Carrier Gas Furnace - Ignition Lights But Nothing Else

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I have a Carrier Gas Furnace Model #58GS050-2
When I turn the thermostat to Auto or Heat and call for heat, the electronic ignition clicks, fires up but then nothing afterwards! I let the pilot stay in this state for 5, 10, 15 minutes but the furnace never kicks in.
Do I have a faulty solenoid? Again, the pilot lights just fine.
Any help would be extremely appreciated.
Happy new year (brrrrrr)
-Izik
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Sounds like you need to call your local *competent* licensed, insured, professionally trained HVAC technician to diagnose and correct the problem.

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Have you checked it?

Ok.
Best advice? Look in the yellow pages for a licenced repair tech. We just cant see it from here.

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How would we know? You sure don't give us much information to work with.
If you get pilot but not furnace, then I'm thinking bad gas valve. You might want to check and see if the gasvalve is getting power.
--
Christopher A. Young
Join Alt-Hvac Moderated
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alt-hack Moderated, I read your stupid-ass reply and now I'm wondering how or who should he call to check to see if he's got power to the gas valve. An electrician? Or did you mean that he should run out to Radio Shack and buy a wiggy so he can check if the gas valve has power? BTW, what if the electrician or his brother-in law tells him that he has no power to the gas valve? Now what?
Hey you alt-hack Moderated dumb-ass!......ever seen a house-fly inside of a 3-wire pilot safety switch before?
Jabs

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call
did
a
Now you gone and done it..........
You was talking his language with the "wiggy" and all, but when you start using tech terms like "3-wire pilot" you just left his ass in the dark!!
You have to tell him that it's that thingy under the burners with the "3" wittle wires going to it, where the flame the looks like a lighter.........that's it!!!
:-)
-- kjpro _-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>_-~-_>
( kjpro @ starband . net ) remove spaces to e-mail
Want it done yesterday? Or done right today, to save money tomorrow!!
_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>_>
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call
did
a
This is Turtle.
What to do now? Stormy can alway just wire around the 3 wire pilot safety and run it direct till he can figure out what is wrong with it. Awwwwww, You don't think it could be something wrong with the 3 wire pilot safety switch do you/ Nawwwww , forget it , Stormy will figure it out and his next area of the search would be , it's got to be something to do with the ductwork being too big and letting too much air throught it and causing this problem. That's it.
TURTLE
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call
did
a
This is Turtle
You know with all that fluttering going on , it would be a lot of horror of the a event going on and might be able to call it a Offending Device as Stormy might say.
Hey Does the horse Fly buzz faster if you have 120 volts on the flipper ?
TURTLE
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On Thu, 1 Jan 2004 09:58:25 -0500, "alt-hvac Moderated"

Hey "I'm thinking guy"...here's a clue for you.
green yellow white
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (IZ) wrote in message

the problem is a dirty flame sensor. find the metal rod that is in the pilot flame and sand it clean.
JB Books
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JB Books wrote:

Hi, When sensor gets rusty, it does not work well. Remove it and gently rub off rust/dirt with fine grade sand paper or emery cloth and reinstall. Furnace works on sequential logic(step by step), really no brainer. 1. Call for heat. 2. Ignite gas as main valve opens. 3. Sense the flame. 4. After buit-in delay, turn on the fan. So seems like you're stuck in the step where it should sense the flame. Can't you read the error code off the control module? My Carrier Weathermatic gives off error code by way of blinking LED on control module. HNY, Tony Tony
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Tony, have you ever worked on a Carrier furnace model the OP has? I did not think so! You description is not even close! Greg
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Greg O wrote:

