Can't lift grime of table saw

Hi,

I'm rehabbing an old craftsman saw which has never been used but sat in a garage for 20+ years. The tar paper had completely rusted into the surfaces. I have cleaned it up substantially but I just can't seem to lift the remaining grime off of it. The funny thing is that the grime seems to move around the saw (for example if I rub it with my finger), but it's just too sticky to come up. Here are two pictures:

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I have tried:

Scotch Brite Steel wool Sand paper

in combinations with:

WD40 Goof off Acetone dishwasher soap baking soda mineral spirits

Nothing works!

Any further ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks!

Sam

Reply to
Sam Takoy
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wire brush

Reply to
hallerb

Formula 409 and Fantastik sometimes do what others can't. Interesting stuff. Oven cleaner? Roofing tar remover, for ladders, tools, etc. Machinists use varieties of degreasers.

A trick the wife showed me, when *nothing* would get deep machine grease out of my hands: Scrub in vegetable oil!!! effingAmazing! Similarly, scrubbing with motor oil, ATF, or some such might help as well.

The wire brush suggestion is not without merit either. Mebbe a spatula, or even a razor blade, or any sharpened sheetmetal or shim stock, so you just have a thin layer left to deal with chemically.

Reply to
Existential Angst

When all else fails lacquer thinner usually works.

Reply to
Nova

To your list I would add:

- Simple Green

- Automotive tar cleaner

- A good citrus-based bicycle chain cleaner

I doubt if a simple household citrus cleaner will do the job, based on what you have done. The chain cleaner is meant to be a soak, then scrub cleaner. Give it a try with a scotchbrite or even a wire brush. The last time I had to clean the gooey preservative off of a new tool table top the bike chain cleaner practically floated it off after a 10-20 minute soak.

Good Luck

RonB

Reply to
RonB

Sam Takoy wrote in news:hhis5d$in5$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal- september.org:

acetone evaporates too fast.try xylene or lacquer thinner. Outside....

Only good for organics.

VERY mild.

try kerosene or charcoal lighter fluid. tar paper is a hydrocarbon product. Kerosene also leaves a rust-preventing waxy film. you may have to use paper towels or cloths soaked in kerosene,give it time to dissolve the gunk,and for the towels to absorb the crud.

don't use it around open flames.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

Gasoline and an effective scrubber.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

Regular ol' gas might be worth a shot.

Reply to
Jules

I can't tell anything from the pictures-- but if your finger 'moves it around' - try a Magic Eraser. [follow the directions- they are to be used dry]

Actually- have you tried all your abrasives dry-- or just with solvents. Sometimes dry is better.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

I've looked at your photos, read what you've tried, and read the suggestions offered - and if none of these things works, I'll suggest that you use the proceeds of the saw's sale toward the purchase of a brand new high-end cabinet saw. :)

Reply to
Morris Dovey

If it moves but doesn't come up, try a razor blade scraper.

There's another cleaner that wasn't in your list, that often works for me; waterless hand cleaner. Lanolin is the old standby, and the imitation-lanolin waterless hand cleaners are OK substitutes. Wipe off with a damp rag afterward.

Reply to
whit3rd

Kerosene. BTDT. Followup with a good degreaser (I used Simple Green) Like someone else mentioned........gasoline. But I think Kerosene is safer.

Max

Reply to
Max

Outdoors for that, though.

Reply to
Charlie Self

Time to think outside the smallest room in the house:

  1. Propane torch.
  2. Sandblasting.
  3. Belt sander.
Reply to
HeyBub

"Max" wrote in news:00b8e52e$0$13113$ snipped-for-privacy@news.astraweb.com:

NEVER use gasoline for a cleaning solvent.TOO risky. a spark could set off the vapors.Don't be stupid.

Reply to
Jim Yanik

news.astraweb.com:

Gasoline AND a propane torch!!!!

Just kidding. Really. I was kidding.

Reply to
RonB

It may be down in the aluminum, which is slightly porous. I'd say just keep trying different solvents.

Don't know if Goof Off or Goo Gone has been mentioned yet.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

I wholeheartedly agree, for city folks ... but go try to sell that to a real farm boy.

:)

Reply to
Swingman

First of all, I'd use a half or quarter sheet sander with 120grit dry, after scraping off everything as best you can with a putty knife. That should get you down to metal and if the sandpaper comes out clean, the stain won't be passed along to your work, when you use the table.

Another excellent little product is BRAKE PARTS CLEANER spray. It comes in two formula, and I'd try each. This stuff works great for about anything, but I'd use it outdoors. Spray and scrub in with 0000 steel wool, then immediately wipe. It evaporates like crazy and is flammable, so again, work outdoors with nothing sparking.

If you aren't worried about what happens, try some muriatic acid in a tiny area, wiping it off quickly.

Reply to
Nonny

Or a mechanic. I usta use gasoline to clean my hands...

Reply to
Leon

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