building an apron around spa tub

Hi, I have a couple of questions about building an apron around my spa tub that I have in my bathroom. I want to build the apron and then tile it. Should I be using plywood as the base or cement board. Also, I am putting in an access area where the motor is. Any advice about this would be great! Thanks Janet
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
caledongrl wrote:

How are you making the apron? If you are using 2x4s - especially on 16" centers - 1/2 " cement board should be OK. You *could* use ply (well supported) and then put 1/2" cement board over that. You could even use 2x4s, ply AND cement board. IOW, make it strong and top with cement board to lay on the tile with thinset. ___________

Not knowing where the motor is, all I can say is make it neat and pretty :)
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Hi! The tub base is made of 2 x 4s, but not with 16" centres. I thought perhaps the 1" ply would be the best route to go. If I do both ply and cement board, think the wall will be too thick and will not fit under the lip of the tub. I would have to check that. I think that in order to make that scenario work, I would have to change how they installed the tub.
The access area is on the short side right in front of the motor. It is an 14 x 10 vent cover, I figured to just have a hole there, and cover it with a white vent...thingy.... Not sure if you can post pictures here, but I can take some and see if I can show what I mean. thanks! janet
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
caledongrl wrote:

I don't think I'd go to that extent.
Basically, you want whatever you put tile on to be rigid and inflexible. That applies to the top too since - as someone pointed out - people will likely sit on it. Much depends upon the structure to which the ply and/or cement board is to be afixed but 2x4s should be entirely adequate.
Cement board is a good surface for tile because it is cementacious and thinset - also cementacious - sticks very well to it. Thinset does NOT stick well to ply; for that, one uses a mastic...sticky stuff that dries hard but which is not cementacious.
Perhaps you could use 3/4" ply and 1/4" cement board?
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

A little more info on the access area might help.
Where will it be located? How big will it need to be? etc.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Google is our friend.
Not sure how you deal with the grout lines...
http://www.tile-experts.com/products.asp?id=36
Tileable, with a metal frame...
http://www.accessdoorsdirect.com/retiacdo24x2.html
Looks cheap, but they say it's tileable...
http://www.ronshomeandhardware.com/14x14-Access-Panel-p/110546.htm?Click=7805
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Janet,
Go to http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
This is a website where tile professionals will walk you through a project like yours. They give great advice and it's free.
Good luck with the project.
dss
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks for all the advice. I am thinking that I will go with the 1/4 cement board and 3/4" ply route and add in more vertical 2x4's for added support. I will check out the site in case there is an alternative. You just screw the cement board onto the ply correct?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
caledongrl wrote:

Yes. However, you need screws made for the purpose with heads that will set flush but not try to pull into the cement board. I don't recall the exact pattern but if you use screws every 6-8" you will be fine. Use longer screws over the 2x4 area so you bite into them.
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'd just tile over plywood. -----
- gpsman
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Janet,
You really should have some kind of substrate over the plywood. You'll need a layer of thinset between the ply and regular cement board so it starts to add up. There are other substrate options (Ditra) that aren't as thick. You also want plywood and substrate on the front and/ or sides. Tiling directly on plywood is asking for trouble. You may also want to waterproof the deck if you've got splashy people. (I'm assuming there is no shower.) You don't want to have to re-do this project just because you cut some corners.
A vent cover should work for the access. You could also use matching tile on the cover and caulk it in place or use magnets.
Don't forget to have fun.
dss
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I am now thinking it would be easier to buy the apron! lol.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Fascinating analysis.

Tile...? -----
- gpsman
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.