of crimp occurs and it become elliptical.
That shapes means crushing it the rest of the way requires less force. With
the T&B (??) type tool I never knew how much pressure was enough. Now I can
be sure when the ratchet releases, the deal is done. The lessening force to
squeeze the crimpers almost acts as a shock absorber when the crimp is
Note to Joe Taxpayer: $20 got me *more* than enough "bang for my buck."
Far more than I expected although there was a moment that I thought "this
isn't any better than what I am using." After only a little more
experimentation I realized this was *way* better than what I have been
using. So much so, I am going to redo a lot of old suspect crimps (if only
for inspection purposes). I am leaving instructions for it to be buried
with me. (-:
The same thing happened when I got my Snap'N'Seal coaxial crimper for
waterproof connectors, mostly for cable TV. All of the old hex crimps (and
worse, twist on connectors!) came off and were replaced by the S&S
connectors because the technology and the quality of the crimp were so
superior - if, as Ralph says, you cut the wire right. (-: Took me a while
to figure out how to strip the wire for Snap'N'Seal connectors (and that
different brands required different prep) but I got there eventually.
I let someone borrow my perfectly aligned, three level RG-6QS stripper and
he ran it backwards and it never stripped correctly again. )-: It was
another miracle tool. If you just made the tool end flush with the end of
the cable and it would strip outer jacket, inner shield and center cable in
one quick "clockwise" whoosh. I still mourn its loss and haven't been able
to find a suitable replacement. Don't lend out your tools.
On Thu, 27 Mar 2014 06:31:15 -0400, "Robert Green"
Is crimping your hobby, or do you do it for a living?
I hope you won't feel you wasted 20 dollars when I tell you this, but
there is a drug in final trials that should be on the market soon that
should relieve the problem you've had.
You need to take it 3 hours before crimping. I think it's called
Be careful what you say to a crimpizoidal maniac. "You just watch yourself.
I have the death sentence on twelve systems!" (-:
I think you need some neural crimping. Some of your axons have become
disconnected from their associated neurons. A twenty minute session with a
Dremel, a cut-off disk and my new crimpers ought to straighten out the bad
connections. Let's set a time . . .
In the immortal words of Dr. Emilio Lizardo, "Laugh while you can, MB!"
Some day you'll discover a part of your body doesn't quite work the way it
To me, crimping sounds less sexual and more scatological. You squeeze and
squeeze and groan a little and finally a crimp spits out. (-:
In a follow-up to a follow-up, I discovered that the fully insulated
connectors I often use:
don't crimp nearly as easily as the plain old "insulated" terminals that
have insulation only around the base of the spade lug. The FI connectors
take a LOT more force than the simple units, which are the ones I use the
most, so it's no biggie. Besides, I can make the FI crimps on the benchtop,
where I can lean down on the crimpers. That's harder to do inside a box,
which is where the new ratchet crimpers excell.
The fully insulated quick disconnects when used with adhesive heat shrink
tubing make for a pretty watertight seal without a lot of fuss. If I am
really concerned about water getting in I encase the whole joint in
adhesive-lined HST - I can always cut the outer layer away if I need to
access the joint. I just bought a can of Liquid Electrical Tape based on a
note I saw here. Interesting stuff and great for things that heat shrink
tubing can't deal with. We'll see how it holds up compared to the ALHST. I
am going to redo all of the wiring for the battery-powered backup sump this
FWIW, Dave Houston in computer.home.automation turned me on to Allelectronic
where I've spent probably as much money as I have at Harbor Freight. HF has
better prices but occasionally Allelectronics gets a huge lot of something
like the Philips Stumble Lights that they price pretty low - far lower than
I think they would have had they known how quickly they would sell out.
The sensor for my Floodstop is set up on fully insulated connectors with a
spare already crimped up and ready to go. Same with the HomeVision
temperature and humidity sensors. I can swap out a bad sensor in under a
minute, even if I have to slice through a protective outer layer of HST. For
stuff I connect and disconnect often in "drier" environments I use these
They're not really waterproof but they come close enough and almost all of
my battery analysis and maintenance gear is standardized on them.
