Chain Saw: Which To Purchase ?

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Hi,
Want to purchase a "small" chain saw for cutting some light brush around the house.
Probably 20+ years since I've looked at these gadgets.
As I'm a bit on the "elderly" side now, my main requirement is, I think, that it start Very easily and reliably. Also, easy to adjust.
Apparently, Stihl and Husqueva are the big names now. Also Poulan, still, and several others.
What brand do you think would be best for me ? Why ?
Much thanks, Bob
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Bob wrote:

One of the battery powered saws might be more suitable for your purposes . Others may know more about them ... my saws are all gas , but then I live in a clearing out in the woods and heat with a wood burning stove . I have a Poulan , a Stihl , and 2 small older Homelites . Of these I prefer the Stihl for most cutting .
--
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On 6/17/16 6:51 AM, Bob wrote:

If you get a gasser, get one that has some kind of vibration damper; i.e., the handle has a spring/rubber bushing between it and the body of the saw.
I've got some mileage on me now too and I sold my gas saw and got a medium size electric instead. It's powerful enough for routine trimming, clean-up, and downed tree removal.
The extension cord is definitely limiting and a PIA- but it beats the hassle of maintaining a fresh gas can, oil mixing, and emptying the saw and running it dry after its very occasional uses.
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On 6/17/2016 5:51 AM, Bob wrote:

I've had a few of them over the years but never had an Echo. Problems with many of the 2 cycle leaf blowers, weed whackers, hedge trimmers, etc. Service shop told me to take a look at Echo as they are the real deal. 5 year homeowner warranty, pretty much trouble free, great service and parts network should you need it.
Since getting that recommendation I did my own research and spoke with friends who own Echo equipment. Confirmed what the service shop told me.
I now own a leaf blower and weed whacker from Echo and they work fine. Whacker I bought new, the blower was a 6 year old, commercially used top of the line back pack blower.
A friend bought his weed whacker ten years ago and has never had it serviced, changed out the plug one time, and it still starts and runs on the second or third pull without fail.
Recommended to use only premium, no alcohol fuel or, preferably the 50:1 pre-mix fuel that is alcohol free.
I have a 18 year old Homelite saw that has been pretty good but it's getting long in the tooth and stubborn. My next chain saw will definitely be an Echo.
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On Friday, June 17, 2016 at 6:51:39 AM UTC-4, Bob wrote:

If you can reach it with an extension cord, I'd get an electric. I have a gas Stihl, but it's always been a pain in the ass to start. If you use it regularly, it's not a problem. But when you use it only every two years, it's not good. I bought an electric Poulan and am very impressed with it. It's not as large, not as powerful, but it still can easily take down a 16" tree. Plus it's lighter when using it.
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net says...

I don't know if it would power a chain saw, but it might be worthwhile looing into getting an electric saw and then one of the Harbor Freight $ 90 generators. Use the extension cords and if too far for them, then the generator could be fired up. Just run it our of gas when done,and only use the ethanol free fuel in it. Then if the poewr ever goes out in the house you have a small standby generator that uses very little gas for the lights.
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That is what I did. The old gas saw's fuel line rotted. I now have a small electric Poulan, but power it from a Yamaha One KW inverter generator that uses regular gas.
You may not want to spend that much for a generator, but it was worth it to me because of its light weight and low noise. The similar Honda is slightly heavier but is even quieter.
I did not like having to fight with the old gas chain saw, and would not like to fight with a Harbor Freight generator either!
Fred
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2016 07:13:47 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

Absolutely. I use a 100' extension cord and the electric chainsaw always starts.
In the fall, I take out the spare electrons so they don't gum up the armature, and I buy new ones in the spring. I've heard that Electro-Bil will make this unnecessary, but I've also heard it only works to a degree.

You can cut from both sides when you have to. So even an 8" electrric can cut a ??15"?? tree. Something like that.
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Bob presented the following explanation :

I have a Remington pole saw and use it to trim My palm trees. I remove the saw from the pole and use it to cutlumber for My fences and other small projects. I've had it for 10 years now and the say runs well still. The pole cracked so I need a new pole. Small projects like cutting brush does not require a gas fueled saw IMO.
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On 6/17/2016 6:51 AM, Bob wrote:

Light use I would recommend a corded electric. Although I must say, I am not familiar with them or the battery powered ones. Lot of these battery operated tools are great but cost of battery replacement may equal cost of the new tool. I have a low cost gas Poulan Wildthing and it is crap. Worked well for the first 5 hours use then oil pump failed and I had to have it fixed under warranty. Still hard to start and trigger broken and must be tied down to start. My son bought one which also failed on him. May be true of most of the lower cost but big name brands too.
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On 06/17/2016 04:51 AM, Bob wrote:

A corded electric Stihl:
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/mse170/
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On 6/17/2016 6:51 AM, Bob wrote:

If you want gas, they are the most reliable brands and w hat most pros use. If it is light cutting, consider an electric. No gas to fuss with, no starting problems.
You may also want to consider a reciprocating saw. They can take down a good sided branch fairly easily. Battery powered are good for portability.
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I dumped my electric chain saw when I got a Sawzall as a gift. Chain was dull anyway. I bought some "pruning" blades for the Sawzall and they cut growing wood just fine. I've cut about 4" thick trees with it, and cut long branches in pieces. But usually the loppers are good for up to 1 1/2" and I've got a couple "pruning" saws that will cut just about anything bigger. All Fiskars. The Sawzall is pretty heavy and clumsy to use.
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On 6/17/2016 3:04 PM, Vic Smith wrote:

Glad you mentioned this. Blades that came with my reciprocating saw were poor for pruning and I had not thought of this. I had also tried it once for quartering a deer and it was worthless. Bone saws also have different type blades.
I worked with a guy that used a circular saw for pruning small branches and it came down on his thigh. He nearly bled to death.
Also had a 75 year old neighbor that was downing a partially fallen tree and it fell on him, killing him.
Another 81 year old neighbor fell off his roof and lost teeth.
Us elderly should be cautious about these things.
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On 6/17/2016 4:13 PM, snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.ca wrote:

I had googled some of these up. One you show is kind of pricey but if I find a low cost one, may buy it. I have a hand pruning saw which can work up to maybe 6 inches. Also have a couple of pole saws.
Had a dead dogwood that I was going to attack last year and figured a couple hours work. Decided to call my tree guy and it took him about 10 minutes with complete removal of everything for about $125. Later in the year a dead poplar tree fell between me and my new neighbor's yard downing several other trees and cutting and branch removal leaving pieces split-able to fire wood only cost $550 which neighbor and I split, and I left him all the firewood.
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On Fri, 17 Jun 2016 16:13:08 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@ccanoemail.ca wrote:

Being curved looks like it woudl be good for a branch on a tree, but for something that can't move up and down it looks terrible. No?
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What things, gravity, power tools or old farts?
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Gordon Shumway wrote:

None of the above ... stupidity . I do a lot of what a lot of people would consider "high risk" activities . Cutting down 50' oak trees , roofing a 6/12 pitch roof alone , disagreeing with my wife (she can shoot ...) and I can say that it's all in the prep . Take care in the setup and check everything twice and you can do it safely .
--
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wrote:

Do you go up near the top and cut pieces off a few feet at a time, or do you cut the whole thing down at once?

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