Clarification question - remove problematic Zurn Wilkins 975XL backflow prevention valve

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On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 11:12:40 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:

What good is wrapping the upright pipes when the whole valve section is unwrapped? And whatever R value that wrapping has, it doesn't seem like it could do much.
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On Thu, 11 Aug 2016 08:12:08 -0700, Danny D. wrote:

Thanks to your helpful advice & suggestions, the deed is done!
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:27:56 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

Looks good.
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On Saturday, August 13, 2016 at 8:20:50 AM UTC-4, CRNG wrote:

+1
One of those guys with his butt crack showing would be proud and he'd have charged $200+
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 06:23:16 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:

Thanks for adding me to honorary plumbers-crack membership!
It's a temporary setup (until I look more closely at what's really disabling the back-pressure valve) - which allows me to analyze the valve in my own sweet time without being super frustrated by the leaks.
Speaking of leaks, I had expected a leak when I first turned it on, but it was water tight from the start.
The galvanized pipes are a bit crudded up inside though ...
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:20:44 -0500, CRNG wrote:

Again, I must thank you kind folks because you give me advice in three great ways:
1. You tell me exactly *where* to start (e.g., at the yellow connections). 2. You give me ideas for solutions (e.g., the threaded pipe nipple). 3. That gives me the courage to start the job (I analyze more than most because I'm actually more timid than most of you when initially tackling a repair job).
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 08:32:19 -0700, Oren wrote:

Well, I guess my Aspergers does kick in at times.

Yup. I cleaned the two ball valves out and tried to lubricate them with pool grease, but the grease didn't really do much to make the downstream valve easier to turn (or, maybe shoving grease on the inside ball wasn't the right way to lubricate them?).
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Oren posted for all of us...

Don't forget to take your 500 mg dose of Fukitol. I'm up to 1000 mg.
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 08:58:59 -0700, Bob F wrote:

I did learn a bit, e.g., I put the teflon pipe dope on the threads but I didn't bother with the black 10-mil tape, after asking at the hardware store what it's for.
I also made some unexpected mistakes.
For example, I never could get the downstream pipe joint to open because the entire assembly kept turning underground instead!
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 16:26:39 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

I always use 2 pipe wrenches when working pipes. Not doing so is why novices cause more leaks than they fix.
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 15:25:08 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:

< embarrassed > I didn't think of that. Yes. It probably would have allowed me to crack the nut.
In fact, in further hindsight, I could have cracked one pipe-union nut first, and then, before disconnecting it, cracked the other.
Then I could have done it with the one pipe wrench that I used. (I have more pipe wrenches - I just didn't lug them up the hill.)
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On Sun, 14 Aug 2016 00:57:56 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

What, are you saying there's a way out of using 2 wrenches? Then you're not paying attention. Always use 2 pipe wrenches, even on unions. Believe it or not, an over-tightened or frozen union nut can resist turning enough to where fittings on either side both tighten and loosen. And not necessarily the first fitting from the union. It's happened to me more than once, though it didn't matter because I was junking the old pipe. This advice doesn't matter much, since hardly any DIYer encounters steel pipe anymore.
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On Sat, 13 Aug 2016 22:35:06 -0500, Vic Smith wrote:

Um... that's what I "was" saying. Until I read the rest of the post below.

I apologize. I had not realized you would have used two pipe wrenches even if there were only a single union. Now I understand. I had not understood that before. My mistake.

I see. It does make sense. Thank you for having the patience to clarify.

That makes sense.

Yeah. Disassembly to take stuff apart that will never go back together is always easier than any other job!

I think most of my house is copper, but the outside seems to be galvanized, and my sister's house, which I also maintain, is all galvanized from the sixties. Those pipes have nodules of stuff inside whenever I replace them.
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