craftsman door opener as described below..... driving us crazy

139.53663SRT    41D4674-11    41D4674-10C    971LM    976LM    Security + This thing is making my head hurt. Sorry this is so long but ANY help on this is much appreciated... I have a 1/2 HP Craftsman garage door opener. The unit was purchased new and is now almost three years old. It was professionally installed and has functioned fine since that time. It has two Security+ (rolling code) remotes and a wireless keypad. Around the middle of December, 2000, one remote stopped working. I figured the battery was dead so I replaced it. No luck. I contacted Sears and was told that if the battery died, it may have lost its codes. I was told to reset the unit and reprogram the remotes. It's all downhill from here... I dumped the codes (using the SRT button on the logic board). I followed the programming instructions that state that you should hold the remote button down, press and hold the "light" button on the wall pad, and press the "door" button. Using these steps, I added the first remote no sweat. I tried adding the second remote and the unit would not accept it. I tried using the alternative method of adding remotes by pressing the SRT button and then pressing the door button on the remote. Again, it works fine for the first remote but it won't allow me to add the second one. I know what you're thinking -- "Idiot, the remote is bad." Oh, but check this out... I dumped the codes (SRT button for six seconds to reset the unit). I reversed the remotes -- that is, I added the other remote first. Guess what? It will allow me to add THAT remote but then will not allow the OTHER one to be added. This can be repeated over and over with the same results. It appears that the unit will only accept one remote. I went back to Sears to get some advice and they told me the logic board was bad. I purchased a new logic board and installed it. I reset it and I tried to program the remotes. I had the SAME PROBLEM! I have since removed the new board and reinstalled the original one. The only piece that has remained constant was the keypad. I thought that maybe something was wrong with it and it was interfering with the programming of the remotes. I removed the battery from it, dumped the codes from the unit, and tried to reprogram it. No luck. Same problem. I even tried programming one remote, removing the battery from it, and THEN trying to add the second remote (thinking the first remote was interfering once it was programmed). No luck. Same problem. Someone told me this in this group but they neglected to tell me how to fix the problem.
From:        Stu Lunger - view profile
Date:        Thurs, Feb 8 2001 2:52 pm
Not yet rated Rating:
Reply | Reply to Author | Forward | Print | Individual Message | Show original | Report Abuse | Find messages by this author
OK here goes (delurking for the moment) This gets a bit complicated and I'll try to make this as simple as I can. Door transmitters have evolved substantially these last few years. A long time ago each transmitter had their own unique code, but there weren't that many codes back then and as more and more of these units were sold, it became obvious that people were opening each others doors from time to time. Along came the dip switches. The dip switches were great, because everybody could program in their own unique code eliminating the possibility of two people on the same block having the same code, or if they did they had the power to change it themselves. The next stage of evolution was the "billion code" transmitter introduced by Chamberlain (Sears) which was great (and simple) because although your code may be the same as somebody else's, the chance was almost non-existent. It was simple to because there were no more switches to fool around with and all you need do was push the transmitter button and hold down the smart
button at the same time. Along came the rolling code transmitter. The rolling code transmitter is almost the same as the billion code transmitter but, IF THE TRANSMITTER IS DROPPED ON THE FLOOR, IT WILL REVERT BACK TO A BILLION CODE UNIT, and that's your problem. Once you clear the memory from the opener, the opener will accept either billion code transmitters, or a rolling code transmitter, but it won't accept both. The confusing part is that once its programmed for a rolling code transmitter it will operate 1 time only when you attempt to program a billion code transmitter and vica versa. Stu Lunger Steel-Craft Door Products Ltd.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Ummm... Bought new. Three years old. Problem started in Deecember 2000. I think your problem is that you exist in more than one dimension.
Terry & Skipper, Clearlake Texas
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
i am not sure but i think your answer is a very small attempt at being a smart ass. since you actually signed your offering as Terry and Skipper i can only assume that neither of you are attractive enough to get a provocative partner to fill your dull afternoons. or perhaps you are actually homos who wish they could provide a manly answer to a manly question but fall short due to a lack of testosterone. please find a kids chat room or something and leave these grown up places alone.
welman26
Mys Terry wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.