I like the fully insulated disconnects for another reason: when using them
with 12VDC equipment, I can always paint the negative ends black and the
positive ends red. That's helped a lot in keeping the magic smoke inside
things like trickle chargers. I did manage to repair one that had been
hooked up backwards. Two voltage regulators blew for a total cost of fifty
cents. Cracked the VR's right in half. Ever since then I have been
obsessively marking polarity on everything battery-related with red and
black nail polish.
I used to get the AllElectronics catalog but I haven't seen one in a while.
Just as well. I'd thumb through it and start to thing "I wonder what I can
do with that odd little gismo?" They'd come up with strange stuff every now
Yes. They were good for the oddball part and electronic device. A lot of
that stuff I can get for much less from Ebay's overseas vendors but at least
once a year I stock up on Allelectronics goodies. They used to be a great
source of neodymium magnets dirt cheap until China doubled the price for the
rare earths they produce.
They sell a great self-fusing rubber tape I've not been able to find
anywhere else, a really inexpensive grounded three-way adapter and some
really useful coaxial power plug adapters that can convert the standard
2.1mm power plug to a number of other sizes. The really good buys often
sell out *very* quickly. Some stuff, however, is dubious. I bought some
high-temp red and black automobile "zip" wire that was defective. If you
peeled it apart, the insulation would not strip smoothly and often it would
peel away where you didn't want it to. The solution was to score it with a
very sharp knife before splitting it. What a PITA.
Mostly the 1/4" female quick disconnects that are found on small 12V gel
cell batteries - the kind that a normally done by a "cheapy" unit that's all
a wire-stripper with different sized holes along the inside edges of the
Haven't found any likely candidates so far but I am still searching. I
found a fairly nice kit but it was for coaxial hex crimps, something I
couln't crimp with non-hydraulic tools even before arthritis found me.
Yes! That's exactly what I need. I have a pair of Ideal waterproof coax
crimpers that are articulated like bolt cutters that I can still use but I
haven't found anything like them for spade lugs and don't see how I could
adapt them to do what I want.
The search continues . . .
Thanks for your input, Mr. Bowman (and my apologies if you're a Ms. <g>)
Maybe you can try one like this ebay number.
eBay item number:
It ratchets and will not release before the full crimp is made.
I don't use them for terminals but use some similar to them for crimping
coax connectors with.
I use the ones like philo uses for the electrical terminals, but if I had
troubel with them, I would try the ones that ratchet.
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Wow! We may have a winner here! They are articulated like bolt cutters and
my Ideal coax crimper.
I suspect we own the same coax crimper.
I can hardly type the last few days I jammed up my hand so badly trying to
crimp a replacement connector.
Only downside is that shipping is almost as much as the crimping tool. Oh
well. If I had to drive around looking for these, it would probably cost a
lot more in time and gas that $11 - hmmm Ebay has been redesigning their
pages again - why is it showing me Canadian postal rates- ah, this is Ebay
du Canada! Are you from the Great White Way?
Actually, the item's listing lead me to a very productive search phrase for
There's a lot of potential winners out there.
That's the kind of leverage I need in the handles.
It's funny. My first Google searches were pretty inconclusive but once I
read a few replies and picked out the important search terms, there's a
whole hardware store full of "crimps for gimps" out there. Thanks, Ralph.
That was just the first one I ran across. There should be lots similar to
it. The one (actually have several) I have you can replace the jaws for
differant things, but there was not too much differance in the jaws and the
whole think , so I just went with the whole thing.
Once you get the connector started you can use both hands on them. Maybe
even extend the handles if needed.
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I recall getting a tire repaired and a few days later needed to remove
it to do a brake job.
The shop way over torqued it and I could not get it off with my
4-way...so I put a large pipe over it. Rather than removing the bolts,
all I managed to do was convert my 4-way into a pretzel.
I took the car back to the shop and had him loosen the bolts. I showed
him my deformed 4-way and told him: "I could not loosen them, and it's
not because I'm a wimp."
I think there's a testosterone thing about put
lugs on so tight the next guy can't get em loose.
I've had that happen enough times. I've taken to
insist on finger tight, and I'll torque them in the
parking lot. The air heads give me a lot of crap
about that "wheel will fall off".
On aluminum rims, it's essential to retorque, the
next day and 2nd day after. Those are at risk of
falling off (this, I know....)
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