Control arm bushing

Welp..... first I sent to my regular mechanic who said boot was torn, but bushing was OK. I saw the torn bushing while on the lift and looked around and specifically asked about bushings because I was hearing metal moving when making sharp turns. Naturally it was turning smooth for him - and never made any unusual noises since then.
He doesn't sell tires and couldn't refer anyone. So next, I went to a tire dealer bought 2 tires and alignment. He said same thing - boot torn. Bushings and all other suspension parts OK. I specifically told him to look for any repairs needed. This is the place that didn't get the pull out of the steering and I ended up taking it back to re-do it. Was straight after doing 2nd time.
Last week, I bought 2 rear tires at a different dealer and had them check front end. I picked it up after the shop closed and could not see it on the rack. Mechanic said toe was way in, past specs. Needed alignment but must get cracked control arm bushing fixed first. I had not told them any stories so I could get it fresh from them.
So here I am today. Car runs straight - no drifting to one side and no brakes pulling. All three of these shops are decent places. But I need to know if anything needs to be fixed before I ruin some new tires.
Any wise ideas? I'll dig up the alignment numbers and post.
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Corrections..... I forgot some stuff.... just throw that first post in the can.....
in message Welp..... first I sent to my regular mechanic who said boot was torn, but bushing was OK. I saw the torn bushing while on the lift and looked around and specifically asked about bushings because I was hearing metal moving when making sharp turns. Naturally it was turning smooth for him - and never made any unusual noises since then.
He doesn't sell tires and couldn't refer anyone. So next, I went to a tire dealer ** DID NOT buy 2 tires, but DID GET alignment. He said same thing - boot torn. Bushings and all other suspension parts OK. I specifically told him to look for any repairs needed. This is the place that didn't get the pull out of the steering and I ended up taking it back to re-do it. Still pulled, and they said it was the tire -- possibly band separated. They didn't have my first tire choice so I went to another dealer and got 2 front tires. No time for alignment that time but car ran straight with no drifting.
A few days later, I went back and bought 2 rear tires. Then had them check everything underneath. I picked it up after the shop closed and could not see it on the rack. Mechanic said toe was way in, past specs. Needed alignment but must get cracked control arm bushing fixed first. I had not told them any stories so I could get it fresh from them.
So here I am today. Car runs straight - no drifting to one side and no brakes pulling. All three of these shops are decent places. But I need to know if anything needs to be fixed before I ruin some new tires.
Any wise ideas? I'll dig up the alignment numbers and post.
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On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 16:04:03 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"
Too late. I already read it. No time to read the correct one.

This was the same in the first post. Do you mean torn boot? It's hard to tear a bushing.

Don 't worry about it until it gets worse. Then you and they will be able to find it. it could take years.
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but bushing was OK. I saw the torn bushing while

because I was hearing metal moving when making sharp turns. Naturally it was turning smooth for him - and never made any unusual noises since then.

a tire dealer ** DID NOT buy 2 tires, but DID GET alignment. He said same thing - boot torn. Bushings and all other suspension parts OK. I specifically told him to look for any repairs needed. This is the place that didn't get the pull out of the steering and I ended up taking it back to re-do it. Still pulled, and they said it was the tire -- possibly band separated. They didn't have my first tire choice so I went to another dealer and got 2 front tires. No time for alignment that time but car ran straight with no drifting.

check everything underneath. I picked it up after the shop closed and could not see it on the rack. Mechanic said toe was way in, past specs. Needed alignment but must get cracked control arm bushing fixed first. I had not told them any stories so I could get it fresh from them.

no brakes pulling. All three of these shops are decent places. But I need to know if anything needs to be fixed before I ruin some new tires.

A very practical feller! I tried making the front in clink or clank, but still quiet as long as there is a lot of traffic noise, or the radio is up full blast. Or when the lovely wife is riding along in a story-telling mood -- these are always really, really short trips as much as possible.
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On Mon, 26 Oct 2015 16:35:50 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

In the "old days" you knew something was worn out because the vehicle shook at high speed. Now some of the shops try to sell you new bushings purely on cosmetic reasons. So what if it's "cracked", what does that even mean? Just some radial stress cracks but the underlying rubber is still all in one piece or are chunks falling out of the bushing? If it's not shaking at high speeds, not pulling, especially when you hard brake from high speeds, not wearing tires funny,.. then what's the problem?
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torn, but bushing was OK. I saw the torn bushing while

bushings because I was hearing metal moving when making sharp turns. Naturally it was turning smooth for him - and never made any unusual noises since then.

to a tire dealer ** DID NOT buy 2 tires, but DID GET alignment. He said same thing - boot torn. Bushings and all other suspension parts OK. I specifically told him to look for any repairs needed. This is the place that didn't get the pull out of the steering and I ended up taking it back to re-do it. Still pulled, and they said it was the tire -- possibly band separated. They didn't have my first tire choice so I went to another dealer and got 2 front tires. No time for alignment that time but car ran straight with no drifting.

them check everything underneath. I picked it up after the shop closed and could not see it on the rack. Mechanic said toe was way in, past specs. Needed alignment but must get cracked control arm bushing fixed first. I had not told them any stories so I could get it fresh from them.

and no brakes pulling. All three of these shops are decent places. But I need to know if anything needs to be fixed before I ruin some new tires.

be

but still quiet as long as there is a lot of traffic noise, or the radio is up full blast. Or when the lovely wife is riding along in a story-telling mood -- these are always really, really short trips as much as possible.

