Car hiitches easy to install!!! except

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On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 23:53:43 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"

with the addition of a T at the master cyl or another junction
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On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 12:03:35 -0700, Smitty Two

Here's one- http://www.hiddenhitch.com/content/fitguides.aspx

If his are where mine were, they are on the top [hidden] end of a frame member. Might be an access plug in the trunk.
Jim
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wrote:

On my PT cruiser, and on may Toyotas, the bolts are originally used to fasten the "tow hooks" to the frame. They are not REALLY tow hooks - they are transport tie-downs, and according to the PDI instructions they are to be REMOVED before delivery to the customer in most cases - leaving the threaded holes available for the hitch manufacturer to make use of.
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wrote:

I went to JCWhitney and they sold Curt and Hidden Hitch, and in the reviews people kept talking about installing the hitch in 30 minutes, and about not having to drill and cleaning out the threads, and gradually I figured it out. I went to a couple hitch sites and one had an FAQ that referred to weldnuts and two had downloadable installation instructions that were explicit. Although in my case, I'm supposed to drill two more holes and snake a square U-bolt into them, in addition to the other two bolts on that side.)

Good idea. I don't think this will be such a problem in this case, but I liked the idea of making my own thread chaser.

In this Toyotal Solara, they're visible from underneath. I didnt' realize how close to the bumper they would be. There is a bigger hole in between the two holes with nuts, and on the right side, in addition to the two threaded holes, I'm supposed to take out one bolt that hold the muffler heat shield, and slide the hitch bracket under the shield. Might have to remove the muffler hanger to do all this. But doesn't look hard.

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wrote:

Whitney's pages hitches are pretty good, but a reseller is not usually going to have all the special info that the manufacturer has

I have a few pdf files but I'm having a hard time figuring out where they came from. Despite what I said a couple lines up, it might be a reseller, but one that deals in hitches, etc.
I have 100 or more tabs open in 7 Firefox windows and FF keeps crashing. When I get it under control, I can see where I got these directions, and I'll post it here.

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There is also curtmfg.com http://www.curtmfg.com/index.cfm?event=hitch.search
and ...
This is the url of one et of instructions, drawings really, but I don't know how to get from this to another car: http://sitepro12.sitepro.com/masterlibrary/12339/installsheet/CM_12339_INS.pdf Wait. I think the CM stands for Curt Manufacturing, which is the tab to the left. Though 2 of my pdf file names started with N, not CM.
Here's a page at hidden hitch which offers instructions. I'm afraid to open any tab I don't need, for fear I'll crash FF again: http://hiddenhitch.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid 00&catID20&part174
This one comes from a site I think I got several drawings from: http://www.hitchpro.com/application/support/instructions/N36336.pdf Yes, these are the ones that start with N. First I found the hitch, and then I clicked on Instructions or Installation, etc.
wrote:

Whitney's pages hitches are pretty good, but a reseller is not usually going to have all the special info that the manufacturer has

I have a few pdf files but I'm having a hard time figuring out where they came from. Despite what I said a couple lines up, it might be a reseller, but one that deals in hitches, etc.
I have 100 or more tabs open in 7 Firefox windows and FF keeps crashing. When I get it under control, I can see where I got these directions, and I'll post it here.

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No. Grinding the thread will probably mess them up on the edges and you risk damaging the nuts. You can readily buy individual taps and do it right. In the time it takes you to grind the grooved, re-align the threads and test it on a nut, you can be back from the auto store or supply house.
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On 8/20/2011 12:33 PM, micky wrote:

I think they consider it cheap insurance against the hack job welded-on hitch installs that used to be common, where some idiot got their tow vehicle upside down and killed themselves, and the widow and her lawyer went after the deep pockets. A couple threaded hardpoints on every frame costs next to nothing to add during the manufacturing process- no different than all the other premade holes for brackets to attach to. Especially true with unit-body cars- a shade-tree hitch install on those can put bolt holes in places where it could cause real problems.
--
aem sends...

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Smitty Two posted for all of us...

Only if you spot weld it.
--
Tekkie

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Some time back a dealer said that the package was so cheap they just included it on every one they ordered. Maybe the factory got that message.
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wrote:

You might be right. By coincidence, I stopped at a yard sale today and it was the first one I've ever been to that had a trailer hitch for sale. Was meant for a truch, however. The guy there said it was to make it easier for dealers to install hitches.

