Ceiling for Basement with Maximum Headroom

Hello- I'm finishing my basement. The distance from the floor to the floor joists is slightly more than 7ft. But, I have some duct work and PVC pipes coming down in some areas. What is the best way / system to maximize headroom ?
I won't use drywall on the ceiling. I was thinking of trying a drop ceiling but am not sure how to shrink-wrap around the ducts etc. Is there a good technique/method out there?
Also, I have been looking at this system but I'm not sure if it'll do what I want:
www.zipupceiling.com
Thoughts?
Thanks, Kevin
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i have dealt with that situation a few times. i have drywalled over the ducts, building soffits out of 2x2's, and then fastening the grid to them. I have also used t & g panelling over the ducts instead of drywall.
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dont drywall a basement cieling, using something easily removeable for service.
pipes valves electrical all those mechanicals need service from time to time.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Use small ceiling tiles instead of large pieces if you use drop ceiling. The large ceiling tile requires more vertical ceiling space to put it in place.
As for ductwork, I saw people arranging ductwork around the perimeter of a room and then use drywall to cover it. This leaves more head room in the middle of the room. I don't know how this impacts the maintenance of the ductwork (I don't have ductwork in my house). I have a feeling that this should be OK because we don't replace ductwork that often, right?
Jay Chan
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I have seen a product call CeilingMax which allows 2 x 4 foot ceiling tiles to be installed without a drop. They are at http://www.ceilingmax.com . I found it at the local Menards.
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

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THANKS JAY! great idea!
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The best headroom and appearance will come with a drywall ceiling.
If you properly plan your layout and pre-wire etc., why would you need to go back into the ceiling more often than on any other floor of the house?
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<If you properly plan your layout and pre-wire etc., why would you need
to go back into the ceiling more often than on any other floor of the house>
Because in homes with basements everything originates there.
Stuff breaks, water and drain lines leak, other rooms get upgraded requiring basement access, sometimes all it takes in a quick look, impossible with a drywalled cieling....
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On 23 Apr 2006 17:31:57 -0700, " snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com"

Cut your drywall, or better yet, cellulose board, into 14.5" wide strips, and fit it between the joists, flush with the bottom, screwing it into 1x3s sistered to the joists. Then paint the entire thing with this "M59" goop: http://www.benjaminmoore.com/wrapper_pg3.asp?L=prod&K=intprods&groupid &&productid1
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I just ran the ceiling up to the edge of a large duct. I painted the duct a light tan. Sure you see it but it is not that offensive and is like some modern building where the ductwork is exposed to be arty I guess.

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I myself was thinking of using the system I see in restaurants. I don't know what it is called, but it is almost like 2x4x8 length material that snaps into some sort of track. Anyone familiar with this product?
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I had some lower ducts, put the suspended cieling as high as possible and let the ducts painted brite whilte hang below the suspended cieling where necessary.
way better than using the lowest duct as the highest cieling point. it is after all a finished basement
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I made strips 1/2" thick, rough saw on face, planed on back about 2-3/4" wide, nailed them on bottom of floor joists with finish nails, planed side to joist, cut 1/2" drywall to fit between and lay on top of strips. Ones with tight access, under heat duct for instance, I fastened with screws as there was not enough room to raise panel and tip it to come out. A person I told about this cut acoustic panels to go between, I may have pict. and message from that person.
Walt Conner
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