Stumbled across this on the web. I have no affiliation, it just looks
like a cool tool if you've got a lot a baseboard to install. OTOH, it
could be a piece of junk.
In brief, you make a mold of your baseboard's profile and use it as a
template to guide a router.
There's videos available at the site.
Seems like a LOT of trouble to go through. <G> It would seem that if
you spent the same time it took to make just one pattern practicing, you
could master the skill. Coping gets easier and easier each time you do it.
Might be useful if you only have a couple profiles. For a pro who's
doing a bunch, you'll run out of the plaster.
Another option for coping is the Collins coping foot for a jigsaw.
On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 14:01:47 -0600, Chris Friesen
THAT is a useful tool!
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
- By the time I set up all that stuff, I'll have cut 3 or 3 moldings
- a coping saw.
What if you were the trim guy for a builder who used a specific
baseboard 95% of the time? Assuming the template could handle the
wear and tear of hundreds of router passes, wouldn't it save time in
the long run to spend 20 minutes up front making the template? (I'm
not defending it...just asking!)
The video addresses survivability during repeated use, too: they suggest
making the first cut from the molded piece in plexiglass, then using *that* as
the template for subsequent cuts in wood.
Looks like their market is high-volume professional trim carpenters, and
DIYers who lack either the dexterity or the confidence to make coped cuts.
I'm not going to be buying one. But it's a clever idea, and I wish I'd thought
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
on 9/5/2007 4:18 PM DerbyDad03 said the following:
I can cut a piece of baseboard, or a piece of plain crown molding in
less than a minute, using a miter saw (powered or hand sawn) in less
than a minute. Intricate crown molding is best beveled cut. I did work
for a GC installing base molding throughout the house. Only one end of a
base molding needs coping.
on 9/5/2007 4:45 PM Doug Miller said the following:
Nope. The guy that taught me ran a piece of molding through the miter
saw, and then with the edge of a carpenters pencil, marked the edge of
the miter for better visibility, and use the coping saw angled a little
back to saw the molding, so only the face made contact with the other
molding's face. Piece of cake!
Text on website says "guaranteed to save ... hours on every job."
Video says "... but we recommend that you leave the template overnight so that
it cures completely."
Just how long do they think it takes to cut a coped joint by hand, anyway? I
can cut and fit an awful lot of coped joints in the time it takes that sucker
to cure overnight...
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
You'd still have to mount the piece in the jig, pick up the router, route
and touch up the finished product (1/4" radius will not make a tight fit on
For $122, I'd say it's hardly worth the trouble.
By the time the plaster dries, I will have the house done.
Plus, how do you deal with corners where the piece being coped
to is not plumb? It is a good idea and probably has some
uses, but it will never take off in the real world. Takes way
too long to set up, and coping is not hard at all. Plus it
will only work in ideal conditions (i.e; no out of plumb
situations, corners square, etc.). The way that I do
baseboard would require two molds, one for each end, because I
do different configurations differently. I also cannot see
how it would be easy to measure to the point you are coping,
so you would have to cope, then measure, then cut the other
end (at least it seems that way).
I agree that the Coper won't be handling irregular corners.
I also wonder about the router-bit tearing woods, like oak, as you
exit the pass.
THE trick in coping by hand is the right TPI on the blade, and the
tension on the fresh/sharp coping blade.
Also, a comfortable, but solid, way to hold to work really helps.
For MDF (paintable) stock, who cares, a little latex caulking will
hide anything. For real wood, fancy baseboard, the Coper simply will
not cut the smaller inside radii OR the mustard.
I DO see a place for the Coper, just not in my type of work. Spiffy
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