Real table saws, no. When they first came out, sometimes those
itty-bitty 'portable' saws (Basically an upside-down circular saw) had
heavily ribbed stamped steel tops. Never understood how a saw with a
tiny table could be much use for anything bigger than a birdhouse, but
they sure sold a lot of them.
Not ribs like a heat sink, ribs like a pickup truck bed. Perhaps
'corrugations stamped into the field area' would be a better
description. Looked like the table extensions on a modern big saw.
Something to keep the itty-bitty top of the saw halfway flat. My memory
could be faulty- I looked at a few of the things maybe ten years ago,
decided they were toys, and decided to do without till I had room and
money for a real saw. (Got the money now, but no room.) As little
ripping as I do, and no cabinetry, the old reliable method of sawhorses,
straigtedges, and clamps is adequate. I have a chop saw for square ends
on 2x and trim.
Every one that I have ever seen was wood, Plexiglas, or plastic. I have
never seen a steel or aluminum table saw top. Because I have never seen
one, you all must be wrong, and I must be right. Hope this helps you guys
out. Which way did you come in?
Come on over; got two here. Delta brands. One ancient, the other abt 5
years. They still make the steel, I"ve seen it in the stores. It costs more
is all, but it's less likely to suffer from dings etc..
You don't say what type of grime you have and what the saw table is made of,
but the saw table looks like the one I am using today. Mine is cast iron
with a rough milled surface. I use mine for many things because I am short
of table space. Often the top gets a little rust, paint splatters and who
knows what on the surface. With the not-too-smooth milling on the surface,
the stuff really bonds. I have found that a good solvent such as lacquer
thinner will remove the dissolvable materials and a run over with a belt
sander with a 120 grit aluminum oxide belt cleans it up and even smoothes
the milled surface without taking off more than a fraction of a thousandth
inch of iron. Don't use a belt intended for metal grinding as it will be too
aggressive, aluminum oxide is good as it will wear down on iron before it
does any damage.
The hairiest solvent commonly available is methylene chloride. Non-
flammable, volatile, causes cancers in California. Buy it at your
paint store in bodied formulations such as StripEase paint remover.
Follow directions. It will cut old roofing tar/cement easily based on
my experience. The resulting goop will need lots of paper towels
preferably placed in the outdoors trash can ASAP. Buy the smallest
amount you can as the stuff does tend to corrode the metal cans if
some casual moisture is present.
If this sounds too scary, try some of the solvents made by 3M and
found at autobody supply stores. The pros that refinish cars have some
really heavy duty stuff for cleaning prior to paint.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.