I am going to finish my basement and in short I'm going to have to
move my hot water tank about 10 feet so I can finish that part of the
basement. How much should it cost me to have a plumber come in here
and move the hot water tank, disconnect th gas and the ABS pipe and
the electrical and all that and reconnect everything ? I'm in Ottawa,
first how old is the tank? if its more than a few years old your
probably better off installing a new one. in the finished basement
will a leak do damage? all tanks leak sooner or later:)
Is the ABS the pressure release valve line or is this a direct vent
its going to be hard to estimate price, but add a drip pan to drain if
a leak will do damage
On Sat, 17 Nov 2007 16:56:17 -0800 (PST), car crash
That's going to cost you a fortune. You most likely do not have
enough money in your life savings to pay for this and you'll end in
debt for life. It would be cheaper and easier to leave the water
heater where it is, and move the house. But if you insist on moving
the heater, you better sit down for this............ prepare to spend
anywhere from $350,000 to $600,000. I'm a professional plumber and
this is the estimated cost for the labor. Parts will be extra, plus
you'll need a costly building permit.
Al's Plumbing & Heating
Are you people for real ??? It's a simple hot water tank that is only
1 year old. Yes there is water in it, but how hard can it be to
disconnect two flex lines and a gas line and reconnect it all 10 feet
thanks you have now established its one year old, that helps some.
so how does it vent? up a chimney with metal vent pipe? or is it a new
tech direct vent using plastic exhaust lines?
given the minimal info some here were pulling your leg.
if it vents up a chimney then moving it from that chimney may cause
much grief and costs.
things that can drive up time and costs........
moving tank away from chimney
hard location to direct vent like underground basement
permits from city
inspections for permits
how many new lines need run, water and gas
tanks leak often meaningless in concret floored basement, big deal if
it can damaged finished space. may need floor ripped up to add sewer
line right by tanks new location, or alarm and sumpo pump.
draining disconnecting and moving tank is the easy part. the pricey
stuff is above.
whil;e your thinking of finishing that space if its a basement whats
your cieling plans? consider that theres a forever need to access
water, sewer, and wiring in that basement cieling you are likely
planning on drywalling
need electric at new location?
The answer is yes, no, maybe, and definitely.
Not a word was said as to whether the pipes are soldered together or
threaded. Big difference. Not a word was said about the age of the tank
and whether moving would be economically rational if the thing is just going
to go poof in two weeks. Not a word was mentioned as to if the new gas pipe
was to be surface mounted, or have to go inside the studs. Not a word was
mentioned about earthquake strapping. (You might not know it, but in a lot
of places that haven't had major earthquakes in centuries, there is now a
code requiring earthquake straps.) Not a word was mentioned about a new
catch pan to keep a leak or rupture from doing co$tly damage.
With such an exact description, what do you expect? If I was to do it, I
wouldn't guess as to cost because once you start to break pipes apart, you
may have to replace more than originally anticipated.
AND, tape for gas joints is about double what it is for normal tape.
It's like asking an open question on the Internet of : What's the weather
going to be like tomorrow?"
Duh. The Internet is worldwide. How's it going to be where I am really
doesn't have anything to do with what the weather of the OP will be.
I will stick with my $500 estimate plus permits if necessary. And that's
just to move the old tank and not replace. Let's see who's closest.
Clearly "Al's Plumbing and Heating" isn't for real.
As for the rest, it's an open question. I moved my own gas water heater in
a long afternoon. A plumber would have been quicker since (s)he would have
just used all new fittings off the truck and I re-used as much as I could.
Moving the vent can be just as much or more of a pain than re-locating the
gas and water.
Without pictures and a description it's difficult to say how long your
particular project would take. I'd think the least amount of time it would
take is 3 hours (everything perfect for the move) and hopefully the most it
would take is a long day (everything has to be seriously re-routed).
One other thing - in your original post you mention ABS and electrical.
What's up with that?
will the vent be shorter good? or longer? longer mightr be bad.
will you need a new electric outlet at the proposed location?
I think the 500 buck estimate is on target or low.
why not call a couple local plumbers and get some quotes
On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 20:20:01 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
Best advise yet. It doesn't matter what people here estimate, it's
what you get for local quotes that counts.
I once had a plumber quote me $1200 to replace an electric hot water
heater. That's disconnecting & re-connecting two copper pipes and one
electrical wire. I had already priced the same unit he was going to
use and it was $350 retail, so that was $850 for about two hours of
labor. When I told him he was nuts, I called the office and they said
they could knock off $100 but that was it. Of course, it was Saturday
and they figured they had me over a barrel.
LOL - that was the day I finally bit the bullet and learned how to
solder copper pipe.
