I want to caulk the space between the fiberglass tub and the sheetrock.
One side has about a 1/8 inch gap while another side is about 1/4 inch.
I don't want a 1/4 inch of caulking on both sides.
I will be using 100 % silicone.
All I can think about is fill in the gap with a thin piece of sheetrock.
Anything easier ?
> ;2957027']I want to caulk the space between the fiberglass tub and the
I've done more than my fair share of wall tiling around tubs, and you'd
probably be better off taking that drywall down and using a proper tile
backer board like Hardibacker, Wonderboard or Denshield instead.
The reason I'd be reluctant to caulk the gap between your tile backer
and the tub is that you have a fiberglass tub, which isn't nearly as
durable as an enameled steel tub. So, in future, if you ever have to
redo the tiling around your tub, you'll have the problem of removing any
caulk you put in there, and that's likely gonna be hard to do without
damaging the finish on the tub. You don't really need to caulk that gap
either. If your bottom row of tiles hangs down in front of that gap,
and you caulk the joint between the tiles and the tub, water's not gonna
get into that gap.
But, if it were me, and I was dead set on filling the gap between the
tub and tile backer, I'd put masking tape all over the tub and bottom of
the tile backer and then fill that gap with expanding foam. Once that
foam is cured, you can cut it off flush with the tile backer using a
Personally, I think it's better not even to fill that gap. I've tiled
all 21 bathrooms in my apartment block and none of them had that gap
filled with anything. Most of them were done 15 to 20 years ago, and so
if there was a problem associated with not filling that gap, I woulda
seen that problem by now. So far there hasn't been any problem at all
doing it that way.
Is this your first wall tiling job?
On Wednesday, November 7, 2012 5:03:36 PM UTC-6, nestork wrote:
The tub is next to painted sheetrock. Only tile is on the floor.
My daughter asked me about a 1 inch hole in some floor tile.
She is worried it will get bigger.
She has more tile, but it sounds like a major project taking out a piece unless
you had a water saw.
Looking for ideas on that.
Have you seen the "hole"? How old is the tile?
Seems to me that you don't typically get a 1" hole in tile, unless
perhaps a corner of a tile has cracked off or she has very small tiles
and an entire 1" x 1" tile popped out.
I can tell you from experience that once the tiny tiles start poping
off of their mortar bed (assuming that's what she has) it might be the
first sign of a bigger problem. If the mortar bed is deteriorating,
then more and more tile will keep popping off. You either have to
remove tile back to solid mortar - without disturbing the solid mortar
- then fill the area in with plywood and backer board and then put the
tile back on, or do as I did: bite the bullet and take out all of the
old mortar and retile the entire floor with more modern materials.
If it's a cracked corner off of a larger tile, you should be able to
remove the rest of the tile and relplace it, assuming you can find
something that matches.
More info about the type of tile and the type of "hole" would help.
1. Hit tile with hammer. If it doesn't break, hit until it does.
2. Once broken, chisel/pry out the pieces. A cold chisel will work, so will
a screw driver, big wide one preferred.
3. Once tile is out, clean out whatever was holding it there. It may be
thinset (cementatious) or an organic mastic. A wood chisel will work for
mastic, the cold chisel and/or hammer will do thinset.
4. Put in a new tile.
5. Wait a couple of days.
6. Grout new tile. I trust you have or can obtain grout of the correct
Pretty sure that's what I've used more than once for tubs.
I didn't read this except the OP, so this might be worthless.
A 1/8 inch gap is nothing to fill. Run the gun along it and fill it
Then cut the nozzle bigger for the finish bead.
Go big with the bead, not small.
Wet you forming tool for the finish. My favorite is a 3/8" wood
chisel. Whatever works.
After forming the bead, leave the excess alone for a couple hours.
Then look closely for any place the excess wasn't cleanly cut from the
bead. Razor that and just peel the excess off. Done.
Another way that works for small beads of white-on-white is just use
your wettened finger. Different "blended" look, but it might work for
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