Busted jigsaw motor - fixable?

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After looking at the video I too think it's the brushes, still. They can look fine and be too short. When I couldn't find** brushes for my convertible top motor, I wadded up 2 little pieces of aluminum foil and put them underneath the springs that pushed the brushes against the commutator. So they pushed harder. The motor was still working when I got rid of the car 2 or 3 years later.
**Before I started, I'd found what I thought were the right size at a real hardware store that had 20 sizes of brush, and the carbon was the right size, but the braided copper "wire" of the new ones was 1/3 or less the x-section of the old ones. I couldn't lower the top to go looking for anything else, and so I figured it was safer to stick with the old one.
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I guess the coil could have shorted, wearing out one brush. It does behave a little better without the shorted coil connected. I'll try new brushes.
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On Sun, 08 May 2016 13:16:23 -0400, Micky

armature - guaranteed. Most likely a shorted coil - possibly (but unlikely) an open coil.. No set of brushes available will solve the problem - but if he keeps running it that way it WILL damage the brushes.
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Definitely shorted, definitely not open. I tested every pair of contacts, all 1.1 ohms, and one 0.1 ohms. I've disconnected the shorted one.
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*Squawk!* Pieces of Nine! Pieces of Nine! [Parroty error]

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On Sun, 08 May 2016 14:44:43 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Okay, I'll take your word on this. (And he confirms it.) I didn't know this could happen more than one in a million.
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People who design power tools are idiots. They never provide enough cooling for the motor. I sent a brush cutter back after 3 weeks because the motor burnt out with 30 minutes use.
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A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text.
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On 5/8/16 10:46 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

+1
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but it will likely cost as much as the saw. The armature on it has at least one bad winding on it - either shorted or open.
On a cheap unit generally not worth the effort. If it was a fein or festool, or possibly a Milwaukee or Delta it might be worth while. Black and decker or no-name-chinese, not worth even contemplating the repair.
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Well I've disconnected one winding, and I'll fit new brushes (which only cost a quid).
--
I took my Biology exam last Friday. I was asked to name two things commonly found in cells. Apparently "Blacks" and "Scousers" were not the correct answers.

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I'll sand the commutator and get new brushes.
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Black.... like the clouds of death that follow me into the forest of doom and hide in the wardrobe of darkness! Blaaaackk!

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When I saw "motor rewinding" advertised, I thought they were in the dodgy business of winding back the odometer on cars.
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If you walked into a motor rewinding shop with a consumer grade jig saw motor they would laugh you out into the street. These guys do big industrial motors that are worth their time. We did have a shop in Ft Myers that rewound Delco alternator stators in their spare time but only the most popular model and it was a swap out deal.
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On Sun, 08 May 2016 19:18:10 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

A friend has a van with tv and all the luxury stuff. To run all that stuff, his alternator is a special high amperage model. His alternator died, and he went to several auto parts stores. They said that it's a special alternator and is not stocked. It could be special ordered for around $170, (for a NEW alternator), and would take up to a week to get it.
He took it to a motor rebuilding shop instead. It took them almost 2 weeks to finish it, because the front bearing had gone out and chewed up the housing. So, they had to order a new front housing. When they finished, it cost him about $240. He said that's the last time he will take anything there....
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On 5/8/2016 6:45 PM, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

Business contact of mine has a boat, with alternator on the engine. The story is nearly the same. The local rebuild shop was hundred and some dollars. Amazon (dot com) had one for 65, postage included.
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On Sun, 08 May 2016 18:45:44 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

just one rebuilt on an assembly line of workers who knew nothing of it's operation or constructiom beyond the "place part A inside part B"
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On Sun, 08 May 2016 20:39:51 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

He said the parts store said it would be NEW..... Thats all I know.
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On Mon, 09 May 2016 00:59:26 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

$400-600 range, with rebuilts around 95-150. Of course it could be a "new" chinese knock-off in which case you may be farther ahead with a rebuild.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca says...

The way things are going now, I often wonder how much of the new cars are made in other countries. What used to be a China knock-off may well be OEM now. Maybe not from China , but another country which is just about as bad.
Seems like the stuff from China is sort of like from Japan years ago. Cheep and not well made, but as they keep sending stuff over the quality seems to be improving in some areas.
Some of the repair parts seem to be a ripoff. About 15 years ago on my Toyota a sensor went bad. I think it was the mass air flow. The cost was around $ 500. That seemed totally out of line in what something like that should cost. I bet the thing cost about $ 20 to make.
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My Honda CRV needed two ABS sensors. 160 each from the dealer here (without fitting, easy enough to do myself), not available elsewhere. I got a friend in another newsgroup to buy two in America and ship them over to the UK, which I think ended up at 110 each.
Then the same two sensors needed replacing on my VW Golf. 12 each for genuine parts of 5 each for copies. I will never buy Honda again.
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I am not familiar with Mexican quality. Is it as shit as Chinese?
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