You don't say what size saw (inches of bar) and
the tree is not that big doesn't mean anything.
Not that big means less than 16" diameter to me.
Ok. Safety. Keep both hands on the saw at all
times one on the top handle and one on the back
handle (where the throttle trigger is. Of course
you can't start the saw that way so you put the
toe of one foot in the back handle when you pull
Second. Never let go of the handles until the saw
stops and keep other people away. Nothing like
whipping around to look at somebody and cutting
their leg halfway off when you turn around.
Third. Keep the saw from binding. If you saw
down and both ends of the trunk are supported, the
trunk will move down at the saw cut and pinch the
saw, so make sure you have only one support.
Also, look at where the branches support the trunk
and figure out which way it is going to roll, or
put stuff so that it can't roll. Don't push down
hard on the saw, let it do the work. If the saw
starts to slow down pull it up out of the cut. If
you do get a bind, turn the saw off. Then figure
out how to pry the trunk up under the cut so you
can pull the saw out. If the saw starts to fall
out, let it. That chain is sharp and will cut you
if you try to grab it and get the blade.
Fourth. Cut the dam branches away one at a time
and move them out of the way. Watch out for
branches that support the trunk and cut them last.
Fifth. When you have that chainsaw going, it is
the most important thing. You should not give a
shit about the telephone, the wife hollering,
friends arriving, the dog barking,etc until you
shut the saw off and put it on the ground.
Answers. wet and dry don't make any difference.
but green wood cuts easier.
Chainsaws don't kickback unless you cut with the
tip (don't try this until you get a lot of
experience. In fact they don't really kick back
they kick up in the air, that's why you must keep
a hand on the top handle so you can control it.
If you don't cut with the tip, you won't have any
I've never had an accident, came close a couple of
times when I was tired, so if you get tired stop
I'm not the most experienced guy, but like you I was nervous before I
started using a chainsaw and read a lot of posts and read the manual,
etc. I have a small electric polesaw.
One thing you should keep in mind is to use the saw in such a way that
if it DOES kick back, you won't be in the way. IOW, have your head
somewhere other than where the saw could conceivably kick. That will
give you more of a sense of being safe. I personally doubt that a little
wetness in the wood means you can't saw it.
Keep your wits about you and pay full attention to what you are doing at
all times when using a chainsaw. I believe that most chainsaw accidents
happen because the user got careless and wasn't thinking about what they
were doing. Like most other things, you will gain confidence as you do
it. However, don't let that lull you to sleep with complacency.
Excellent advice. What I do is stand to left of the "plane" of the chainsaw
bar. When a kickback happens, the tip of the bar can go up into the air and
toward you. If you are not standing in the vertical path of where the bar
would go if it went straight up, then you are more likely to avoid injury.
Also I wrap my thumbs *under* the bar and handle when holding the chainsaw
and always hold the saw with both hands. Wrapping your thumbs under the
handles, especially your left hand, will protect your left hand from
slipping off the top bar in the event of a "push back". This is when the log
you are cutting closes at the top of the cut and binds the top portion of
the saw chain.
And while cutting, I stand with my legs spread apart for forward and
backward support. (So someone could push me or pull me from behind and I
would not fall forward or backward.) This is for a "pull-in" situation where
the bottom portion of the cut closes in on the chain and the saw then wants
to pull you forward. I don't want to be falling forward onto the chain.
Also I have my own "two foot minimum airspace" behind what I am cutting
rule. If there is a pile of logs to be cut, I remove a log from the pile and
place it so there is nothing but airspace behind that log for two feet. This
protects from accidental "kick-up" where the upper end of the bar
accidentally contacts a piece of wood behind the piece you are cutting and
the bar then flies up into the air. It also protects from a "combination
pull-in - kick-up" situation where the cut closes on the bottom of the
chain, the saw is pulled forward, then contacts a piece of wood behind what
you are cutting, then the bar flies up into the air.
Just understanding what can happen while cutting with a chainsaw (reactive
forces), then standing properly, and holding the saw properly, can go a long
way toward avoiding injury should a kickback happen.
Then advanced cutting is learning how to cut to keep the cut from closing on
the chain, keep logs from rolling over you, keep limbs under tension from
flying up and hitting you, etc. Here is some info on this...
Felling and Bucking Techniques for Woodland Owners...
Lets hope you are right handed. The bar is on the right side of the saw. The
safe usage is to keep the bar as far to the right as you comfortably can.
So, if the saw kicks back it goes over your right shoulder, instead of
through your head.
I've seen guys with the blade right in line with their face. DUMB!!!
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