Oh yeah. Pretty close to what the manual for my gas furnace says. I would suspect that every 85 efficiency gas furnace would have about the same sequence of events. He left out starting the inductor fan and yes the ignition starts and then the gas valve opens but the sequence is pretty damn close. Some of you guys act like it's some kind of black art that nobody but 20 year veterans can figure out. Anybody that is reasonably smart and has mechanical apptitude and reads the manual can figure it out, especially if someone helps him with some of the arcane terminology.
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85 what? Same sequence of events? Does the OP even have an inductor fan (sic) ? Pretty damn close sequence of events for standing pilot, intermittent pilot spark ignition, intermittent pilot HSI, direct spark, direct HSI?
Any reasonably smart person such as yourself would be able to check things to the best of their ability and if then the problem is not apparent, call someone to have the furnace repaired. If not, then feel free to disassemble your car engine by reading the owner's manual when it won't start.
- Robert
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American Mechanical wrote:

Notice I said "mechanical apptitude" and "read the manual." Some reason you didn't want to include that? and an owners's manual is primarily a driver manual, which tells you to go to the dealer any time you have a problem. You need to look at a repair manual. LOL, maybe you thought manual training meant you never had to look in a manual.
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Due to ignorant replies of Mr. Cawthon and unnecessary cross-posting this will be my final reply to his drivel and is seen below.

fan
pilot
things
call
disassemble
Notice you don't have a clue. The main reason I didn't include "mechanical aptitude" and "read the manual" is that neither apply to the OP's problem. I thought it fairly obvious that the point of your post was to state that the sequence of operation for "85 efficiency" gas furnaces was near identical. Obviously I've pointed out many different methods of ignition, therefore many different sequences of operation. I'll reference technical literature when needed, maybe you need to STFU.
- Robert
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furnace
rub
not
This is Turtle.
Well , you and tony are on a wild goose chace of JB's . What your speaking about the flame sencer being the problem. Well you can sand on it all you want and it will do just about as much good as sanding on the tail pipe of your car to help it start. Well there is two other parts that can cause this problem and JB wants use to tell you what they are so he can use it as info to creat trouble here on the newsgroup. We don't give trolls info and have them use it to run their head about how smart they are. I will email the op and discuss it but not to JB or yourself so JB can hear what it is. We don't talk to tolls about info of the systems.
OH, Yea, It's a 58G and not a 58GH if your looking for similar numbers. The 58G is in the old style and 58GH is the new style. Two different horses or dogs.
TURTLE
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TURTLE wrote:

Hi Turtle:
I didn't say anything about a flame sensor, because I don't know whether he has one or what kind of safety features it has, I was just being very general. A flame sensor is listed as one of the parts for my furnace, and I was surprised at how much info there is.
Probably shouldn't say anything, but it yanks my chain the way some people thing that other people can't and shouldn't do anything for themselves. What I can accomplish in 3 hour may be done in an hour or less by someone that is really familiar and has done the same thing over and over. But why not me? I took the carburetor apart on my first Harley and cleaned it because I though it wasn't operating right. Sure I put the choke in backwards (so it was partially choked all the time). But the Harley Dealer didn't catch it when it told him it idled a little rough, but I got at least 50 percent better gas mileage than before. I remember the number, because my average speed and the gas mileage over a 400 mile trip were the same, 50. I asked two brothers on a Matchless and an A.J. about the rough idle, so listened to it for about 20 seconds, immediately knew what the problem was and had the choke back in correctly in about 5 minutes.
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(snip)

(snip)
There's really nothing "wrong" per se with DIY'ing, but all things being equal, I suppose it just matters how much you value your time and mental health. Sure, you'll save yourself money by, instead of spending $100 to have a pro do it in one hour, you spend $50 in parts and spend 3 hours muddling thru the job yourself. For some people (myself included), doing something else for those 2 hours that results in significantly less cussing, wrestling with rusted-on parts, or maybe slicing off a finger with a power tool is well worth the extra 50 bucks.
And paying the extra $50 to a pro in the first place is far less than the X-times more $$$ I'd have to pay the same pro to undo what I screwed up because I didn't know what I was doing or getting into in the first place.
IMO, spending what amounts to a pittance to a pro so I don't find myself having water shooting out a pipe, or being without heat or hot water for an extended period of time, or just plain blowing myself up is well worth it.
AJS
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