Can grease fittings be clogged shut?
How does one get them to open up again, especially if it seems they can't be removed or replaced?
I have two zerk fittings on the '69 Honda I'm trying to get to run, and they seem to be clogged, but they have no flat sides and I think they don't unscrew. Can they be clogged and how would I unclog them?
The last time they were greased ( 1)the clutch cable mechanism and 2) the swing arms) was between 1969 and 1972.)
Hi, Fitting is cheap. Just replace it.
Hey is it an AN600?
Anyway, yes the fittings can be clogged, or the joint they are greasing itself can be the problem. There are grease fittings that are meant to be driven or pressed in, but I don't know about your Honda. In 1969 I was more into Dodge Darts, Ford Falcons, an Chevy IIs. Best to check a service manual or with an old Honda mechanic.
If they are the press-in type, you can try grabbing them with a vise grips, then prying up on the vise grips. If they brake off you will have to drill out what's left. You can either replace them with the same type, or possibly tap for a threaded grease fitting.
Yes, dirt & grit can clog them. Using a high pressure grease gun can force the clog thru the fitting.
Bob
They can and they do... Last night I was going thru my Northern tool catalog and saw just what you need... It's at:
I appologize for not doing it as a link... I'm a little on the techno challenged for that... If anyone cares to enlighten me about putting links in to posts I'd be grateful...
Good luck with the fitting.
As others said, the first question answer is "yes". The second is "it varies", depending on what's wrong. More than likely in this case it's simply the age and the grease has dried out and solidified plus quite likely dirt and some corrosion has sealed them shut.
There are actually tools for the purpose, but they're rather pricey for only a couple zerks. While it's possible a high-pressure gun might be able to break them loose, that will also put whatever dirt and dried grease that's in there into the joint which may continue to cause problems on down the road so my recommendation is to take them out and soak them in a solvent to see if they clean up or simply replace them.
I think somebody else noted that since they don't have wrench flats they are almost certainly a press fit, not threaded. You should be able to remove them w/ the vice-grips and some brute force method. Having a gazillion of the suckers on all the farm equipment there're similar cases pretty frequently and I've found a sharp chisel w/ a fairly high taper under the flange can help in stubborn cases to start them moving and if they do break off the left-hand bolt remover tap will make short work of any I've ever had a problem with (of course, w/ non-threaded, the direction isn't of real importance, just that most remover sets are left-handed).
HTH...
HTH...
bremen68 spake thus:
What makes you think it *didn't* come through as a link? It did, no problemo.
Hey, it worked as a link for me, but even if it didn't, you're doing me a favor already. You shouldn't have to baby me too.
I would advise you to keep doing what you're doing.
It does look like just the right tool, but 46 dollars etc, it's going to be my last resort. Now I know this exists for some time where I need more volume or I MUST get it done.
Thanks a lot.
The bike is a CB450.
I was into Pontiac Catalinas then, and a '50 Olds.
But my current friend who is 10 years older than I was into this, at least for a year or two. He bought it used, and when it was 3 years old, he parked it in the garage and never got around to starting it again. Gave it to me this summer. I hope to have it running before it gets cold, but it's going to be close.
Thanks.
More further down the thread.
No flange either. And on top of that, the one for the swing arms is surrounded by a 3mm ring, and beyond that is a 5mm ring that is 1 or 2 mm higher than the center. Might get a little chisel in there but they have protected it like a castle with a moat.
The other one is at an angle although I don't know if that makes a difference.
The bottom line is that I'm going to wait until the bike is running, and then I can take it and the fittings to other people, who will know if it can be torn out and pressed in.
The swing arm only rotates 10 or 20 degrees for each significant bump, less for other bumps, and I think it won't wear out in the first 100 miles.
For the clutch mechanism, I had the cover off and I greased it from the other end, getting part of it, but the round inclined plane probably needs grease. When there is no pressure on it however, it slides very easily, and will probably wear down fairly evenly, so that will wait 100 miles too.
I have the Klymer manual for this particular bike and it doesn't say, but maybe I'll check the Honda site etc. and see if they say or if they sell replacement grease fittings.
Thanks to everyone.
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