Cheap receptacles vs heavy duty

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Hi,
Is there a good opinion about choosing the proper receptacle. When browsing HD there are receptacles which range from 50 cents up to 6 dollars. There are some in between for around $2.00 which state commercial contractor quality. I have replaced my older two prong outlets with the $2.00 ones for equipment such as table lights, computer, TV ect. I am wondering however whether these are also ok for other equipment such as refrigerators or washing machines or should those go on a heavy duty one?
The majority of my wiring in the house is 20amp.
Thanks, SF
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I've used the "50 cent" ones exclusively for every position. No problems. If one seems to get a bit loose from over use, then I just pop in a new one. there's not many places in the house where stuff gets plugged in and out a lot.
--
Steve Barker



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I recommend using the good ones (Spec Grade) whenever you need something with a good push in type terminal where you clamp down on the push in thing with a screw or you need more than two things connected to the outlet (so as to avoid wire nutting). This is because you have only 2 places for wiring on the regular receptacles vs 4 on a spec grade. Do not use the regular push in terminals on any receptacles, under any circumstances.
The other consideration is space. The cheap residential grade outlets (and switches) are slightly smaller, and in a cramped environment, that can sometimes make a difference.
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I guess you get what you pay for. My house was built in 1978 and none have been replaced yet. Not worth saving $1.50 if I'm going to have to replace it in a few years.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Ayup, that's the point. I imagine the "upgrades" to my house were done around 1980ish and *most* of the receps wouldn't hold a plug securely.
nate
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SMF wrote:

_________________________ A good way to save where you can and ensure good service at the same time is determine which outlets will see lots of use - by lots of use I mean stuff gets plugged in and unplugged on an almost daily basis. Countertop and hallway outlets definetely qualify for commercial grade outlets(Remember most codes require GFCI within certain distance of the sink!) Circuits with 10 or more receptacles - go with commercial and use pressure-plate - back insert tighten with side screws.
Receptacles behind furniture or termination points - $1 receptacles okay since the only things plugged in are floor lamps and/or air purifiers - and are never unplugged.
-ChrisCoaster
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wrote:

Assuming the furniture is fixed in place. Do you use superglue for that?

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Thank you all for the responses.
I am concluding that for an item such as a refrigerator or a washing machine which never get unplugged there would be no need to replace with a heavy duty one?
I was wondering if the innards of the outlet (of cheap verses expensive) as to whether they transmit electricity differently, or is the heft to a heavy duty one just for holding plugs in because it's stronger?
Thanks again
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wrote:

First I like spec grade stuff, and I also switched over to decora, they are automaticly upgraded.
You mention something that concerns me, you said you were replacing 2 prong ones, are you verifying you have an equipment ground? Just to be that weird shop teacher, safety first, and only qualified people should work on electrical circuits. ;)
tom @ www.BlankHelp.com
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Humble Tom wrote:

Hmm...at Home Depot at least the decora receptacles appear to have identical guts to the "regular" receptacles. They didn't even carry spec grade decora receptacles.
I recently did something similar to "ChrisCoaster". Kitchen, bathrooms, and garage/shop got spec grade receptacles. Rest of the house got the cheapies.
Chris
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long term better quality is superior. I DONT like fixing things repeatedly...........
better quality has screws to hold wires when tightened
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I've never seen one without screws.
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wrote:

Some of the Quickwire 15 amp receptacles don't have screws.
Steve.
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CJT wrote:

I've taken quite a few out of my house; push-in back wire only. So far I've got most of the basement and first floor the way I want it but have done nothing with the second floor :(
nate
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Nate Nagel posted for all of us...

datz nize
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CJT wrote:

I think you're confusing the regular outlets with screws on the sides and spring barb push in openings in the back with what is being discussed here, spec grade outlets where the screws go into a "loose" nut behind the push in openings. When you tighten the screws on spec grade outlets, the nuts clamp down on the pushed in wires. The screws on the cheaper outlets only hold the wires if you install the wires on the sides of the outlet using the screws. The spec grade ones use the screws for all wires.
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Husky wrote:

Not all are as you describe. There are spec outlets like the Leviton CR15 that are side-wire only. Around here at least they're quite a bit cheaper than the back and side wire ones (ie Leviton 5252) you describe.
Chris
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On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 20:03:45 -0600, Chris Friesen

I just went down to check the left overs I have. I found only switches, but both cooper and leviton say they 'spec grade'. I didn't see anything on the box, but the yokes had the imprint. Sorry these were switches not receptacles.
tom @ www.MedJobSite.com

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Humble Tom wrote:

They do sell ones that at least look like spec grade, but not in contractor packs. If you buy the 10-packs you get the cheap ones. I'm only talking about Lowe's here though as I've started to avoid HD, more hassle than it's worth to go there.
nate
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wrote:

I look for the words on the actual receptacle, plus the failures I see with regular recepatcles is premature cracking around the ground prong. Decora's have a little more meat there for me.
As for lowes verse HD, I prefer Lowes, at this time since it can change, I run into happier Lowes workers than home depot ones.
Just an observation.....
tom
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