Maybe so.
I think a lot more people would buy hitches, maybe 6% instead of 3% if they knew how easy they are to install. (of course some require drilling, or moving the muffler back and forth a little. And mine requires a little of this, but it will still be a lot easier than I expected.
The trailer hitch for my '84 Lebaron I used on my 88 and 95 also, and it used U-bolts to clam to the "struts" that held the rear bumper, and two holes had to be drilled in the metal part of the bumper, and the plastic trimmed away a little in the middle, but those cars had less of a frame. And the hitch was class I.
This one will be class II.
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wrote:

installed - not the other way around. In many cases the bolt holes are there for transportation tie-down hooks etc.
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That makes sense. Car makers are not going to spend 2 if it is not needed. Considering the few hitches ever installed I don't see them thinking ahead for the owners.
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On Sat, 20 Aug 2011 23:43:59 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"

Your explanation accounts for why 3 or 5 of the holes they want me to use are already there** and threaded, but not the other two***..
One or two threaded holes on each side, meant for tie down hooks or eyes, and one more on the right side meant for the muffler heat shield.
***That they expect me to drill, just in front of the two that are there and threaded already..

I will have to pay more attention the next time I see new cars on a car carrier. It never mattered before how they were tied down.
Still, I think it would be in the hitch companies' interest if they would let people better know that the holes are there in so many cases. When I saw the pictures of the hitches, all but the little one I had before looked like a bear to install.
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micky wrote:

Are you in a hurry? Or I'd hammmer a pick thru the hole if possible, if not I'd sparay penetrating oil and wait for a day of so and try again. And use pinty steel brush to clean out the build up insode. Repeat. Maybe that's all you need.
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The holes are there for tiedowns that they used when they transported the car from the factory.
Part of Dealer Prep is to usually remove these brackets. The first car I did I had to remove the tiedowns. The second they weren't there.
For my Saturn L200 there are no brackets and I would have had to drill the bumper.

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micky wrote:

Are you in a hurry? Or I'd hammer a pick thru the hole if possible, if not I'd spray penetrating oil and wait for a day or so and try again. And use pointy steel brush to clean out the build up inside. Repeat. Maybe that's all you need.
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wrote:

No.

Sounds good. Thanks. I still haven't bought the hitch. One site suggested their sketches were accurate enough to compare how far back the hitch protrudes. I sort of doubt it, but I havent' had time to loook. Maybe I'll decide it doesn't really matter.
Now the hitch on the Lebarons could barely be seen. It had a flat bar that bent up from the center to both sides. And the receiver was rectanuular, with the open space only about 3/4" high (and 2 inches wide). They don't make or sell hitches like that anymore, now they're 1 1/4" square for class I and II. But I'm not going to choose a car based on how invisible the hitch is. :)
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Our 2001 Buick LeSabre had 2 holes with 10mm(1.5) nuts. Other holes had to be drilled. The tap was around $5 at Fleet Farm. A tap is larger than the same bolt size (clearance).
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On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 07:22:04 -0700 (PDT), Bob_Villa

Thanks. The size is probably standard or at least common.., esp since it's metric.
I should say to everyone -- don't take it personally that I put it here -- that I was raised to think 5 dollars, even in today's money, is money, and if I can get by on the cost of one bolt for a dollar or so instead of one tap, for $5, that's what I should do.
My grandparents came from Europe with next to nothing. Based on Ellis Island records, I think my grandmother had the equivalent of 4 dollars in her pocket. My parents lived through the Depression. No one wants to be poor again.
Sure, I own my own house, paid off, and my car, paid off, and $5 is very little compared to what else I spend, but it adds up. AFAIK, no one in my family in America has ever taken charity or benefits meant for poor people, and I hope to keep it that way, even if something goes wrong., like unexpected financial reverses. I plan to pay all my expenses from retirment to death and burial. That's why my house is a small house and my car is a used car, and $4 saved, with compound interest for the next 30 years, is part of that.
Still, if I can't get it with a bolt, with hack saw, grinder, angle grinder, or Dremel curts, I'll go buy a tap** And I realize I can check the threads before I start, not wait until the hitch is half-way on.
**(Probalby more useful than a thread chaser..
Thanks, and thanks eveyone.
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