We order and received cabinets for our kitchen, and the over the fridge cabinet is 36" wide. Our fridge is 33" wide, but we noticed many fridge widths are 35-3/4" and if we only leave a 36" opening that really reduces the options (unless these wider fridges are designed to work in a 36" wide opening). We have to potential of adding a spacer that would add 2" or so to the opening for the fridge, but kind of torn on what to do.
Does anyone know what the "standard" cabinet opening space for a fridge is these days?
You choose the fridge and make the cabinets to fit. If your space for your fridge is 36 inches, I wouldn't go smaller, as you can go to a larger fridge if/when you change.
fridge is 36 inches, I wouldn't go smaller, as you can go to a larger fridge if/when you change.
Our existing fridge is 33" wide, but we're trying to think about the "future" with the space we leave. We're set for 36" right now but can add a spacer to add an inch or two. I guess it's more a question if the 35-3/4" wide refrigerators can fit and work inside a 36" opening????
Like the size of houses themselves, everything in a house seems to get bigger every year. It seems no one is happy with a traditional size fridge anymore and anything less than a walk-in refrigerator is unacceptable. If you share that feeling, you'll need to visit appliance stores (or most home centers) and measure appliances that meet your needs. Then size the cabinets to fit the fridge you want. Odds are you'll find most fridges adhere to fairly "standard" dimensions.
When I built the cabinets for our kitchen, I made our refrigerator opening
34" x 68". This should accomodate most traditional refrigerators, and is plenty of space to meet our needs now and in the future.
I bought a house about 4 years ago and the refrig space was 36 inches. I wish it was a few inches wider. Wife wanted a doubel door frig. The largest one we could fit in of the brand we wanted was only about a 21 cu/ft. While only me and my wife live here, the house has 4 bed rooms so if a family that size moved in the frig would be limiated. At the other house we had a 25 cu/ft frig and at times it seemed too small for a family of 5.
YOu can always put in a spacer to make it look nice, but it is hard to cut out the cabinets for a larger frig. Go to the store and find out how much space you need for a large frig. and build for that. Usually a couple of inches of cabinets will not be noticed.
I remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago. The old fridge was a nominal
36" two door, which my wife found too narrow and too deep. I juggled the cabinets around rebuilt a couple and adjusted some spacers to add 12 inches into the fridge space so that we could fit a 49" two door built-in fridge.
An easy way to check on fridge and minimum sized cabinet spacings, is to go on-line to the major manufacturers and look up the specifications and installation manuals. They will tell you everything you ever wanted to know.
x 68". This should accomodate most traditional refrigerators, and is plenty of space to meet our needs now and in the future.
You sure on the 34" width? The larger fridges we looked at while at Lowe's were 35-3/4" wide.
We purchased a 3" wide spacer to go with the above fridge cabinet and we planned everything down 2" from original plan so we can cut the spacer to fit at the end when we're done. This should make the opening 38" which I'm happy with. More then enough room for our fridge but the old cabinet space was 37" and we always kept a folding table beside the fridge for more table space when needed.
ing 34" x 68". This should accomodate most traditional refrigerators, and i= s plenty of space to meet our needs now and in the future.
I just purchased a Kitchenaid counter depth side by side that is 35
1/2 wide. It's fitted into a 36 1/2 space, which leaves 1/2" on each side. I don't see any problem with taking it down another 1/2". It would be just a little harder to mauever into place, but no big deal.
As someone else pointed out, don't rely on the dimensions from the store. Go the the manufacturer's websites and download the install directions and any physical spec sheets. They indicate the exact size and most call out the clearances required on all sides. Many of the ones I've seen don't call out any clearance at all for the sides. Some call out like 1/2" on top, 1/2" to 1" in back, etc.
Bottom line, for a variety or readily available standard size fridges, I don't see a problem with a 36" opening. The fridge manufacturers are making these things to works with std cabinet sizes. Also, look into the depth issue. There are fridges like mine that are made to be counter depth. They are a few inchs taller, but with std cabinet depth, you can sink the fridge in so that only about 1/2 the door thickness sticks out. You can't get it farther back than that because if you do there isn't clearance for the door. When it opens, it will hit the cabinets at the edges of the opening. I elected to have the entire door thickness stick out, as I think that looks better. With stainless, it gives it a built-in pro kitchen look.
