Condenser Fan replacement CW or CCW which end is it viewed

I have a 25 year old York A/C heat pump and the outdoor unit has a slight vibration. I see that one of the fan blades is cracked. I tried to remove the fan blade from the motor but of course it is rusted on tight. So I will replace both the motor and the fan.
(Please no lectures about how I should replace the entire unit to save money)
The motor is 208/230 Volt 0.5 HP 1075 RPM standard frame 48 motor.
The blade is a 22" diameter 4 square blades. I don't know the pitch.
I see Grainger has the stuff I need, their fans are REVCOR which is even the same brand as the original. They have a 22" diameter REVCOR blade rated for 0.5 HP so that is probably what I need. Grainger has what looks like the blade I need in both CW and CCW style. The original fan I have turns CW when viewed from the top which is also the motor side and also the discharge side.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/condenser-fan-blades/fan-blades-and-propell ers/hvacr/ecatalog/N-d1dZ1z0m9wtZ1z0qiod
How is the CW. vs CCW specified for fans. Is it viewed from the intake side or the discharge side, or from the hub or not hub side or?
If I get a universal reversible motor, then does it really matter which blade I use, can I simply connect the motor so the blade turns the right way?
thanks
Mark
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MarkK wrote:

The air flow sgould be upward. I think if you really want to remove the blade just soak the seized part on the shaft with generous WD40 , let it work it's way a few hours, repeat in needed then bearing puller....

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Tony Hwang wrote the following:

Better than WD-40 is Liquid Wrench. Probably sold at the same place as WD-40, or an auto parts store. Let it sit for a while and try to remove it. If it still won't come off, tap the end of the shaft with a hammer a few times. If that fails, apply heat from a propane torch.
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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willshak wrote:

Better than WD-40 or Liquid Wrench is PB Blaster. Squirt some on it, repeat whenever you remember, and come back the next day to remove it. You might still have to tap it with something.
If that doesn't work, try the heat/cool approach with a torch, just don't heat the shaft long enough to fry the bearings.
Jon
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MarkK wrote:

    The rotation of a motor is viewed by looking at the front of the motor unless otherwise specified.

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The OP asked about the blade!
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Sometimes fans are double set-screwed (one on top of the other).
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MarkK wrote:

Go to the auto parts store and ask for some "frozen bolt lubricant." There are several products that are cheap and work amazingly well on rusted-shut stuff. Less than five bucks (I'll wager a new motor would cost more than that - especially at Grainger's).
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