Can't lift grime of table saw

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Nooooooo... I was chiming in with the standard PVC dust collection paranoia.
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-Mike-
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Un-whoooshed.
Max
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Sam Takoy wrote:

Time to think outside the smallest room in the house:
1. Propane torch. 2. Sandblasting. 3. Belt sander.
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First of all, I'd use a half or quarter sheet sander with 120grit dry, after scraping off everything as best you can with a putty knife. That should get you down to metal and if the sandpaper comes out clean, the stain won't be passed along to your work, when you use the table.
Another excellent little product is BRAKE PARTS CLEANER spray. It comes in two formula, and I'd try each. This stuff works great for about anything, but I'd use it outdoors. Spray and scrub in with 0000 steel wool, then immediately wipe. It evaporates like crazy and is flammable, so again, work outdoors with nothing sparking.
If you aren't worried about what happens, try some muriatic acid in a tiny area, wiping it off quickly.
--
Nonny

ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated,
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"Nonny" wrote:

Yep.
Top make look like ugly on an ape, but if sandpaper remains clean, so what?

Again Yep, it's my weapon of choice, but only outside.
Has lots of VOCs, be careful.
Lew
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For some things, bathroom cleaner (such as "scrubbing bubbles" brand) seems to work when most other cleaners fail. I don't know if tarry goo is on that list or not.
Sometimes, too, I find a traditional scrub brush (or old toothbrush or such like) is more effective than an abrasive; the bristles tend to get down in the little divots and rough bits of the surface better.
--
Andrew Erickson

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Sam Takoy wrote:

My favorite: napalm.
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wrote:

Tide and white gas, sticks good too like a gel stripper. Where is that Willy P (the igniters are the only munition that made me shake).
Mark
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On 1/1/2010 10:41 AM, Markem wrote:

Firing a 1000m HOB of "Willy P" on a grid intersection saved my ass on many an occasion ... poor man's GPS! :)
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Try using Duct Tape to stick on the surface, it may stick to what you rant to remove. I have used tape to lift lots of those gummy adjesives that solvents dont seem to permanently desolve.
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In

Have you tried just a heat gun and putty knife?
Xylene seems to get about anything IME. Pour it on, let it set, pour some more on, scrape, then use medium steel wool. Most hardware stores/paint stores carry it. Very explosive! Keep good ventilation in mind.
Twayne
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That could be wrong, or even dangerous;
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Christopher A. Young
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Naptha.
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wrote:

Naptha.
Bug and Tar Remover....
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Try TSP. It comes as a powder (like detergent) in a box and is sold in the paint department at Home Depot.

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"Sam Takoy" wrote:

1-800-331-3374
in Nashville, TN
www.kanolabs.com
They have some very interesting degreaser (solvent) products.
Lew
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Fast Orange hand cleaner. I do not like to wear gloves when painting or any other messy job. Fast Orange removes grease, oil paint, lacquer, wood stain etc from my hands. Even after it has dried. Yet it leaves hands feeling good. I bought it at WalMart or NAPA. Don't remember. WW
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I'd get some diatom earth - or Mothers polish and polish it off. Mothers polish at auto shop. Can get red and worst case black polish there. Rubbing compound - something that will absorb this stuff and cart it away.
Martin
Sam Takoy wrote:

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Tar paper is petroleum based. So, your removal solvent will need to be petroleum based. I'd be tempted to haul the saw outdoors. Lay paper towels over the saw top, and soak the paper towels in diesel fuel, or kerosene. Cover the wet towels in aluminum foil, and wait over night. Remove the foil, and see if the grime is any looser.
The other zany thing comes to mind is Easy Off oven cleaner. Which is strongly hydroxide. Sometimes that will change grease to soap, which rinses off more easily.
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Christopher A. Young
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But do remember that Aluminium reacts with strong alkalies just as it does with strong acids.

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