Chances of moving 8x10 shed

I built an 8x10 shed a few years back. 2x4 framing with 1/4" plywood walls. Now that I've installed a pool and done other changes to the yard, I'd wish I had put the shed in on an angle in the corner of the yard. I'm thinking of a way to turn the shed about 45 degrees. It sits very low to the ground now on 6 cinder blocks. I was thinking of jacking it up, sliding some 4x4's under it, hooking a come along to it and my house and trying to slide it along the 4x4's to spin it to the kitty corner angle I want.
what do you think the chances are that this will work. I could screw some 2x4's over the outside to help stiffin it up for the move????
Or I could just leave it as is.
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Steve
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or get 6" pvc pipe , if you do it right it will work, houses are moved every day.
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Can't you just empty everything out, get a load of mates round and just lift and turn it? You could screw some temporary handles into the outside to help with the lift...
Cheers,
ChrisM.

walls.
wish
of
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An 8x10 shed built in the normal fashion may be a trifle heavy for that - several hundred pounds at the least.
Unless you have a _lot_ of mates ;-)
We jacked up a 14x14' shed a while back (sans roof, we had to replace it) using two car jacks and 3x5 sleepers in order to replace the supports, a joist, a ring joist, and install a center beam.
T'was quite easy. Would have been relatively easy to move/turn it. A pickup truck or come-along would have been able to drag it on skids.
I'd sling several 2x4s under the shed to act as skids.
Use a jack to lift each corner in turn to dig out the blocks, and let the shed down onto the 2x4s. Then haul the thing around - depending on circumstances, a come-along might not even be necessary. Using a pull rope (or chain) around the shed ring joist will eliminate any possibility of tearing the floor deck apart.
Reverse the process with the jack to reinstall the blocks.
Rollers (and smooth ground) should be unnecessary with this size shed, presuming that the joists are reasonably well assembled/fastened and you're not fighting too much of a slope.
Two things:     - dig out 4-6" under the blocks and pack in some gravel (ie:      use a chunk of 4x4 to pack it). Will be more stable in the      long run.     - you'll obviously need to relevel the shed. This _may_ include      torquing it somewhat to square it up (ie: binding doors).
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
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What do you mean by the shed ring joist ?

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walls.
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now
come
this sounds like a good idea and a easy move(depending how much stuff is inside it)
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Before you get all wrapped up in technicalities, try a simple lever and fulcrum. 8x10 may not be feasible but I moved a 6x10 packing container from one side of my yard to the other and turned it 180 degrees using nothing but a bar and a few blocks. Yeah, I could only shift it a few inches at a shot by pivoting the bar but I got it there in about a week. I will bet that a lever will at least let you left each end without having to do any jacking.
Harry K
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In alt.home.repair snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (Harry K) wrote:

Take a lesson from the Egyptians and get a few lengths of pipe or round fence posts and roll it there.
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Bruce wrote:

Hi, Or hire a crane. Few minute's job. Tony
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(Harry K) wrote:

Yes, there is always the option of hiring a job done. Most in this forum are of the do-it-yourself persuasion.
Harry K
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On Thu, 27 May 2004 04:32:26 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@nospam.com (Bruce) wrote:

That's exactly how to do it. Start by jacking it up. A automotive floor jack will work fine. You may have to dig a hole for the first place you put the jack or else use a post and raise it at the door opening first. Jack it all the way around and put a cinder block under each corner. Now place your posts or pipes and jack the corners again to remove the blocks and lower it to the pipes. Be sure you have at least one SPARE post or pipe on hand, because as it moves, you want to replace one at a time. Roll it into place, jack each corner and create whatever you want for a foundation.
I'd recomment cleaning it out, disconnecting any wiring if there is any, and nailing (screwing) a brace 2x4 across the doorway.
I moved a small barn once. It was 15' X20' and 17' high. I moved it 34 miles, by loading it on a hay wagon, and bolting it right to the wagon frame. Aside from getting ticketed by the cops (it was too wide and too high to be legal), and having to add more bracing out on the highway because it was leaning, and a flat tire on the wagon, I finally made it home. It only took me one and one half days. I pulled it using a chevy stationwagon, and later also noticed the bumper cracked where the hitch attached. Maximum speed of travel was 10mph, and I could only reach 3mph on a steep hill. (really pissed off other drivers). I unloaded it by jacking it higher than the wagon, removing the wagon, and then lowering it block by block. Oh, I forgot to mention that another tire blew on my own driveway. I just said the hell with the tire and kept pulling.
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Thats pretty funny. My neighbor has a good size workshop that started life as an old single stall garage. he got the garage from an old abandon property. He jacked it off its foundation backed a truck in to it ,built up some bracing and drove off.
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