I'm trying to de-mold my house. The bathroom is over the garage, and I've
been sanding mold off the garage ceiling, which is the subflooring under
the bathroom. There are floor joists that need to be sanded, supporting
How could this be done efficiently? I've been using a sanding block but
it's a lot of work.
I have a Bosch cordless electric drill. If I could find a disc sanding
attachment for that, would that work? I kind of doubt it, because the
batteries maybe don't have enough power to keep on sanding for a long
time. It has a keyless chuck, the bits for it are 1/4" hex, not round.
Would I just have to get a power sander? A small rotating disk of
sandpaper would help a lot, to get into tight spaces. Of course a lot of
these areas have plumbing lines in them so they can be awkward to get to.
With mold on structural members it's recommended to sand it off. Yes of
course I want to avoid water leaks in the future. It's dried up.
So, I don't know what kind of power tool could help me sand it off quickly.
If I got a sanding attachment for my cordless power drill, how long would
a battery run it? Is there a sanding attachment that has a hex-shaped
bit, to fit my drill?
Some other power tool?
Oh, yeah, I wanna turn those mold spores into an aerosol dust and inhale
them. No mask is perfect, and short of a bunny suit and supplied air
respirator, and building a containment zone, some will escape and hang
around. I know 99.9% of household molds are not life-threatening, but
how do you tell? It was probably overkill, but they demolished one mold
infested house near here a couple years ago, and carted the rubble off
to a hazmat landfill.
Kill as many as you can, dry the wood out to make the survivors dormant,
and encapsulate them under a coat of sealer or something.
+1... This is EXACTLY what the fire/water damage restoration pros
do... Isolate the area with plastic sheeting to create containment,
bring in the dehumidifiers (if the area is still wet), then when dry,
scrape the fire/mold/water damage away, then encapsulate whatever
remains with a special paint...
Personal protective gear (Tyvek suits, thick gloves, proper
is a MUST for this work, the pros treat it just like asbestos/lead
so you should too...
On Tue, 8 Feb 2011 20:46:18 -0500 (EST), firstname.lastname@example.org (Graven Water)
It's hard for us to relate to that**.
Nothing will get the wood sanded quickly, except maybe some big heavy
duty belt sander^^ with "very coarse" sand paper, and even that won't
be quick, it will just be quicker than other methods. And you'll be
tired holding it up after 10 minutes.
^^Not an oscillating sander, whose purpose is to make the surface
Maybe an hour? 2 or 3 for a good drill with good batteries. During
which time you'll get next to nothing done. There was a thread here
just a little bit ago -- did you start it? -- about how one coudl only
sand with the edge of a sanding wheel, I guess it's called, and how
the rubber wheel will bend anyhow, and how there is a kick if you get
too close to the center. I too went through the stage of thinking I
coudl do anything with an electric drill and its attachments, but I
wouldn't even try to buff a car wax job with an electric drll anymore
-- am I right, you guys? -- and that's one with a cord, not
And even the 3 or 4 pound drill will feel heavy after 15 minutes and
very heavy after 25.
If you could do this with a drill, I'd recommend buying one with a
cord. Surely the electric outlet isn't far away. But since you'll
never finish with a drill, you don't need to buy one.
Your driill kit probably included some drill bits etc. with hex-shaped
shanks, but I'd give you 20 to 1 odds that you can use round shafts in
your drill too. (Unless it is really a stupid little electric
screwdriver/drill shaped like a flashlight, with no separate handle.)
Does the chuck have three jaws that come together when tightened? If
so, and you tighten it tight, you can use round bits, etcs.
If the wood were not attached to the hosue you could use a planer or,
for edges, a joiner. You should see how powerful they are. 30 times
what your electric drill is, I'm guessing.
How many linear feet do you have to do? I'm figuring at least 24***
on both sides (and the bottom?) You will never get done and to hire
someone, it will take a long time even if he's strong. I think.
***For a bathroom 4 feet wide by 8 feet long, which is I think about
how big my bathroom is, and mine is not big.
Also, I have a feeling the joists aren't normal smoothness, that they
they are rougher than most 2x6's. I was up by the basement ceiling a
few days ago, and something there was rough, but maybe it was somc
scrap wood I used for shelves. If it is rough, it will take longer
How deeply are you supposed to sand? The url you gave later didn't
Why isn't painting or covering with insulating foam good enough?
Nothing is going to get through either of those.
I think it would be in your interest to call Kenneth Hellevang, Ph.D.,
Engineer, NDSU Extension Service on the phone and discuss this with
him. Or maybe first talk to anyone else who answers the phone at the
NDSU Extension Service, or any other state university extension. I'll
bet they say something different, or that they'll admit paint or foam
is just as good.
**I myself had mold on sheetrock in two places. It didnt' bother me
when it was growing and it didn't bother me after I killed it, 15
years ago. I planned to paint over it, but one spot was wet
periodicaly, until last year, and the other was under the workbench
and behind a dresser that held the workbench up. Just too much
trouble. When I put in my new furnace, if I have prop up the work
bench and move the dresser, I'll paint then.
For my natural wood picket fence, I tried bleach diluted according to
the instructions (on the bleach bottle iirc) and severak days later, I
didn't feel it was doing enough. So I ended up using straight bleach.
Of course I didn't have a bathroom above the fence, but I think it
would air out anyhow.
soap and water scrub down, hose down and clean up well. once dry go
over effected area with cloth soaked in bleach, dry well again use
before i did any of this i would fix whatever is leaking so it cant
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