Can't unjoin iron pipe

I have a faucet that needs to be replaced, but it will not unscrew at all. I vaguely remember a thread a few weeks ago that recommended penetrating oil, followed by heat, followed by more penetrating oil. Does that sound right? Any other suggestions.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I've always heard that approach. I've never in my life been able to unstick a ferrous pipe union, other than by breaking it. Good luck !
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
toller wrote:

-- Tom Horne
"Were not making watches here kid! Never use force, get a bigger hammer!" Henry T. Horne III, Master Plumber and also my father. May God rest his weary soul.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
HorneTD wrote:

Which most likely will result in a collapsed or twisted pipe (BTDT).
Harry K
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Harry K wrote:

galvanized iron joints. If the force is applied gradually the joint will break free without damage. -- Tom Horne
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
HorneTD wrote:

You obviously had the pleasure of never following behind my father. His method of tightening pipe was 'as tight as it will go plus 1/2 turn'.
Harry K
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Harry K wrote:

tighten with an eighteen, loosen with a thirty six. -- Tom Horne
--
--
Tom Horne


Well we aren't no thin blue heroes and yet we aren't no blackguards to.
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
toller posted for all of us... I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

--

Tekkie

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I just had to remove a 1 1/2" galv steel drain stub.
My usual trick did not work:
Very large pipe wrench used to TIGHTEN the joint ~ 1/8 or less; just enough to budge it. Then loosen it.
In this case I had to use a Sawzall to slit the pipe & collapse enough to relieve the thread pressure.
Liquid wrench is good.
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
toller wrote:

to beat on it with a hammer until it broke the grip of the rust.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
John_B wrote:

Or it simply broke... :)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
My experience has been that if you will support the back of the female connection while hammering it pretty hard all the way around several times that will always loosen the threads without damaging anything. Pipe and fittings are ductile enough to slightly expand the outside part and/or shrink the inside part. Don Young

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Don Young wrote:

That's more nearly describing heat, not impact (the expansion part, anyway)... :)
You appear to have missed the smiley on first go. Although it helps on occasion, I've not had universal success with the technique on, for example, buried supply lines.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
There are a lot of "threads" that appear here that could use some "penetrating" oil.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.