Actually, Viking has the solution for making them totally flush. On some models now they have a nifty hinge. The fridge can be totally flush to the cabinet, zero clearance. When you pull the door handle, the door first moves straight out on both sides for an inch or so, then rotates like a normal door would. It's really cool, but of course $$$$.
Also, pay attention to the height. If you want a counter depth one, they are taller. When I replaced mine, I had to take the cabinet above out and have it shortened. But I think it's well worth it, as having a fridge sticking out looks ugly compared to having one that looks built-in.
Yep, I measured again just to be sure. My cabinet opening is 34" wide, which still leaves about 1/2" or more on each side of the fridge.
However, as I mentioned, nobody seems to want the old "standard" fridge sizes anymore and 36" wide refrigerators are becoming more common. We simply have no need for that kind of space, and we saved a lot of money buying a smaller "less trendy" refrigerator (21 cu/ft for $550 back in
2004). My wife makes cakes and we can still fit a full size sheet cake in there. We even have one of those new fangled ice-makers. :)
Also, a traditional refrigerator tends to stick way out beyond a standard
24" counter. Because we had room to work with, I simply made the cabinets and counters 32" deep around the fridge. So we achieve something close to the look of a built-in while using a standard refrigerator. It also gives us extra counter space in front of the countertop microwave, nice for taking out a dish and stirring.
As a professional custom cabinet maker, we have seen refrigerators "grow" o ver the years. We routinely recommend that we build the cabinets to leave a 38" width opening. Even if your current refrigerator, or the one you cur rently plan to purchase, doesn't need this much space...think about down th e road. You might have the opportunity to upgrade again in the future. Or , maybe you'll want to sell your home.
The kitchen has always been a major focus in home sales, and kitchen applia nces are becoming an increasingly important part of the functionality and t he appeal of the kitchen (especially for all the "foodies" out there!). Th e greater flexibility of having a wider opening will broaden your sales mar ket.
Your idea of a filler (a spacer) is a good one. If you have a few extra do llars, you could have a custom panel built (or maybe that's what you mean b y spacer?). Custom panels are typically finished on both sides and the fro nt to give the refrigerator a built-in look, which has become a very popula r feature in kitchens we build. Because the panels are custom-made, they c an be whatever width looks best, yet still leaves sufficient ventilation sp ace (many manufacturers recommend 1 inch space on both sides of the refrige rator, or 1/2" at a minimum...a very important factor in cooling efficiency and refrigerator longevity).
My kitchen cabinets were built on the wall, and the builder put the refrigerator in the middle! We are looking to move the refrigerator to the end of the wall. In doing that I need to cut a straight line up the left side of the cutout up to the ceiling. What tool can I use to assure a straight smooth cut. I know it sounds crazy but it would be a better layout and I know it will require some patience
Can you clamp a straight-edge to it, eg piece of angle iron or lumber? Then you could use a circular saw. One of those small cordless ones would be perfect. After you cut it you're going to have to put matching veneer or something to finish it, otherwise you're going to see the cut edge. -I assume now that edge is finished.
replying to trader_4, Don wrote: oh man, I just put in a LG French door fridge, specs say 35 3/4" wide. My fridge cabinet over top is 36" wide. I have a fridge panel on right side of opening, up against a counter and base cabinet, and a floor to ceiling pantry on left side, so my opening is a true 36" wide. I thought all was good till I went to slide the fridge into place. I had measured the width of the fridge across the front and it was less than 36". Problem is the middle of sides of the fridge bulge out a bit on each side. True width of the fridge might be close to
36 1/8" wide. Oh damn. Had to shave some of the face panel on the pantry side down, now it fits but a very snug fit. I wish I had put a 1" filler strip between the pantry and upper fridge cabinet to have a 37" wide opening.
replying to infiniteMPG, Michael Klein wrote: What if the space is 35.75 exactly to fit a fridge (measures out just under 36" wide). Will a 35.75 wide fridge fit or is that really to tight?
Most manufacturers specify the minimum amount of clearance along the top and back and sometimes sides for proper cooling of the compressor/condenser coils.
That's a good point. Instead of looking at the dimensions of the unit look at what they spec for minimum opening. They have specs that state the minimum opening, which takes into account the clearance necessary to pull it in and out and any airflow, if that's an issue.
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