Circular saws: Which type to buy? Worm-drive or side-winder?

[Ken Moiarty]

I'm soon to begin constructing a ground level (i.e. 14" above ground) cedar deck off the back of my house, and so right now I'm in the process of determining all that I will need to purchase before I begin, including a few new power tools. For example, the circular saw I have is okay for occasional use but I dread using it for a whole project, so I want to buy myself a considerably better one. Now, aside from value-per-price considerations, what should I look for in shopping for a very-good to high quality circular saw? And in particular, what should I make of "worm-drive" versus the more common, "side-winder", type saws?

A couple of acquaintances of mine praise their worm-drives as being inherently superior in every way to the ordinary (i.e. side-winder) type. But I've noticed that these worm-drive saws are comparatively heavier (which might not be ergonominally advantageous, I don't know). And the position of the handles on these saws just looks (to my minds eye, at least) to be awkward to handle and perhaps not intended for close, precision or finishing work.

Of course, since I haven't actually ever used a worm-drive saw, my untested perceptions of it don't necessarily mean a thing. Hence, I'm posting this message in the hopes someone might 'enlighten' me in this before I come to a decision what to buy. Thanks in advance...

Ken

[ConcreteFinishing&StuccoGuy]

Makita makes a fantastic worm drive saw. The heft or feel is an important aspect of the tool to the end user. You will learn to love and respect it. Avoid any tools made in the USA. Good news is, way things are going not much is being made there due to high defect rates.

-- Troweller^nospam^@canada.com

"worm-drive"

[Joe]

The biggest advantage of the worm gear drive saw is that the blade is on the opposite side of the saw. If you are right handed you can follow a line much better with a worm gear saw. They also make a "sidewinder" saw with the blade on the left side. If you are right handed get a saw with the blade on the left. If you are left handed, get a saw with the blade on the right.

[TP]

Worm drive has the definite power advantage. I have a 20 year old Milwaukee side winder. Nice saw but it will bog down on some cuts. You?ll get accustom to the weight, go worm drive.

[Rod & Betty Jo]

"ConcreteFinishing&StuccoGuy" wrote in message news:d0Qqe.26417$ [e-mail]...

Your not only obnoxious and an obvious troll but inaccurate as well.....While the U.S. imports more than anyone else in the world we also export more than anyone as well.....As the most productive country in the world we simply smile at our less fortunate (ride on our coattails) Northern neighbors.

Saw wise I vote for my Mag Skil wormdrive...in fact I voted twice since the first was lost/stolen

Rod

[calhoun]

Skill77. (worm drive) Been in construction for 25 years. Best hand saw going. Used up my first one about 8 years ago I am now on #2. I also have a direct drive Makita I bought to cut out mitered risers on stringers. (need a left tilt saw and a right tilt saw for this type of work) The worm is superior in handling and power (gear reduction).

[Hopkins]

i happen to like my porter-cable just fine.

[Paul Franklin]

Ken,

You might want to read the review of worm drive saws here:

(click on on corded tools, then tool tests)

It's a few years old, but has lots of good info about the pros/cons.

HTH,

Paul

[CR]

Worm drive. The mag is lighter but more expensive, probably not worth the money for a homeowner. The weight of the saw can actually be an advantage when cutting lumber. Hold the board at an angle and instead of you pushing, the saw uses gravity and just falls through the board. All you have to do is steer the thing in a straight line. I don't know about others, but I can cut much more accurately with a worm drive as opposed to a sidewinder.

Buy one, you won't regret it. Don't forget the carbide blade.

CR

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Nothing to do with which is better, but I recently read that on t he west coast the work drive is more popular while on the east coast the direct drive is. Probably more of a case of what they learned to use early on and the tradition remains.

Never used a worm drive so I have no preference. Being left handed, any circular saw is a PITA to use. One of these day I'll get a left handed model.

[HeatMan]

Simply as an aside, not any of real value to most.

Many years ago, when I was doing HVAC installs, we had the 'opportunity' to work with a certain framing crew. All of our installers were warned not to let them borrow anyone's circular saw. This framing crew would go to a tool outlet and purchase a reconditioned saw. This recon saw might last through half the framing job on a 1500 square foot house. Almost invariably, the recon saw would conk out not long after they boss would leave with the truck to look at the next job and the framers would try to borrow a saw. (this was long before cell phones) The boss would come back and scream obscenities at the crew at the top of his lungs that nothing had been done for 2 to 4 hours. The boss would haul a** to the tool outlet and buy

*another* recon saw. Then it would start all over again. I had a chance to look in the back of the bosses truck once and saw about 10-12 burned out saws...

