Chain Saw: Which To Purchase ?

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Micky wrote:

It depends on the tree and what it's next to but usually I do the whole tree . I'm neither as agile or brave as I once was ...
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On 6/18/2016 1:02 AM, Micky wrote:

That usually depends on the location of the tree. In the middle of the forest, just cut and drop. The tree in front of my hose could either go into the house or the wires on the street. That came down in sections.
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So both of you say the same thing. How do you each climb a tall tree to cut it down in sections? I have a 40 foot pine in my front yard that seems to have died, and it could hit my house or my n'bor's if it fell wrong. If not that might hit his fence (and will very likely hit my fence, but that's not a problem becuase I replace parts of that all the time.)
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On 6/18/2016 2:52 PM, Micky wrote:

Did you see my post about finding it easier to write checks at times? That is how I took my tree down. $300
There is climbing equipment that young agile folks can use. He threw a weight tied to a string over a branch. Then he pulled a rope with it. Then he tied himself to the rig and "walked" up the tree with spikes strapped to his legs. That was a skinny guy in his 30s. Older fat guys use a bucket truck.
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says...

Sometimes they get smart if they live long enough. I remember when I was about 10 a man talked me into strapping on some tree climbing spikes and going up a tree that was about 3 feet or more across at the bottom. No rope or any other thing, Just walked up the tree as he was telling me how to do it. Not bad going up, but I did not like comming down. I was probably 50 feet up in the tree when I started down. Last time I tried climbing a tree with spikes on.
Now while I am in good helth at 66 I don't go up extension ladders even though I have one that is about a 22 footer. Not afraid of heights, but from the time I was about 22 and went up the first one, I could not help but think it would come out from under me. Just to show that I am not afraid of heights if I believe in what I am standing on, I did put up a 60 foot ham radio tower by doing all the tower work myself about 10 years ago. I have been up it a few times after that.
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snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net says...

Ment to say 18 instead of 10.
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On 6/18/2016 10:59 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:

Well, the zero and eight keys are often pretty close across the top of the keyboard. No worries.
You meant to say, not ment to say? Sigh. Must be the heat?
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On Sat, 18 Jun 2016 22:59:10 -0400, Ralph Mowery

LOL. I did wonder about that. What kind of guy would talk a 10-year old into doing that.

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On 6/20/2016 5:40 AM, Micky wrote:

Father Treeclimber?
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Yeah, but I like to fantasize, and actually I learned something important from your answer here:

This might explain the difference in estimates I got, $200 vs. $800, maybe because the first guy will climb up and the second one needs a bucket truck, a small one if they exist since the tree is 100 feet from the road.
Even the cheap place wanted 150 to 225 to grind the stump, and I want to plant another tree in the same place or close by, so I guess I need to grind the stump??? Or would some stump remover powder like this one http://www.homedepot.com/p/Spectracide-1-lb-Stump-Remover-HG-66420-4/202097353?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D28O-OutdoorGarden%7c&gclid=CILZm8imts0CFVYdgQod8LcKRw&gclsrc=aw.ds make an 18" diameter stump rot away in a year?
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 05:39:35 -0400, Micky

I googled about powder and it said it took years, and I'd have to keep applying powder every 2 weeks and removing wood, and at my age, I don't want to wait years, so guess I'll pay, but it's interesting that they want as much to remove the stump as to remove the tree. It probably takes more time.
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 05:47:43 -0400, Micky

OTOH, this page says it only takes "several weeks" http://www.familyhandyman.com/landscaping/how-to-remove-a-tree-stump-painlessly/view-all That seems to be even if you don't use his final step, letting kerosene soak in for a couple weeks and then burning.
But the first one says "Often the process of decay can take several years. " http://homeguides.sfgate.com/chemical-stump-remover-work-86241.html
Quite a difference.
Renting a stump grinder is $109.00 4-Hour (Minimum) or $155.00 Per Day, so that's not worth it if they want 150 to 225, although they didn't say how deep they grind.
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On 6/20/2016 5:47 AM, Micky wrote:

As I understand it, dirt and sand and rocks are in roots (the roots grow around the rocks). The roots tend to really destry any kind of mechanism. Saws go dull, stump grinders need a lot of power and carbide teeth, which teeth need to be replaced often.
One time I tried to take out a small (about five inch diameter) tree with a sawzall. Harbor Freight white blades don't last more than a minute or two.
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 08:37:18 -0400, Stormin Mormon

I certainly have a lot of rocks. I find them every time I dig a hole. Part of my yard, maybe not where the tree is, is landfill. Instead of the way it was, the ground gradually sloping toward the stream, it's mostly level, and just past my yard there's a 6' "cliff" into the high-water stream bed. I think it was the builder's own landfill and it came with lots of rocks.
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 08:37:18 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I usually dig until the exposed roots are small enough to be cut with a chisel and a masonry mallet. You do need to sharpen the chisel to a knife edge, and re-sharpen if the roots have any embedded rocks.
You might also use an axe head with a sledge hammer for the roots near the surface where you have enough room to really swing. The biggest problem with this method is removing the axe head after you have completed the cut, because it is still firmly stuck (rooted?) between the two pieces of wood.
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On 6/21/16 11:41 PM, Mike Duffy wrote:

Log splitting wedge would work better and be safer, not to mention saving the life a a good axe-head;-)
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On 6/17/2016 4:55 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

When there is power and gravity involved anyone can get hurt. Getting old just compounds the problem. OTOH with age comes wisdom and you should become more careful.
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I was probably more agile when I was younger, or at least when I was thinner.
I keep losing my balance now, but maybe that's because I've been walking on very uneven surfaces. It must be because it doesn't happen when I walk on flat surfaces, except when there is a twinge from one hip.
And little wounds on my skin never fully go away anymore. I said something to the doctor about not "healing" and he perked up, but in practice it was a bad choice of words and when I explained, he almost scoffed at me. His eyebrows scoffed at me. There's a spot on my wrist, and on my upper arm that just don't turn back to perfect flat skin like every wound used to. And one below my knee, and a spot on my nose t hat isn't really visible if I don't mess with it, but I can go six months without touching it, and it still isn't gone. This is definitely because I'm 69, isn't it?
And I don't know for sure if bones would knit in six weeks like they used to. My aunt broker hip when she was 90 years old, and she healed in 6 weeks, and was walking around normally again, but I gather that is unusual for women -- don't know about men. She lived to 103.
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On 6/20/2016 5:57 AM, Micky wrote:

I've had good success with Nelson's tea tree cream. One grocery near me had it, but no longer. Can be had through Ebay. I've not checked Amazon. A tiny bit of tea tree cream on a bandage over the wound, and I heal much faster.
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On Mon, 20 Jun 2016 08:39:41 -0400, Stormin Mormon

Thanks. By most standards, I've healed. There's no soreness, redness, nothing seeping out. It just doesn't feel just like the surrounding skin (maybe somehow flat but not soft), and in some cases the the skin is higher than next to it. Is it still worth using?
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