For some things, bathroom cleaner (such as "scrubbing bubbles" brand) seems to work when most other cleaners fail. I don't know if tarry goo is on that list or not.
Sometimes, too, I find a traditional scrub brush (or old toothbrush or such like) is more effective than an abrasive; the bristles tend to get down in the little divots and rough bits of the surface better.
My favorite: napalm.
Try using Duct Tape to stick on the surface, it may stick to what you rant to remove. I have used tape to lift lots of those gummy adjesives that solvents dont seem to permanently desolve.
No you are supposed to soak the whole saw in it while smoking. The flames will reduce the residue (and the saw) to nothing. Then when you wake up in the burn unit, You can think about what new saw you want.
I have used in the past.....gas, kerosene, diesel (works great on getting really thick grease off of your hands), brake cleaner, pumice hand cleaner, a wire cup for an angle grinder, a heat gun and scraper, an automotive or industrial degreaser, or the sandpaper route. Though with the sandpaper route, I would start at 150 grit and on a half sheet sander.
You might want to try penetrating oil and a scotch brite pad as well.
Allen (who is running with scissors and untied shoes after I have put out a grease fire with a big cup of water)
You don't use it by the gallon. You just put a little on a rag, then set the can away from where you are working. Outside, preferably.
And never run with scissors in your hand. You could put yer eye out.
Steve
Naptha.
"Steve B" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.infowest.com:
"a little on a rag" for HIS tablesaw top? it would evaporate before achieving much.
If -I- were trying his task,I'd take the top off and get it hot-tanked and beadblasted,or try to find a bin large enough to cover it in kerosene,for a good,long soak,before attacking with fiber scrub pads.
and you think fires can't start outside? ever hear of static electricity?
You "fearless" guys....hospitals just love you.
(sarcasm on) Great idea on a dry, wintry day (sarcasm off). if you must use something flammable, try kerosene instead.
Naptha.
Bug and Tar Remover....
Yep.
Top make look like ugly on an ape, but if sandpaper remains clean, so what?
Again Yep, it's my weapon of choice, but only outside.
Has lots of VOCs, be careful.
Lew
Try TSP. It comes as a powder (like detergent) in a box and is sold in the paint department at Home Depot.
============================= If brake cleaner doesn't cut it, call KanoLabs:
1-800-331-3374in Nashville, TN
They have some very interesting degreaser (solvent) products.
Lew
Fast Orange hand cleaner. I do not like to wear gloves when painting or any other messy job. Fast Orange removes grease, oil paint, lacquer, wood stain etc from my hands. Even after it has dried. Yet it leaves hands feeling good. I bought it at WalMart or NAPA. Don't remember. WW
I'd get some diatom earth - or Mothers polish and polish it off. Mothers polish at auto shop. Can get red and worst case black polish there. Rubbing compound - something that will absorb this stuff and cart it away.
Mart> Hi,
LOOK OUT BEHIND YOU, JIM!
Tar paper is petroleum based. So, your removal solvent will need to be petroleum based. I'd be tempted to haul the saw outdoors. Lay paper towels over the saw top, and soak the paper towels in diesel fuel, or kerosene. Cover the wet towels in aluminum foil, and wait over night. Remove the foil, and see if the grime is any looser.
The other zany thing comes to mind is Easy Off oven cleaner. Which is strongly hydroxide. Sometimes that will change grease to soap, which rinses off more easily.
Jim Yanik wrote: (snip)
And we have a winner! If OP wants this thing to look showroom-new, and if he can take it apart and be able to put it back together, and he is willing to spend the cash, best solution is to take top down to local metal treating company, and get it tanked/blasted and protectively coated. It has been a while, but I once had a 36" gear, off a crane or something, that I bought at a garage sale. Rusty as hell, caked grease, etc. Took it in there and they handed it back in a couple of days looking like new. Teeth were still square and pretty. Cost about 30 bucks, but that was 10-12 years ago, so probably 50-some now.
(Gear is still sitting at my brother's house, outside, still not rusty. Was gonna make a sundial out of it, but never got around to it.)
-- aem sends...
Leaded? That would explain a lot. (just kidding, just kidding)
Max
And never remove the guard from a table saw. And Radial arm saws are extremely dangerous. And dust explosions have happened in ungrounded dust collection systems And...........................
Max
Tide and white gas, sticks good too like a gel stripper. Where is that Willy P (the igniters are the only munition that made me shake).
Mark
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