Agree with all that. I'm not noticing anything. Tires are too new to see any wear.
Here are the alignment numbers
June 2015 Before Alignment
http://oi59.tinypic.com/rcmp84.jpg
June 2015 After Alignment and 2 new tires installed
http://oi59.tinypic.com/r762wy.jpg
Oct 2015 Alignment Check (not adjusted) - at different shop
Camber: Left 0.4; Right -0.4; Specs -0.3 to 0.8 Caster: Left 3.5; Right 4.0; Specs 2.0 to 6.0; To: Left -0.43; Right -0.34; Specs -0.10 to 0.16
Cross Camber: 0.9; Specs -0.4 to 0.4 Cross Caster: -0.4; Specs -0.4 to 0.4 Total Toe: -0.77; Specs -0.19 to 0.31
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On Mon, 2 Nov 2015 10:26:22 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

If the first 2 are the same guy, I'd say he was likely accurate and he did a bang-up job of the alignment - and unless you hit some really rough roads with that beast, the last guy is trying to sell you.
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torn, but bushing was OK. I saw the torn bushing while

It's

bushings because I was hearing metal moving when making sharp turns. Naturally it was turning smooth for him - and never made any unusual noises since then.

went to a tire dealer ** DID NOT buy 2 tires, but DID GET alignment. He said same thing - boot torn. Bushings and all other suspension parts OK. I specifically told him to look for any repairs needed. This is the place that didn't get the pull out of the steering and I ended up taking it back to re-do it. Still pulled, and they said it was the tire -- possibly band separated. They didn't have my first tire choice so I went to another dealer and got 2 front tires. No time for alignment that time but car ran straight with no drifting.

had them check everything underneath. I picked it up after the shop closed and could not see it on the rack. Mechanic said toe was way in, past specs. Needed alignment but must get cracked control arm bushing fixed first. I had not told them any stories so I could get it fresh from them.

side and no brakes pulling. All three of these shops are decent places. But I need to know if anything needs to be fixed before I ruin some new tires.

will be

clank, but still quiet as long as there is a lot of traffic noise, or the radio is up full blast. Or when the lovely wife is riding along in a story-telling mood -- these are always really, really short trips as much as possible.

vehicle

what

out

to see any wear.

Yes, first 2 were the same guy. I'll take it back to him to check - typically they guarantee alignment for a year.
Roads have been smooth and have not hit pot holes or anything else rough.
If total toe is -0.77, other than mechanic checking it, is there a way I can check it? It doesn't pull or drift.
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On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 08:18:26 -0800, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

You can measure from the outer rib of the tread on the left to the same point on the right, both at thw front and the back od the tire and calculate the difference, but that is hard to do when the center of the wheel lines up with the frame. Another way is with 2 framing squares. Set them up on a snooth patch of pavement with the beams against the tires and the arms on the ground, then measure across the beams with a tape measure, both at the front and the rear.
It should be really obvious. After alighnment you had 30 thou toe in. Before the alignment you had a quarter inch toe out, and now this clown is saying you have over 3/4 inch of toe out. The spec of 190 thou out to 310 in is extremely wide. My spec is 1/8 in to 1/4 out, with preferred setting about 1/16" toe out Toe out with steering linkage ahead of the ball joints, toe in with it behind the linkage, as a general rule of thumb - but as close to neutral (straight) as possible.
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Toe out with steering linkage ahead of the ball joints, toe in with
'the linkage behind the ball joints' getting picky I know but this must be what you meant clare?
it behind the linkage,

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On Tue, 3 Nov 2015 19:29:12 -0500, "Phil Kangas"

I don't get your confusion. Steering linkage ahead of the ball joints/steering pivot point, or behind.. On twin "I" beam suspensions the linkage is "leading". Also on the later IFS vehicles.
If the steering linkage is behind the ball joints, like most front drive rack and pinion steering vehicles it is the other way around..
But I did have it backwards - so the ranger should be just slightly toed IN by the "rule of thumb"
But that rule of thumb was also based on RWD vehicles - front drive could make a difference? It all has to do with the tendancy of a RWD front wheels to attempt to toe out on their own when rolling forward, and having the slack(if any) in the steering lankage taken up (in tension) letting the steering get closer to dead ahead..
In front wheel drive it would depend on other steering geometry whether the wheels tend to pull in or out under accelleration. (positive or negative scrub radius come into play)
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<clare> wrote in message

"Phil Kangas"

I agree with you completely. It's just a 'freudian slip' on your part. Linkage ahead of the ball joints is the same as ball joints behind the linkage. Same thing, eih? heh heh ... ;>)} pdk

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suspensions

Why I oughta....

to

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On Wed, 4 Nov 2015 10:40:40 -0500, "Phil Kangas"

Yeah- I guess i got my mords wixed up.
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