costco honda generator

[Ulysses]

> 13hp, $180

> Wayne

A couple of years ago I was looking for a replacement generator engine. The Honda GX270 was going for just under $700. A comparable Chinese engine was selling for around $250, but I couldn't find any with a tapered shaft. It sure seems like there is a market for a replacment generator engine that a "standard" generator head would bolt right onto. Many times I've considered replacing my "use only as a last resort" Tecumseh-powered generator with an OHV engine but since then I've actually managed to get it running well. I replaced the fixed idle mixture jet with an adjustable screw and disconnected the crankcase breather and attached a primer tube and now it starts with one pull! It's like a miracle. I've actually been using it on a daily basis lately to run my well pump. I must give them credit for one thing though: on a really cold day it would really warm you up yanking on that rope trying to get it to start. I'd sometimes be so hot I'd have to take my shirt off when it was 20 degrees.

[Richard W.]

> > 13hp, $180

> > Wayne

Often time you have to special order an engine with the taper shaft because they are a specialty item that doesn't move very fast. There are so new engines on Ebay under generator parts. I have seen several 10 HP Tecumseh engines there. They also have a 6 HP OHV that I have been wanting to get before they are gone forever.

Richard W.

[The Daring Dufas]

few places' that small

means run with a load on

frequently ???

All the stationary backup generators I've installed were setup to crank and run for 15 minutes once a week. The newer Generac models run at half speed during test mode in order to make less noise. The weekly test keeps the generator ready for use at a moments notice. The homeowner can do a load test, if they desire, by turning off the main feed to the circuits covered by the genset. As for small portable generators, you always use fuel stabilizer/ treatment if it's a gasoline or diesel powered. One good reason for a monthly test is it will cook or blow out any critters that decide to take up residence. A monthly test will also keep the corrosion down by splashing oil around the crankcase and boiling away any water that may have condensed on internal and external surfaces. Getting the generator portion warm will also drive out any moisture that may have collected. You could use an electric heater for a load since it would mimic the load bank that a genset service company would use.

TDD

[vaughn]

Most Onans that I have seen have the points box on the top of the engine. Still not always convenient, but at least you don't need to dismantle the engine. The manual for my CCK (no oil filter) specifies 100 hours. That might sound like a lot, but it would be the same as several thousand miles in an auto engine.

Vaughn

[Bruce in alaska]

Maintainance is the key to longevity on ANY Mechanical Device. Having a Pressure Lubeoil and Filter System increases the Oil change Period form

50-100 Hours, to 200 Hours, or once a Year, which ever comes first, on the Onan Engines, and MOST other 4 Cycle Gasoline Fueled ICE's. Converting to Dry Gas Fuel can increase that to maybe 300 Hours, BUT, remember that LubeOil, is the cheapest Insurance MOney can Buy.... Very Few of the classic Opposed Twin Onans are Magneto Ignition, so in most cases, the Points are located on the top of the Engine near the Carb. This class of Onan Gensets are KNOWN for their reliability, and long Lifetimes, (10K Operational Hours) IF the OEM Periodic Maintainance is done. The problems come when some owners just think they can store them away, for years, sometimes, and then drag them out, blow the dust off, and expect them to start and run, 24/7/Days or Weeks with no issues.... That expectation, is just plain stupid, for ANY ICE, not just Onans. If you can't, or don't, do the Periodic Maintainance, don't expect to have power, when the Grid goes down..... and that classes you as a "FlatLander".... "City Boy" for you Red Neck Types....

[You]

Contrary to popular belief, Diesel Fuel does NOT require ANY Stabilizer... as long as it is Clean, in the first place, and not sucking water into it, in the second place. Water will be taken out of the fuel, by the Primary and Secondary Fuel Filters. So as long as it (water) is minimal, it goes away, when you change the Filters.

[The Daring Dufas]

Since I'm not the world's leading expert on the subject, I have to ask those who are. Like these:

Granted, many sources are biased toward their own products but looking through multiple sources one can ferret out the real information they all have in common.

