chainsaw will not start

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Dolmar 5100 1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much) Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer sparkplug has spark starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion
Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload threshold.
The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)
When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside" the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible" dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.
Looking for troubleshooting ideas.
Thanks
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wrote:

Start of by draining it and using fresh gas. Try squirting a little gas mix right in the carb and see if it runs a few seconds. If so you know it is a fuel problem. Check the filter in the tank. Check all the hoses. Clean the carb
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Also pull the plug and clean and regap if needed. Two-stroke motors crud up the plugs quickly.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
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kh fami wrote:

I have one, 70's vintage (Jonsered) that sat for a decade after my father stipped using it. Put some fresh gas in it and it started right up. Then It sat for another 5 years in my garage, took it out and it started right up. Using it now to cut up 6 cord of wood, runs like a champ. It's a 49cc.
--
LSMFT

Simple job, assist the assistant of the physicist.
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kh fami wrote:

Give it a dose of starter fluid in the air intake. If it won't even cough, then I'd attack the electrical system.
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On Sun, 07 Nov 2010 08:06:17 -0800, kh fami wrote:

Clogged carb is 95% problems on small engines like these.
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wrote:

With the air filter removed spray the carb throat, following directions on this product from an automotive supply store.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57
If it fires, but fails to keep running (after several tries) the carb may need to be cleaned.
New fuel is also a first place to start.
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Disassemble, clean, and NEW gas.
Steve
Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
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The gas is bad, smell it, it even smells bad and motors dont start easily on old gas. Now you have that bad gas in the carb. I would drain out what I could and try Starting fluid to get it going, good brands of starting fluid have oil in them. I dont keep any gas over 6 months.
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kh fami wrote:

I have one, 70's vintage (Jonsered) that sat for a decade after my father stipped using it. Put some fresh gas in it and it started right up. Then It sat for another 5 years in my garage, took it out and it started right up. Using it now to cut up 6 cord of wood, runs like a champ. It's a 49cc.
--
LSMFT

Simple job, assist the assistant of the physicist.
  Click to see the full signature.
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I replaced the gas and tried pouring a bit direct into the carb - no go. No fire at all.
Taking to the dealer today.
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wrote:

Please let us know what the solution is/was.
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I'll take a stab at this........ I will guess a new plug would fix the problem
Hank
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I'll take a stab at this........ I will guess a new plug would fix the problem
Hank
It's a given to always have a replacement plug. Sometimes, after flooding, the gas gets up in there, and fouls it until it either dries out, or is dried out with a Bic lighter. I'm with you. New gas, new plug, and let us know.
Steve
Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com
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Rember it had spark, so don't think plug would be the cause. And I replaced the gas with fresh.
Per the dealer -- there is cyclinder damage. They are talking to the Dolmar rep today. I have yet to call.
This is clearly a design or component defect as the saw was bought new in June of 2009 and used through 1 gallon of gas. The dealer noted another saw had been brought in recently with the same issue.
I'm going to call them today.. and insist on :
1) root cause of failure 2) new saw or full refund
I simply cannot accept paying full price for a new saw that with a few hours on it would be subjected to a major overhaul.
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I know I'm talking oranges and apples, but I don't trust many dealers. A guy brought me a Emark 14 hp Kawasaki that wouldn't start. I told him that it was 20 degrees outside and don't work in the cold (I don't have heat in my shop and I do repairs as a paying hobby). He took it to the largest outdoor equipment dealer in central Ohio. He calls me back a week or so later to say they told him that had low compression and his cylinder was scored and he needed a new motor and what would I charge him. I told him to bring it to me and I'll take a look at it because they had it tore down already. I looked at it and the cylinders wasn't scored a bit and looked great. Since he was a previous great customer, I offered to check it out further. I found that they never checked his valve gap and the valves had 0 gap. I re- assembled the motor, lapped in the valves and set the gap. Started first pull. Its been running for at least 2 years.
Hank <~~~cynical old man
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wrote:

+1
Checking the valve gap and setting it is easier than breaking down the engine... I might call it a "third" step in getting the engine to run. Not always though -- usually simpler. than that.
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Not really. In order check the gap on a lot of flat head air cooled engines, you must remove the carb/intake manifold. Also there is no adjustment screw. To adjust them you have to remove the valve and grind a little off, then check and do it again mkaing sure you don't grind off too much.
Hank
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wrote:

Starter spray, at least this one, has lubricants in it so harm is really done in small engines.
"... For year-round use in cars, trucks, lawn mowers, chain saws, marine engines and motorcycles"
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/starting-fluid/57
MSDS is on the link.
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Starter spray, at least this one, has lubricants in it so [NO] harm is

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