can't remove a faucet

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wrote:

Probably shoudl remove the old stuff first when doing that, right?
The stuff I had was about an eigth of an inch in diameter. Should I have squished the overlap together before putting the nut back on.
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mm wrote:

The YouTube video link that Oren posted above pretty much shows the whole process.
He wrote,
"See how to repack the stem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK0YJkkbJ0Q
"
:
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wrote:

It is fixed "good enough". A little water on the outside but not enough to drip.

Good idea, I can try that.
--
Replace you know what by j to email

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On Tue, 07 Jul 2009 12:40:09 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@invalid.com wrote:

Good point about the washer. If I'm in that far replace it while I'm there. (Once in a pinch I made a washer from hobby shop leather (temporary) and replaced it later with the normal rubber washer.)

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re: "and replaced it later"
What! Don't you follow adage that says:
"It's only temporary...unless it works."
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On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 13:27:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Well it worked, temporarily!
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On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 13:27:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Absolutely. After attempting to take apart a carburetor choke, I figured out that it didn't come apart. I had to put it back together with 30 minute epoxee (they didnt' have the quicker stuff then) and it stayed that way for four more years until I junked the car.
Oh yeah, I tried to fix the choke because it stayed closed even when it shouldn't have. On a trip to NY the smoke coming out the exhaust was terrible. So I put the cap of a pen btween the choke-plate and the housing. Just for the trip. But it worked well so it stayed there for 4 years until I junked the car.
With not much choke, I had to start the car two or three times in the winter before it stayed on, but that wasn't bad. A new carburetor was hundreds of dollars.
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