Ceramic Tile Floor Installation

I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum? Also, if I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the floor and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@cogeco.trash.ca says...

I wouldn't (and didn't). I don't like the idea of a hard tile surface on a softer sub-floor. Tile is enough expense and work to put down, I'd do the additional work to take up the linoleum (or vinyl). Things may get diceier if the flooring is asbestos, but I'd still rip it up (or move).

Dunno, never used it. Tile really doesn't have to be level, only relatively flat. Thinset is good for leveling too and won't run down the drain, though I do make sure it's well covered before using mud around it (getting mud in the works could make for a bad day).
--
Keith

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
krw wrote:

I agree, rip it up and put down cement board or similar if the subfloor has any flex at all. Unless you do use the leveling compound.

The leveling compund will flow into cracks and gaps, it is about the consistency of mustard when it is first mixed. Like Keith said you don't need it if your floor is flat. If you do use it, mix enough to do the whole floor in one batch. It needs a little help to self-level, I used an old broom to spread it out. Also make sure you aren't going to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the connection it could be difficult to fix.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net says...

Shouldn't be too much of a problem. They sell 1/2" extender rings that fit over the waste flange and thick was seals. I use both when I tile (w/hardibacker) under my toilets.
--
Keith

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I don't know what they call it but I have seen the flexible rubber? extenders that go over the horn and fit down the drain pipe. Anyone used one of these instead of the extender rings or thicker seals.
says...

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ultraglide wrote:

They work too. As for the linoleum either rip it up or leave it but in any case put down a cement board. I prefer using a quarter inch hardibacker. I use 1-1/4 inch galvanized roofing nails. Put down ever six inches on the dots, that tile isn't going to move. Even with preparation the tile will eventually work loose from linoleum.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Anyone tried the rubber (I think) rings that go over the toilet horn and fit down into the drain? Do they work?
says...

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've always gotten good advice on the John Bridge Forum for tile work: http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1
Darrell

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.