Chainsaw sharpening

I have read about sharpening chainsaws, and it all runs from simple to "you could put yer eye out, Kid!"

I have a craftsman device that holds the proper angle, but am looking for the manual or download. Husky provided a simple thing that is about one inch cube that lines it up pretty close.

I have seen, and have heard people say that once you get the angle right, it's just a matter of a few strokes. I also need to find that little cube to set the rakers, and make sure they are not too high.

What's the short answer for DIY saw sharpening?

Steve

Reply to
Steve B
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Visit any saw dealer and buy a depth gauge file guide - at most a few bucks - for the rakers.

I've done 10 plus cords for the past 30 or more years and still use a file guide that sets all the angles. Others do a great job free hand.

Real secret? File befoe the chain is dull. Only takes a few strokes then. Takes me about 10 minutes to do a 20" loop. When the saw requires down force to cut it is time (actually past time) to file.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

Forgot to add:

Use a sharp file. I change them often and buy by the dozen from Baileys (baileysonline.com)

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

A few firm strokes on each tooth with a sharp file does it for me. I clamp the blade in my vise, then carefully line the file up with the cut of the tooth, then stroke. Apply pressure with the forward stroke - no pressure on the return stroke, which will just dull the file. Do all the proper alternateing teeth from one side, then do the other teeth from the other side. Do several teeth, then move the chain for access to the next set.

Apply the pressure so as to file the cutting edge of the tooth, not to cut deeper into the tooth. Along the blade rather than into the blade. I believe I choose the side to file from so that the file as I stroke is pushing from the back of the blade towards the tip slightly, rather than the reverse. It tends to chatter if done the reverse way.

Make sure you have the proper size chainsaw file for your chain.

Reply to
Bob F

You might use that for a while- but it becomes a pain & I'll bet you toss it and just eye the angle up after a bit.

Check out a new chain & note how much space between the top of the rakers and teeth when you lay a straight edge across. Maintain that space, more or less. Maybe hit the rakers about every half dozen touch-ups.

The file is the most important part- buy them in bulk and replace often. You probably already have an 'eye' for seeing the angle. Get a good small file for the rakers.

Do it often. Keep a couple or three chains going so you don't waste time sharpening when the sun is shining.

If the saw starts to run one way or the other & the fix isn't obvious drop the chain off at the guy with the machine & start over with the touch-ups.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

You get the right size round file for sharpening chains, 5/32, 9/64 or

13/64. Put the bar in a vice, mark the chain with a scribe or felt marker so you know when you've been all the way around. Then file every other tooth in one angle then every other tooth in the other angle. I just sharpen free style and have good luck. Just maintain the same angle and a couple of file strokes is all it takes. Don't hit nails, barbed wire (embeded in the wood), rocks etc and it lasts a long time.
Reply to
Van Chocstraw

Stihl chainsaw dealers sell a Stihl DVD called "Chain Saw Safety, Operation & Maintenance".

This includes information on properly sharpening a chain.

Reply to
Bill

You'll put your eye out, kid.

Reply to
zimpzampzormp

How do I avoid those things?

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

The short answer is "Dremel tool and the right stone for your chain". I had 2 file and gauge type sharpeners and I will never use them again. I gave the nice one away and I keep the simple one in the box in case I don't have power.

Reply to
gfretwell

Errmmm...time travel? Hasn't worked for me yet :)

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

The ones I have are purpose built for sharpening chain saws and the stem is on the stone. There are 3 sizes so be sure you get the one to go with your chain. They were 2 for $7 at Ace Hardware the last time I bought them I think most rotary tools use the same bits.

Reply to
gfretwell

About a year ago, I saw Dremel stones in a thrift shop for a dime apiece. There were about a dozen. Inch to inch and a quarter long, small diameter. They have a hole in them, but no shaft. I believe they are the same diameter as my file. I will check tomorrow. Does Dremel make a shaft that you move from stone to stone? It would have to be perfectly centered to work right. If not that, I have a big set of carbide burrs, and maybe one of those would be the same diameter. I have talked to a couple of people who had the Dremels, one with a battery operated one, IIRC, and they said they were the cat's meow. I have a Foredom shaft drive that I could use instead of the DeWalt 18.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

Don't you need the guide to set the depth of the stone also?

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

That was a semi-serious joke. I actually had in mind the many times I have hit things embedded withing the wood that are not visible. My favorite one was taking down a snag in a fencerow - visible scars indicated embedded wirres. So I cut 6" above the top one and hit a jacketed bullet. That is one of the reasons I carry several sharp chains. Lot faster to change out a chain than it is to file in the field.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

Errmmm...time travel? Hasn't worked for me yet :)

Harry K

Sorry, he just stated to avoid the rocks, nails, barbed wire, etc, like it was a thing that one would intentionally aim for, and should not.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

I just eyeball the angle and grind until I get a nice clean cup in the tooth. The height of the bump in the back has never been a problem. It seems to wear down about as fast as the hook. That may be from all the sand here.

Reply to
gfretwell

The short answer is: Unless you use the saw professionally and have to sharpen it a lot, just take your chains to a shop where they will sharpen them correctly for a few bucks.

The Oregon micro-chisel chains I use (non-anti kickback "pro" chains and highly recommended if you know how to handle a chainsaw) have a reference line stamped into each cutter link to help you field sharpen without any alignment jig.

Reply to
Pete C.

TY. Will look at my Oregon chains tomorrow.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

It is on most brands of chain. An angle bar stamped on top of the tooth near the back. It also serves (unneeded though) as the point you should quit filing and throw the chain away. It only give s the top angle, on most chains the file should also be held with some "up" angle, usually around 10 degrees.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

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