Hi, Are you in a hurry? Or I'd hammmer a pick thru the hole if possible, if not I'd sparay penetrating oil and wait for a day of so and try again. And use pinty steel brush to clean out the build up insode. Repeat. Maybe that's all you need.
Dead simple, actually. Remove the line from the master cyl (single in those days), install a "T" and run the line to the controller. The controller sent a varying current to the brakes, propoertional to brake pressure. Trailer end was the same as today. I installed dozens
- possibly hundreds of them over the years.
The holes are there for tiedowns that they used when they transported the car from the factory.
Part of Dealer Prep is to usually remove these brackets. The first car I did I had to remove the tiedowns. The second they weren't there.
For my Saturn L200 there are no brackets and I would have had to drill the bumper.
Hi, Are you in a hurry? Or I'd hammer a pick thru the hole if possible, if not I'd spray penetrating oil and wait for a day or so and try again. And use pointy steel brush to clean out the build up inside. Repeat. Maybe that's all you need.
I think the Toyoat manual was talking about something else. It said it "would lower the braking effectiveness" which to me meant using the hydraulic pressure of the car to apply the brakes of the trailer. Which means running a hydraulic line from the car to the trailer!
Just using the pressure to run the controller a few inches away wouldn't hurt braking effectiveness at all, would it? I assume the line to the controller was bled. .
So now I've changed my mind and it still sounds alarmist by Toyota.
No.
Sounds good. Thanks. I still haven't bought the hitch. One site suggested their sketches were accurate enough to compare how far back the hitch protrudes. I sort of doubt it, but I havent' had time to loook. Maybe I'll decide it doesn't really matter.
Now the hitch on the Lebarons could barely be seen. It had a flat bar that bent up from the center to both sides. And the receiver was rectanuular, with the open space only about 3/4" high (and 2 inches wide). They don't make or sell hitches like that anymore, now they're
1 1/4" square for class I and II. But I'm not going to choose a car based on how invisible the hitch is. :)
They would likely work,after a fashion, but would give a low pedal and would not be a good idea on anti-lock systems. As far as I know it is not legal to use them on current vehicles - DEFINITELY NOT RECOMMENDEED - which is the point of the warning.
No - not alarmist - and it COULD reduce braking efficiency. The hydraulic/electric systems are NOT RECOMMENDED on dual braking systems
- much-less anti-lock. ANd Toyota is not speaking of a different system. I used to be a Toyota Service Manager, back when dual diaganol braking systems, and dual circuit systems in general, first came into use. At the same time, electronic brake controllers became REQUIRED.
wrote
That makes sense. Car makers are not going to spend 2¢ if it is not needed. Considering the few hitches ever installed I don't see them thinking ahead for the owners.
It would be today with all the anti-lock and dual master cylinder. Years ago, it was just cutting, flaring, adding fittings. Well within the abilities of the old shade tree mechanics.
Hmmm, Trailer surge brake is self contained.
Your explanation accounts for why 3 or 5 of the holes they want me to use are already there** and threaded, but not the other two***..
One or two threaded holes on each side, meant for tie down hooks or eyes, and one more on the right side meant for the muffler heat shield.
***That they expect me to drill, just in front of the two that are there and threaded already..I will have to pay more attention the next time I see new cars on a car carrier. It never mattered before how they were tied down.
Still, I think it would be in the hitch companies' interest if they would let people better know that the holes are there in so many cases. When I saw the pictures of the hitches, all but the little one I had before looked like a bear to install.
NEVER cut and flare to install trailer brakes. It was ALWAYS done with the addition of a T at the master cyl or another junction
Surge brake in Canada is quite rare. In USA mabee not as rare - pretty common in Brit-Land.
I don't like surge brakes. No manual control from the drivers seat for different situations. Thinking of it, do they have a bypass so you can back up a hill?
Our 2001 Buick LeSabre had 2 holes with 10mm(1.5) nuts. Other holes had to be drilled. The tap was around $5 at Fleet Farm. A tap is larger than the same bolt size (clearance).
Thanks. The size is probably standard or at least common.., esp since it's metric.
I should say to everyone -- don't take it personally that I put it here -- that I was raised to think 5 dollars, even in today's money, is money, and if I can get by on the cost of one bolt for a dollar or so instead of one tap, for $5, that's what I should do.
My grandparents came from Europe with next to nothing. Based on Ellis Island records, I think my grandmother had the equivalent of 4 dollars in her pocket. My parents lived through the Depression. No one wants to be poor again.
Sure, I own my own house, paid off, and my car, paid off, and $5 is very little compared to what else I spend, but it adds up. AFAIK, no one in my family in America has ever taken charity or benefits meant for poor people, and I hope to keep it that way, even if something goes wrong., like unexpected financial reverses. I plan to pay all my expenses from retirment to death and burial. That's why my house is a small house and my car is a used car, and $4 saved, with compound interest for the next 30 years, is part of that.
Still, if I can't get it with a bolt, with hack saw, grinder, angle grinder, or Dremel curts, I'll go buy a tap** And I realize I can check the threads before I start, not wait until the hitch is half-way on.
**(Probalby more useful than a thread chaser..Thanks, and thanks eveyone.
Some have a manual over-ride (you need to get out of the car to operate it) - could rig an electric over-ride connected to back-up lights.
No. a tap is the same size, within thousanths of an inch, as the "nominal bolt size" The ACTUAL bolt size is generally smaller than the nominal bolt size, because the crest of the thread is slightly rounded (not razor sharp) to fit the root of the thread, which in a Unified National thread or an ANSI thread are also rounded.
The class of fit will affect how much SMALLER the bolt is than the nut.
Smitty Two posted for all of us...
Only if you spot weld it.
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