Changed one light bulb - now both light bulbs dont work

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On Tuesday, September 17, 2013 12:32:49 PM UTC-4, sam E wrote:
I agree the most likely explanation is the tab on the bottom of the socket being flattened. Evidence for that is it started happening after the husba nd changed the bulbs. Bulbs should be screwed in until they light and then an additional 1/8th turn. Many people use 1/4 or 1/2 turn and flatten the tab. Then trying to make contact they screw the bulb in even tighter and damage the bulb.
Less likely explanations, but I've seen them happen: using an E26 bulb in an E27 socket or vice versa; twisting the socket enough to loosen the conne ction (especially on ceiling fans).
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On 09/17/2013 12:32 PM, sam E wrote:

Yah, I laughed at that too! WTF?
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On 9/17/2013 4:19 PM, Freonman wrote:

Yep, idiot me....should be wattage.
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No, there's no "higher load" issue. Halogen incandescent bulbs are just like standard incandescent bulbs electrically. Both types have a high inrush current until the filament heats up and becomes a high-resistance load. But that heating only takes milliseconds. Switches, dimmers and other controls are "tungsten rated" to handle the inrush current. Normal house wiring doesn't care since it happens so quickly.
Tomsic
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Will try ralphs suggestion tonight.
can not use CFL's in fitting...
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It has to be something mechanical. To prove that. try each halogen bulb in a single socket light fixture. THey should each light up individually. A s an earlier poster ssaid, turn power completely off, and look at the cente r tab at the bottom of each socket, That tab should stick uip enough to co ntact the center bottom of each buld. See if moving the tab in onw wocket causes any motion of the center tab in the other socket. There should not be any motion if the two tabs are not connected mechanically. I'd bet my pension that the two tabs are somehow connected physically, and that is why you are having the interesting problems you are having.
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On Mon, 16 Sep 2013 20:41:41 -0700 (PDT), " snipped-for-privacy@sbcglobal.net"

Sounds reasonable to me.
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Hi,
I have a ceiling fixture that has two bulbs in it. One went out. I replaced it the one that went out, and it worked. I convinced hubby to change the other one as well as I am sure it will go out soon. He did, and then both didnt work. We did a whole series of changing of the lightbulbs, and it appears the lights will only turn on if the original working bulb is in its original spot, and a new one installed. If there is no bulb in the original work position but a new bulb in the non-working position, no light will turn on. If there is only a new bulb in the new position or old position, it wont work. Only one configuration seems to work.
Can someone explain? I am not sure if it makes a difference, but the original bulbs were incandescent, and the new bulbs purchased are the energy-saver halogen.
I can't make sense of it, but I am sure there is a mathematical reason for it.
Thanks for helping.
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My first guess is there is a mechanical problem in the fixture that is pressured by the bulb into working. Remove the pressure and the connection to the other bulb failes.
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base of the device. If an aluminum shell, tighten rivets with a bit of electrical anti corrode grease wiped into shell/rivet junction first. If brass shell, solder rivets. Last resort check hardware store for replacement socket.
--
Mr.E

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