They never bout a new saw, much less a worm drive saw.

"worm-drive"

[Tom]

Now, aside from value-per-price

First I'll say that I'm partial to left blade saws as I can see the line better without leaning over the saw. I have an old Skil worm drive that I've used for over 20 years and it's a real work horse. I'll use it 90% of the time as opposed to standard circular saws. Last year I bought a Porter Cable 743K and I now find myself grabbing it for all but the heaviest jobs. It has plenty of power, is relatively light weight, has a left handed blade and if you need to use a guide you can just measure 1 1/2" off center in one direction or 5" off center in the other and the blade will run right down the line. I'm sure there are others just as good or maybe better but I've sure been pleased with it.

[John Willis]

On Sun, 12 Jun 2005 06:04:38 GMT, "Joe" scribbled this interesting note:

There is another advantage to the worm drive saw-at least the Skil that I prefer. The handle is more-or-less in line with the blade, meaning there is far less torque from your hand as you move the saw across the cut. With the various circular saws that are most common, (blade on the right, handle on the left, the reverse is the case if you buy the other option) your hand is attempting to force the blade in a circle to the right, or left if you got the other kind. Put the handle in just about the same plane as the blade and there is far less sideways force attempting to distort your cut.

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

[John Willis]

On Sun, 12 Jun 2005 10:34:50 -0400, "HeatMan" scribbled this interesting note:

This has everything to do with the question. It is easy to burn out those cheap saws. A good, heavy duty saw will last decades through all kinds of abuse.

-- John Willis (Remove the Primes before e-mailing me)

[PhotoMan]

"worm-drive"

As long as you're committed to spending money on tools, you should consider a good compound miter saw, and/or radial arm saw. In the long run you'll have much more versatility.

[CR]

Miter saws, and/or radial arm saws are much more versatile? Good for trim and finish work, but I have always found them a little cumbersome when trying to follow a caulk line on a roof or on a deck when trimming off the ends. Maybe I'm not holding them right?

CR

[PhotoMan]

I guess I wasn't very clear with my response. I didn't mean 'instead of' - rather 'in addition to'. When I built my own deck, my miter saw/roller support helped make the cuts much more accurate. I don't really have a preference with circular saws.

[Phil Scott]

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Hey flattracker,,,what are you running? Im running an ATK

600 on the quarter mile dirt ovals, not bad for age 64 no?

Saw wize I have almost a dozen. including a 16" makita miter saw, and porter cable side wider I built a large blade guard onto so it takes a 12" blade. Thats handy.

and a chinese 12" compound sliding miter saw.. 200 bucks..it will come in handy one of these days.

Phil Scott

[Ken Moiarty]

"ConcreteFinishing&StuccoGuy" wrote

I find this hard to believe. As a Canadian living close to the border, I often prefer to shop for products of all kinds in the states, not just because there's almost always a greater selection in the stores there, but also because I can specifically find tools that state "made in the U.S.A.". Of course, this is only my bias and says nothing about the facts related to tool products. But I do know that, in broad terms, North American products in general (whether made in Canada or the U.S., doesn't matter) are made less for quality in favor of affordability; in contrast to say, European manufacturers for example, who make more expensive "high end" products, frequently of exquisite quality. But none of this means that North American made products are not good. Just that they're not usually the very best that money can buy.

No. Manufacturers all over the world are using factories in China to take advantage of the cheap labour there. And products made in China, at least to my mind, seem to have higher defect rates (although I see no reason to doubt that that will change in the future).

Ken

[RicodJour]

Like Festo or Fein? Remember when the Fein triangular blade detail sander was first sold in North America? It was around $600. Nice tool, serious money. Then the Japanese and American companies glommed onto the idea, put out their versions, cut the price by two-thirds and now the Fein is selling for the same price. Nice tools though.

When people bring up the quality of Chinese production, I point to the bicycle factories in Taiwan. You specify the degree of quality, you pay for it, you get it. Same most places.

As far as the choice between saws, if it's your only saw, 60-40 in favor of the sidewinder. Get a higher end DeWalt, Makita or the like.

R