With the forecast of Nov 13 being power cut, it
gets me to thinking. I'm one of the maint guys
at church. Suppose the power goes off, and it's
The building is masonry, with some metal truss,
and flat roof. Roof is flat rubber, think there
is some styrofoam under the rubber. With freezing
and rewarming, there is concern about the wall
paper might be damaged by condensation when it
warms up. But, the big damage is likely to be
the water lines. Old copper, in the ceilings and
along the inside walls.
Ideally, I'd be able to shut off the water at the
meter where it comes in. Use a compressor and
blow out adapter to blow most of the water out
of the lines, and hope for the best. I do have a
small pump, to pump in pink RV antifreeze, but that
would likely take a LOT of pink. Ten gallons or more,
at the very least.
What else should I be thinking, in terms of damage
Will the church be occupied or no? I'm thinking portable heaters e.g.
kerosene although you probably don't want to be in there while they're
running. Unfortunately, you'll probably also get some lingering kero
smell. I'd go ahead and drain the pipes too just in case.
Alternately, what *is* your heat and is it possible to power it up from
a portable generator?
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
You should be able to rent a couple LP "Salamander" type heaters with
thermostats to maintain a reasonable holding temp, and power them with a
small generator like a Honda EU2000, which if you get one of the
available extended run tanks for can let you refuel once a day if even
Yes,that's a good idea. There is some open area in
the gym, I could blast a couple salamanders, with
minimal risk of fire. Put some cinder blocks under
1) such heater can be found
2) can get permission to operate such.
The LP Salamanders require a bit of power, but at least they don't stink
up the place like a kero heater will. I use a little 80k BTU/hr LP
heater in my shop occasionally, it works well and only takes a few Amps
to power the blower and ignitor.
CY:Probably not, during a power cut. I think they generally send
everyone home. We had a day time winter power cut, years ago. They sent
us all home.
I'm thinking portable heaters e.g.
CY: That did come to mind. I'd have to check the BTU, but the church has
7 zones. I think the smaller five are 250,000 BTU per hour input, 80%
efficiency. Fire regulations (insurance) prohibit fuel burning portable
heaters. I think also electric plug in heaters also prohib.
I'd go ahead and drain the pipes too just in case.
CY: And shut off the water heaters, so they don't burn up when power
CY: Natural gas. Two zones have huge 460/3 motors, five are 230/1
volt/phase motors. Might be able to borrow a 230 volt generator, and
wire in. I don't personally have any thing that does 230/1.
Your best bet, safest and simplest may well be to rent an industrial
silenced diesel genset that can provide normal power for the heating
systems, can be connected at one service entrance point and having a big
fuel tank under the trailer mounted generator can be started up and
mostly ignored until it's time to shut it down, fill the tank and return
You won't find many gas generators large enough to run the heating
systems you have, generators large enough will be diesel or gaseous
(LP/Nat.) fueled. A small gas generator can power some salamanders to
provide a minimal level of "keep above freezing or condensation" heat.
FYI, those pivot irrigation systems commonly found in the mid America
food producing states run on 480/3. One offshoot of that is that some
engine driven welders are setup with generators that can provide 480/3
to power those systems when not welding them together.
Of course FEMA has huge warehouses full of nice diesel generators, I've
seen semi loads of FEMA generators passing through here on the way up to
OK when they had the huge ice storm there a few years back.
On Wed, 30 Oct 2013 17:24:47 -0400, Stormin Mormon
If you are worried the grid will go down and you will need power,
buy your insurance NOW. Book the genset and pay for it. Then you have
it if the grid goes down.
But if it is only for less than 48 hours, warm the building up real
good on the 12th and then close the doors and keep them closed. It
will NOT cool off to the danger point unless the exterior temperture
dives WAY below freezing
On 10/30/2013 9:29 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I'm in a rough spot. If I contract for a generator and
the grid stays up, then I'm in a world of looking bad.
Won't be the first time. You're right to check the
forecast a couple days ahead of time. The building is
masonry, and some of the pipes are fastened to the
outside wall (not designed for NYS). They have to keep
the heat over 65 in the winter, or the pipes freeze.
On Thu, 31 Oct 2013 07:35:32 -0400, Stormin Mormon
Don't know why ANYONE in Northern North America would EVER fasten
water pipes to outside masonry walls. Even a 2 or 3 inch standoff
reduces the freaze problem significantly. Or why anyone in that area
would BUILD a non insulated masonry building if it required heating.
It's just a big money pit.
Shop vac needs electric. Fortunately, I do have small
generator. I'd be using a compressor, and blow out
adapter. I've blown out RV / camper, and need to make
a different adaptor to be able to pressurize a hose
bib, other type of thread.
On 11/1/2013 12:32 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Any building with seven zones, an "air storage tank"
will be too small to do much good. Over head water
pipes, four bathrooms, seven sinks, baptistry, outdoor
hose bibs. Would you use five gal storage tank, or 7?
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