TDD

[Ulysses]

>> > 13hp, $180

>> > Wayne

I have one of the Harbor Freight 6.5 HP OHV engines that are currently selling for $110. I got mine for $99 about a year ago. It's a straight

3/4" keyed shaft so it's good for belt-drive etc. The only problem I've had is they have some kind of fuel vapor device on it that gets clogged and has to be blown out or the engine will die from no air. I rigged mine with an external gas tank so no more problem. In any case I think it's a good engine and would rather have it than my Honda GC135. >

[Ulysses]

It sounds to me like the Onans have many advantages and few disadvantages. I may be needing something in the 5K range in the near future so thanks for all the info.

[Ulysses]

Actually, it doesn't really sound like a lot to me. I am guilty of pushing the limits on some cheap engines as far as oil changes go. I used the change the oil on my Chinese 2000 watt genny every 50 hours, as recommended. It has about 3000 hours on it now and I've been changing the oil about every

100 hours (or slightly more) for about the last 1000 hours. At 100 hours the oil is still transparent and not very dark. Looking at the oil may not be the best way to determine when to change the oil but it seems to be working for me. OTOH on a Briggs I might change the oil after only 25 hours because it'll look black and yucky by then. >

[Stormin Mormon]

The cheap oil gets loose and runny. Loses the viscosity protection. Please use good brand of oil. Castrol is my favorite.

[You]

You can be Daring, all you want, with your own opinions. That is called Free Speech, but when you spout Crap, people who know can always smell the stink.....

[The Daring Dufas]

You obviously understood nothing I wrote. I explained that I'm not the world's leading expert on the subject and can only write about my own extensive experience with generators which includes the very small to a few large EMD systems. Most of my experience is with gasoline and natural gas powered systems. I have limited experience with diesel powered units and have never had to tear down and repair a diesel engine. My experience on diesel gensets is limited to maintenance of the engine and repairs to the various electrical and electronic assemblies. I once had to repair the voltage regulator from a GM Delco 20kw diesel genset that was in the hold of our 100 foot crew boat in The Marshall Islands. I took the regulator to the island TV shop and discovered a thermal intermittent caused by a defective unijunction transistor on the circuit board. I was able to find a close match in the stock of TV repair parts and fix the problem. That was 20 years ago and I've repaired more than a few since then. Please include a source to your allegations of my ignorance since I'm not the world's leading expert and would very much like to learn as much as I can.

TDD

[Bruce in alaska]

Well, I, for one, agree with this "You" fellow, in that Stabilizer isn't needed in Diesel Fuel, for the operation of Diesel Engines. I have 40+ years of operating, maintaining, and generating ALL my own power, out here in the bush of Alaska, mostly with diesel fueled Gensets. I have burned diesel fuel that was left over for WWII, and was over 40 years old at the time of use. It was in sealed 55USG Drums, found in an old Military Bunker. Burned just fine, with no difference in generating capacity noted during the run. If you have clean diesel going in to your tank, and keep the water out of the tank, diesel will store basically "Forever". I have a 250KUSG TankFarm, that we fill every fall, and the diesel is just as good in the spring, as it was, when it was pumped in the previous Fall. Some of the fuel in those tanks may be 2 or 3 years old, before it gets used. Never had a problem in 40 years, except ONCE, when we got a Barge Load, with bugs in the fuel. We had to biocide three tanks, and so did every other customer that got a delivery from that Barge, that trip. All paid for, by the distributer, and a BIG Apology, for delivering Bad Fuel. We don't get the GasOhol Crap that the Feds force on you Flatlanders, as the barge can only carry one Grade of Gasoline, and it needs to be FAA Certified for 80/86 Low Lead AVGAS, so we don't have to deal with most of the Gasoline problems you guys do. Our #1 Diesel is JetA50, as well, so we always get the "Good Stuff" from the Distributer, rather than the slop they pump to the Consumer Sales places.

[The Daring Dufas]

I also agree that diesel doesn't need stabilizer like the gasoline that it's meant for. The information I have indicates that newer diesel blends aren't as good as the older blends because of government mandated emission standards. Hell, you guys in Alaska know more about diesel generators and small airplanes than any other Americans for obvious reasons. It wouldn't surprise me if you didn't get fuel from Russia from some folks who also know what works in the God awful cold. I would imagine that the 40 year old diesel fuel you found was not kept in a warm environment. I think the problems I faced with diesel fuel in a tropical climate may not plague you in your somewhat less tropical climate in Alaska. We had extreme humidity and condensation to deal with and tried to keep things warm to drive moisture out of equipment. Bugs love the tropics. By the way, correct me if I'm wrong but isn't jet fuel blended with additives to prevent gelling or microbe infestation since jet fuel is often exposed to environmental extremes?