I reckon you're looking at 1-2 days labor plus parts plus permits
and taxes. You'll probably need an electrician on top of that.
I agree with other posters; replace the heater unless it's in
fairly pristine condition and add a drip tray (maybe with alarm).
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
You're nuts. Try that, and people will die. Water heaters are
extremely heavy with all that water in them. They are also top heavy
so they must be moved with extreme accuracy and precision.
My company will spend at least a week just stabilizing the tank and
removing the water and gas pipes. We will then have inspectors insure
they are safely removed and capped to prevent an explosion or water
leak. Then we will spend another 3 or 4 days analyzing the path of
the move, testing for asbestos, radon, carbon monoxide and lead.
Every square inch of the floor will be photographed and a computer
generated graph of high and low spots will be detected and charted
using infared technology. We will also determine any electrical
wiring in the path of the move, and have a licensed electrician
temporarily disable these circuits.
The third week, we will run a laser across the perimeter of the floor
and xray the concrete to insure stability. It may take more than one
week to chart everything. The area is charted down to 1/64th of an
inch to allow for particles and grains of sand in the concrete which
could cause the heater to overturn and cause catastrophic disaster,
possibly resulting in death.
The fourth week we build a ramp and scaffolding to assist in making a
smooth move. We apply tracks and our electrical magnetic pulse motors
which act to move the tank one millimeter per magnetic pulse, and each
pulse is computer timed to the chartings of the floor surface. We
then apply a silicone coating to the concrete and buff it into the
surface. The entire tank is then strapped to the scaffolding and
leveled within 99.999965% accuracy.
The fifth week we begin the actual move. The tank is moved no more
than 1/4 inch per hour, and an electronic level maintains constant
monitoring. If the tank is more than 0.0000000001% out of level
accuracy, we shim the tank until it's properly in line. A 66.82%
level of helium is pumped to the low end of the tank to lighten the
force against the abrasive floor, and all used helium is sent into a
special helium recycling plant which is constructed outside the home.
The sixth week we may or may not have the tank to it's new location
depending on the distance and condition of floor. If not, the move
continues for days or weeks more.......
The last week we move and re-attach the pipes as required. To prevent
losing even one drop of water, we use a special chemical compound that
causes the water to turn to a gel inside the pipes. Once complete, we
begin tp move and replace pipes. Once all pipes are moved and
re-attached, we have the system inspected, and bring in our certified
team of valve handlers to turn the water back on.
For the following two weeks we have a special team of drip specialists
who watch the heater 24/7, to insure there are no drips or other
problems. They use highly technical electronics to look inside the
tank and the pipes which functions similar to a MRI, which gives xray
images of the flow, rates the GPH, pipe wall thickness, thread stress
of fittings, and temperature ratings at 200 critical points within the
The gas flow is also monitored and any amount of gas exiting any part
of the system, even one molecule of gas leaking into the surrounding
atmosphere will signal our security team to shut down the entire
plumbing system, disable gas within a three miles radius, and shut
down all electrical systems to prevent any sparks.
If everything passes with 100% accuracy, the system is given the seal
of approval, the building inspectors are called in to approve the
work, and the following week is spent dismanteling the scaffolding and
electronic monitoring systems. At this point the electricians return
to re-power all wiring in the path of the move. We also send in out
cleanup crew which removes any marks which may have been left on the
floor during the moving process. The concrete floor is them
sanitized, and waxed. All walls near the water heater are then
painted and sealed to insure that no water enters the structure from
the outside, which could cause the water heater to fail.
After this is completed, the homeowner's keys are returned to them,
and they are allowed to re-enter their homes.
After this, we have our our inspectors enter the house on a weekly
basis for the duration of a year, to insure everything is working
Total time period involved to complete job, 11 to 18 weeks.
Total cost of job anywhere from $350,000 to $600,000 estimated labor
cost. Parts and equipment use are extra. You'll also need a costly
I'm a professional plumber. This is a professional estimate.
Please send payment in the amount of $12,900 for this estimate, plus
$1,689 S+H. Net 10 days. We accept, Cash, Check, Credit, and
Money Order. Sorry, no Paypal accepted.
Al's Plumbing & Heating
On Sun, 18 Nov 2007 01:16:31 -0600, alsplbg& email@example.com wrote:
I think you are most definately a professional since you know the
exact procedure that should be used to move this water heater.
I have a friend in the plumbing business and I assisted him on a job
very much like this, after one of his employees, who was in the army
got sent over to Iraq. He did the job just like you, but when he was
doing the job, he also had the water tested, both before and after the
job was finished. I remember him saying "one spider gets in the tank
and the water becomes contaminated and people get sick". One can
never be safe enough. You really should include these water tests for
that kind of money. Just my un-professional opinion.
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