regarding the question about automated dimmers. I am using (mfgr) Lightolier (model) MultiSetPro dimmers, switches, and controllers. The system is, IMO, fairly clever. The wiring connections, however, are very complex.
Each switch and dimmer has 5 connections: hot, neut, gnd, switched hot, and data buss. Each controller (and there *can* be something like 30, if you want.... I have 2) has 3 connections: hot, neut, and data buss.
Each switch and dimmer can be operated manually just like a regular switch/dimmer. In this case, you are manually overriding the system. The controller has 5 "scenes". Each scene can be any combination of dimmer/switches, and any individual dimmer brightness setting. To program, press a scene code (for example "A"), set up your room the way you want it, then press a set button on each dimmer or switch. The dimmer or switch remembers how it is suppposed to act under program code A. Same for B, C, D. 5th scene is all units "on".
The buss connection is low voltage, low current, so you can use a single strand of insulated wire and snake it to retrofit. In my case, I had the sheetrock off, so I ran
14/3 romex and used the 3rd wire for the buss connection.
Once you program things, it remembers, even if you cut the mains, so there is some ePROM kind of thing in each unit. There is also a wireless remote, if you are *really* bored.
In my case, I have under-cabinet fluorescents, halogen task lighting, and halogen wall-washer accent lighting for each kitchen counter, plus halogens around the dinner table. I have different programs for working at the counter, sitting at the table, mininal lighting, and "ambience" illumination of the cabinets I built myself. Since I have 2 controllers, one at each kitchen entrance, I can call each program from either entrance. It is definitely excessive in terms of kitchen lighting, but I wanted to fool around with lighting as a design element. Even if you don't groove on "scenes", it is very nice to be walking out of the kitchen and hit the "OFF" button to kill all the lights in the kitchen, independent of what is actually on.
It all works. My only beef is that each box is a rat's nest, a real wiring nightmare. I wanted to try and clean things up a bit, and was pondering the idea of crimping the connections. Hence the original post.
I actually think I'll get a good crimping tool and try some crimps, but *NOT* in the kitchen. Instead, I'll just pick a simple place and try one.
The thread has had lots of good info and opinions. Again, thanks to everybody who weighed in.
Bill