TDD

[Stormin Mormon]

Many years ago, sometime in the eighties. I met a fellow who told me he ran out of gas one night, along the road. A trucker stopped by to help. they drained a couple galons of diesel out of the truck tank, and poured into the car. The car ran very poorly, but did run.

Like you say, wouldn't totally surprise me if Alaskans bought fuel from Russia. More likely, Russians come over to buy fuel. Since supply problems used to be epidemic in Mother Russia. Like how medical care is a problem in Canada, and they come to Michigan.

Wasn't there something about jet fuel, they wanted to add a jelly something so that if a plane crashed, the fuel didn't atomize and make an explosive mist?

[Bruce in alaska]

Nope, "Jet Fuel" as you call it is JetA50, and is the same thing a #1 Diesel, Home Heating Oil, and a few other names. The difference is, that to be classed JetA50, and sold for Aviation Fuel, it MUST be Filtered to FAA Spec, and be within the Specific Gravity, FAA Spec. So, what the Distributer does, is he has only one Grade of #1 Diesel in his tanks and when he pumps it for Transport to a customer, it goes thru a different set of filtering for Aviation, than for Home Heating, or #1 Diesel, but it all comes from the SAME Tank. With #2 Diesel, in cold climates, they have what is called "Winter Mix" where the Distributer will mix #1 and #2 Diesel, to lower the GellPoint of the fuel when loading the Truck or Barge, for deliveries starting about August, and increase the Ratio of #1 to #2 the farther North and away from the coast the fuel is destine for. For Gasoline, the distributer will have an "Additive Package" that they add to the Tank when dispatching a Load, designed for the prospective customer. Many times Shell, Chevron, and Mobile Gas Stations, will get their fuel from the same Distributer or supplier and the only difference in the fuel is the "Additive Package" put in, as the basic fuel, ALL COMES FROM THE SAME TANK. Depends on who owns the Refinery, or where the Distributer bough his fuel from, the last time. I have seen the same truck at two or three different Brand Gas Stations, in town, on the same day, delivering fuel. the distributer is 250 miles away, so you know they didn't fill the truck three times that day.

[The Daring Dufas]

Cool, thanks for the information. Makes a lot of sense to carry just one type of fuel that will work for everything especially when space and facilities are limited. The same additive package mixing at the petroleum distributors goes on here too. It's quite interesting how that's handled but I'm guessing there is a greater variety of fuel types to be had down here in Alabamastan. When I've talked to the guys who drive the gasoline delivery trucks they've told me about the compartmentalized tank trailer with so many thousand gallons per compartment. They will have a load for one brand in one compartment and another brand for the next station in the next compartment (different additives). Many people think it's just one big homogeneous load in the tank behind the truck. I always thought and have heard that "jet" fuel was kerosene, a much lighter fuel than diesel and that truck drivers would mix kerosene with diesel in cold weather so their trucks would run. I know the military has vehicles equipped with multi fuel engines and am curious as to what exactly they'll run on. I understand that M1 Abrams tank with it's turbine engine shares the fuel supply with the helicopters but heck it will probably run on peanut oil. By the way have you guys got the Toshiba Micro Nuclear Reactor yet? I read about an installation planned for somewhere in Alaska.

TDD

[Worn Out Retread]

This should clarify what aviation fuel is and isn't

[George]

My buddy has a liquid fuels business and I have seen the tanks and pumping systems at multiple fuel dumps and they all had a totally separate tank for Jet A if Jet A was delivered from that facility. In my area there are two huge fuel dumps but the Jet A used at the local airports is trucked in on transports from another state. Also there isn't a tank called "#1 diesel". They have multiple tanks for ULSD and LSD and kerosene.

With #2 Diesel, in cold

It is more complicated than that. Certain additives are required and certain additives are optional. They have an array of injector pumps that meter in the additives when the truck is on the loading rack according to what the customer purchased.

Many times Shell, Chevron, and

All truck tankers have bulkheads to form multiple compartments. That adds strength and limits spillage in case the tanker is damaged and it also allows them to haul different product in each compartment if they want.