Can you run a generator in a basement with the windows open?

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A water storage tank is probably cheaper than a generator.
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OK, then here's the solution. Get a battery backup for the pump. IF you only need it for 5 minutes and a 2k genny can run the pump, a battery backup can certainlyu handle it. End of fuss and stupid ideas. You're beginning to look like a troll and this thread's about to completely turn on you.
ARE you trolling?
: Ok here's the deal. I have another generator, which runs the rest of my : house. Its a honda 2000i, I can't hear it from the house when I run it : in the garage with the door open. I wired it up to a transfer switch : with 6 circuits and it works perfectly. : : Problem is, it does not have 220V. The only thing in my house that : needs that is the well pump. And I dunno about you, but water is the : MOST important thing to me after a day of blackout. : : Hence my original question. I am here getting opinions and will act on : them when this thread is done. I know for sure I can run my 2000i in : the basement and make zero smoke and just a little smell. I just need a : 220V generator. I dont see the big deal about running it for a moment - : after all how long does it take a well pump to provide 100 galons? : : dean :
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The easiest, safest solution is the proper extension cord to the garage.
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IF the garage is detached from the house.
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m Ransley Dec 29, 10:10 pm show options
"Maybe Nick will be along to help you with Cogen. "
Now that's a good one! LOL!
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Cogen saves half the fuel's heating value, which US utilities normally waste. Not so in the rest of the world, nor in the US in the 1930s. Many buildings were heated this way before utilities stole the show. Small cogen is coming back big as natural gas CHP, with plans for Honda engines heating water in 10,000-20,000 UK kitchens.
EU2000 cogen makes sense to me, piping the exhaust into the top of a $200 natural gas water heater, esp. if we can replace mechanical parts when they wear out (a $129 cylinder assembly?) and use a propane or NG conversion kit and a larger oil sump to lengthen the 100 hour oil change interval.
I haven't looked at the EU2000 air intake. Can we put the water heater in a small plastic film room in the basement and depressurize that room with a pipe to the EU2000 air intake? That would help assure that any exhaust gas that leaks from the pipe connection at the bottom of the water heater to the outdoors ends up outdoors, while the heat from the engine ends up in the basement.
Having done MIL-217 and FMECA and telco reliabiility studies, I don't worry much that the inverter will fail quickly. I assume it's well-designed, with electrolytics sized for ripple currents, moderate junction temps, and so on.
When will Mr. Wizzard try plugging his EU2000 into a wall socket? :-)
If we make electricity with fossil fuels, why waste 80% of the heat?
Nick
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Nick its closer to 1/3 heat loss.
Pipe it to the top, no the bottom is better as you have no condensation provisions in your pipeing, it could fill with water ruining the motor. Best is a constant angle down from exaust port.
Depressurise the room, exuast the gas inside the building, a rube mononberg idea. Lets see, insurance would be cancelled and an inspector would deem house uninhabitable. Your idea will kill people. Also a fire hazzard of running a gen inside, but you never heard of leaking carbs, cracked fuel lines, stuck floats, gas fumes, spilt gasolene etc etc etc. Gasolene anything, does not belong inside.
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Your postings might make more sense with more context. If you are talking about "waste heat," burning 1.08 gallons of gasoline with a fuel value of 135K Btu in 4 hours at the 1600 W rated load makes 6.4 kWh (21.8K Btu) of electricity and 113.2K Btu of heat, 100(113.2K/135K) = 84% of the total. We can safely recover almost all of that with an EU2000 in the basement.

I already answered that concern from you. The top is better: warm gases rise and counterflow heat exchangers are more efficient and condensation will not occur until the pipe enters the water heater. It may be time to ignore you now.

Outside the building. Keep up!
Nick
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snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Nick, I think that's one experiment that you should try. With your own generator.
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Tony Wesley wrote:

That works here.
--
Steve Spence
Dir., Green Trust, http://www.green-trust.org
  Click to see the full signature.
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I don't own an EU2000, but I wouldn't hesitate, with a 1 meg resistor.
Nick
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snipped-for-privacy@ece.villanova.edu wrote:

Yes, in the small town where I grew up, most of the downtown was heated by a single steam plant when I was a kid. By the time I was a teenager, the steam plant was gone.
--
derek

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wrote:

Initial cost + running costs / lifespan - disposal price = true cost.
Let me know if that saves you any money.
Leaving the window open sounds like a stupid idea. Warm air rises and goes out the window. Cold air rushes in to replace it. Carbon monoxide generally builds up along the floor and stays there. You could asphyxiate and freeze to death at the same time.
Properly, designed, there's a change it might work. Low RPM, water cooling, plant outside and the right type of fuel might pencil out to something competitive with utility rates, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Ask someone with lots of experience with this sort of thing like that guy from Alaska. Chances are, he has worked out a lot of the bugs.
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I got 5.9 cents/kWh, ignoring interest, and assuming the $899 EU2000 wears out in 10,000 hours with no disposal value. But can we buy a $129 cylinder replacement assembly after 10K hours?

I suggested piping the exhaust out a window, after it passes down through a natural gas water heater in a depressurized basement enclosure.

With almost the same molecular weight, it mixes well with air.

More than a change.
Nick
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Nick you got 5.9 cents kwh on a EU 2000 for producing electricity, Id like to see your numbers. To get 10000 hrs life it needs to run at half load and near 1800 rpm
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You've already seen them. Keep up.

I disagree. How would you prove that? :-)
Nick
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wrote:

Show how you arrived at it. With the rated load for a EU2000 of 1600W, it uses a gallon in 4 hours (1/4 gallon in an hour) Abt 50 cents an hour to produce 1.6 kwh. Now add depreciation.
At 1/4 rated load of 400 W the running time is 15 hours. Abt 13 cents to produce 400 W.
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Nicks numbers are wrong again ol senile nick, if it was that cheap to generate electricity Id buy a thousand hondas and make a fortune selling to industry. I pay .125 kwh soon to be .15kwh. Aint No Way a honda can do it cheaper nik. Re run your numbers nicky, At worst case Id but a honda, convert it to NG and disconnect the utility. it aint gonna happen, nor will 10000 hrs at 3600 rpm. Elkryder is getting only 1000 hrs off a superior water cooled 2 cilinder 3600 rpm Honda, And he junks one a year. Everyone I know says 3600 rpm hondas good for 3-5000 max. As I said run it 50% load 00 rpm and 10000 is doable. Google for your evidence of truth and fact. and quit posting bs
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An Eu 2000 uses 1.1 gal in 4 hrs at 1600w, its even worse than 1gph. If it was remotely possible id think you nick would of had a few running selling juice to everyone by now. Go back to class nick
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Nick we would like to see how you arrived at a operating cost of 5.9cent per kwh for a Honda EU 2000, everyone else arrives with a cost many times that amount. At 4000 hr life, 3600 rpm, 2.25$ a gallon fuel I come up with apx 1.56$ per kwh. Alot different than your Magical dream of 5.9cent kwh number. No you never posted them. Also document a EU 2000 that can even possibly run 10000 hrs at full load-3600 rpm.
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