Pretty much anything like that will work. There are some biodegradable oils
for that use also so the forest does not get contaminated. You can usually
get a gallon of bar oil pretty cheap compared to motor oils though.
In my chainsaw (Homelite), the season of the year wouldn't really effect the
weight of the oil. The oil tank is part of the alum engine casting. In cold
weather, the oil regular bar oil is difficult to pump, however only a minute
of engine operation has the oil warmed up and I'm then able to pump it on to
the chain guide.
I think 30 weight would be too light and wouldn't cling to the bar and
chain. I have tired it in a pinch and it seemed like I would have to pump
oil continiously while sawing.
I am a frugal guy but I won't skimp on the bar oil, knowing what a
replacement bar costs. They wear down fast enough as it is.
I second that. I have never seen anything in any saw manual that
recommends anything but bar/chain oil. Those oils contain anti-sling
ingredients that help the oil stick to the chain. I am sure that the
engineers who design saws and chemists who formulate the bar/chain oil
are much more knowledgeable about what to use than the user. This
discussion raises it's head almost annualy on any forum dealing with
saws, IMO it is nonsensical. Go with what the manual recommends.
That'd be in the ballpark, yes. Tricky bit is that here, we have two
"weights", winter and summer (the summer oil is heavier).
Thing is, I've known people that put vegetable or canola oil in their
saws, for cutting moose and such (and no, I'm not kidding).
On Tue, 28 Oct 2003 18:13:40 -0500, "Michael Baugh"
Apparently, it's different up here in northern NH. Bar and chain oil
has something mixed in with it which makes it a bit more sticky. The
problem to be solved is this: oil is pumped onto the chain as the
chain leaves the top of the bar in the housing. It has to "stick" to
the chain or else it will get flung off at the tip and won't make it
to the bottom of the bar where the work gets done. Bear in mind that
cutting normally takes place on the bottom of the bar before the chain
re-enters the housing and then goes around the sprocket which also
The logging stores up here sell a different mix for winter and summer.
It is a bit lighter in winter and heavier in summer.
Unless you can ge 30 weight oil for less than 75 cents per
quart, then buy Poulan or other bar oil for $2.97 per
If you are getting free 30 weight oil then add some Motor
Honey or STP (thick stuff) and use that. My father in law
had a lot of 30 weight oil and some 20 weight oil which he
gave to me. I added 4-5 ounces of Motor Honey per gallon
and use that for many many cords of wood over many years. I
draw filed the bar about 2 times but never needed to buy a
new bar over a 15 year period. This included a lot of
cutting of dirty wood and cutting into sandy ground, so I
used up several chains sharpening the teeth, but never saw
any adverse effects that could be attributed to what I used
for bar oil. Make sure you grease that roller wheel
frequently (each tank of gas) or cutting session if you use
less than a tank of gas.
Make sure that you sharpen the saw frequently. Many (most?
people) never learn to sharpen the chain and waste huge
amounts of time with a dull chain. The other day while
walking in my subdivision, I saw a guy who had just cut down
a fir or spruce and was cutting a block off the 12-15 inch
diameter end. When I first saw him up ahead about 100 feet,
he had started the cut and when he I was past about 100 feet
he had only managed to saw about 3 inches into the cut.
Heck, I could have given each tooth a quick 2 swipes with a
file and have sawed the block off in the same length of
time. Even if you are a neophyte, you can put the saw blade
in a vise and slowly and carefully file each tooth with a
simple file guide(same number of strokes and same pressure
for each tooth) in less than 15 minutes and have a fast
cutting chain for a cord or so.
Michael Baugh wrote:
I didn't read all the replies, so maybe someone knows what they are talking
Chain oil is "stickier" than motor oil, so it stays in place better. Motor
oil would be a much inferior substitute.
It is certainly cheap enough; why would you want an equivalent?
I don't have a chain saw, but my neighbor had an electric
chainsaw, and was completely unaware of the need for
blade oil. I showed her the reservoir, and it was dry. There
was no indication of what kind was supposed to be there,
and the manual is long since gone.
And indeed, it sounds like it is a question with many opinions
Rather awkward getting the info about not using chain oil on
an electric saw. I wouldn't have thought there was much difference
in the tip speeds.
Simply put, whatever I tell her to put in there, she'll do, but I don't
want to tell her wrong. I was originally thinking about using
Hypoid 90 transmission fluid, but I don't want someone else to
tell her that I told her wrong.
Anybody else got solid info on electric chainsaw bar lube?
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