Crack repair in drywall

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On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 11:15:16 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Well, I feel good (for me, not for you) that the horizontal crack by the sliding glass door starts right at the top of the rough opening, as I suspected. I'll admit that I expected it to go straight over, not down some more and then over, but it ends up right where I expected it would.
This may mean that they did not correctly supported the structure when they moved the door. Seeing the position, condition and support for the header that should run across the entire top of the door would be interesting.
I'm assuming they moved the door to the right as you look at it from the inside. That might have left part of the header "cantilevered" to the left of the new opening. Maybe they didn't add enough support under that cantilever and it is now sagging. I say that because of your mention of the door being moved 2 feet. The vertical crack that starts at the ceiling seems to be about 2 feet from the door, right about where the original header would extend to. Then it runs horizontally, perhaps along the top of the header, then downward before it goes horizontal again perhaps along the bottom of the header. I'm visualizing a 2 foot section header in the area below the horizontal crack.
On the other hand, perhaps that wall is structurally fine and the wall cracks are just superficial stress cracks of the plaster itself. (it is plaster, not drywall, correct?)
In any case, good luck!
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On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 08:15:11 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

pictures. If you can confirm the direction of the cieling joists parallel to the wall that will clinch it 100%.
Call Mike Holmes!!!
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On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 03:34:50 -0600, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

"ramshackle" house on it. The foundations and floors were not level and it was drafty as a barn when he bought it. He did some repairs and modifications to make it "liveable". There was an early addition on the hose that was more or less level and square. One day while he was on the road and his wife was gone into town for shopping, the house burned down. There was enough left for the fire marshall to determine the fire was caused by an electrical cable running between the old house and the addition which had been worn through thy the shifting between the two parts of the structure over the years. It chose that day to light the place.
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On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 11:01:23 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

structural issue there somewhere - the problem is a lot deeper than just drywall.
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In wrote:

How do you know it was a load bearing wall from the photo?
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I think you've hit the bulls eye.
The crack looks like load bearing wall was removed. The ceiling and wall are moving.
--
Dan Espen

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In

Maybe, maybe not -- IMHO.
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consistent with poor structural integrety - and hearing there used to be a wall there it all just makes sense. Also what little was shown in the picture of the surrounding building features
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On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 8:08:47 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

I looked at the photo again on a better monitor and I see a lot of cracking I missed the first time.
This one is begging for somebody who knows what they are doing to look at it in person. I think a significant structural issue is possible.
The pattern of cracks looks like it may be following a block wall? Too much unknown here.
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On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 8:40:44 PM UTC-5, TimR wrote:

PS I think the wall is moving because it wasn't a bearing wall, it was a shear wall. Somebody took a look, determined it wasn't bearing, and thought it could come out, not realizing there are other forces a wall may be resisting.
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In

Ok, got it. I can't tell for sure either way from the photos.
It looks like the right side of the photo shows a sloped ceiling that maybe goes up to a skylight or is just a cathedral ceiling in that area. And, maybe, what was removed was only a wall that came out a few feet and maybe it did support that part of the ceiling. Going across the whole ceiling, I didn't see any evidence that the ceiling joists were going across the photo. If they were, I think maybe there would be evidence of a crack on the whole ceiling where all of the ceiling joists going across were not tied in to a header.
But, it's all just guesswork without more info from the OP. That is one reason why I suggested that the OP remove some of the plaster along the ceiling crack(s) and take a few more photos to post here. Maybe that would show some of the underlying structure.
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On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 1:44:54 PM UTC-5, TomR wrote:

The vertical and then horizontal crack that heads over towards (or emanates from) the window concerns me also. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'll bet dollars to donuts that if he pulls the curtain back we'll see that the crack starts at the top of the rough opening of the window.
Assuming there is a proper header above that window, it's quite possible that everything to the left of the ceiling cracks, including the wall, have settled.
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On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 5:24:27 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

ere had once been a wall between the living room and the kitchen that wall was removed, and if so it would have stood right about there.

Holy crap!
I couldn't view the picture until I got home, so I was just reading the res ponses about retaping, replacing corner bead, etc.
Then I get home and click the link to the pictures, fully expecting to see some minor drywall damage, a few hours of work, etc. But holy crap, that's not just a seam repair.
In the second picture you can see a horizontal crack that runs behind the c urtain. I'll bet dollars to donuts that if you pull the curtain back you'll that the crack s tarts at the top of the rough opening of the window.
There is definitely some structural issue going on. Something settled and m ay be continuing to settle.
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TimR posted for all of us...

+1 That was my thought. Looks like the taped joint let loose. I don't see any stains but... Investigate further. It's a kitchen and the hanger just might have pulled the tape loose, along with the moisture from that big bowl of spaghetti you are making for us.
--
Tekkie

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com explained :

I read ahead some. There was a wall right about where thewall and lid are sepparating? I'd check the framing and see if it meets code. A metal tie-in strap, more framing to strenthen the wall and soffit, ETC. Is the walls made of driwall or plaster?
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On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 4:18:19 PM UTC-5, Eagle wrote:

I don't think it's settling if the crack is only here.
I suspect when they took the wall out they did a less than perfect job of taping up the old exposed area. If so, just rip out the tape and do it right and you'll be fine.
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I agree that when the wall was removed whoever did the job did a less than perfect job, but not of taping. They probably did a poor job of structurally supporting what the wall used to support.
My guess is the wall surface is lathe and plaster, not drywall and tape.
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Gordon Shumway formulated the question :

He did say driwall, so it would be bast to ask Him if it's driwall or plaster. We both agree the framing is most likely the problem, so patching the tape and compound is just covering the reason for the cracks. All we can do is judge what those two pictures show, and to Me, the framing is the cause of those cracks.
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On 2016-02-19 6:55 PM, Eagle wrote:

I am actually going to agree with you, just this once. :-) That is way more than a crack, serious structural problem going on, get a professional opinion, a band aid will not fix that long term.
--
Froz...

Quando omni flunkus, moritati
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