Buick with leaking head gasket

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in message wrote:

practical matter.

enough so that the engine runs rough all the time. Watch does with it is not my concern.

temp increases rapidly. If he puts in neutral and revs the engine, he says it drops to normal quickly. Radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, water pump all checked out and working normally.

if the the coolant pressure drops, which could be letting more exhaust leak into the coolant and raise the temp? Says when the temp goes high, he can smell antifreeze, probably blowing out the overflow.

and follow the

works. The worst

At this point

someone is

the duration

nailhead, or a

blocks and

Ford Ranger. It's the Ranger with the problem.

- 99%

had

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-a-blown-head- gasket-1

has good info and not trying to sell everybody. Manager said people who used www.kseal.com came back with good feedback - $16. Can be added to hot or cold system, compatible with antifreeze. Most of the others said to drain and flush system first.

$3 for enough for one system, Bars Head Gasket Fix $30, www.Motorpurr.com Seal $12 and Barr pellets $4.

copper filings. I'm sure they work at least sometimes, but I don't see how these things move into the leaks without getting blown out again. Seems like any stop leaks would work better if they were in the fuel, then the compression would force some into the leaks. Just guessing.

- I'm headed to the car swap meet to chat with the fellers and find a good rebuild shop. Will pick up a dozen eggs on the way!
No luck getting any tips this time, and decided to get doughnuts instead of eggs.
Stupid question # 500.... The stop leak says to drain out enough coolant to pour the stop leak in, remove the rad cap and pour it in but don't pour on the radiator core. Hmmm.... then rub your right elbow with your right hand....
Any other suggestions? What about pouring it into the heater return hose that goes to the block?
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On Sat, 25 Apr 2015 10:16:41 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

I've used the GM cooling sealant tabs a couple times. Once on a 2.2 when I noticed water staining under the head after a bought it. Drove it for years with no problems. Also used them as a preventative on a high mileage 3.1 before I put new intake manifold gaskets in. I've read that GM used them on new Northstars and maybe Vettes. Noticed on the 3.1 they left greasy deposits in the overflow tank and the rad filler rim. Might have sucked up some engine oil, but can't be sure. They are made from organic material. I've had good luck with Alumiseal powder in the old days, but it only last so long. The real solution is a dye to pinpoint the problem, then fix it,
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wrote:

practical matter.

so that the engine runs rough all the time. Watch does with it is not my concern.

increases rapidly. If he puts in neutral and revs the engine, he says it drops to normal quickly. Radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, water pump all checked out and working normally.

the the coolant pressure drops, which could be letting more exhaust leak into the coolant and raise the temp? Says when the temp goes high, he can smell antifreeze, probably blowing out the overflow.

follow the

The worst

this point

someone is

duration

nailhead, or a

and

Ford Ranger. It's the Ranger with the problem.

99%

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-a-blown-head- gasket-1

Thanks for that link. We used the TS guide just now....
Oil on dipstick was normal. Checked again after engine was hot and still OK.
When cold, coolant level was about 4 inches below the cap - just over the top of the core. Started up with cap off. No coolant pushed out. Coolant just sat there until thermostat opened and started to circulate normally. After started circulating a few minutes, level started to rise and eventually overflowed. Then we replaced the cap and turned if off.
He doesn't want to get into checking cylinder compression, radiator pressure at home. Suggested he have a shop check it.
If he decides to try to leak stop I'll post what we find out.
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Snuffy "Hub Cap" McKinney wrote:

rough all the time. Watch does with it is not my concern.

If he puts in neutral and revs the engine, he says it drops to normal quickly.
Radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, water pump all checked out and working normally.

pressure drops, which could be letting more exhaust leak into the coolant
and raise the temp? Says when the temp goes high, he can smell antifreeze,
probably blowing out the overflow.

Subaru had problems with leaky head gaskets in the late 90s. I was blessed with one of them. The officially official fix for my particular car was some sort of stop leak. I don't remember what they called it.
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On Sat, 25 Apr 2015 17:37:43 -0500, Dean Hoffman

I believe it was something from Halford? repackaged as Subaru OEM product. Or come to think of it - Holts. Something like "radweld".
Radweld plus - that's it.
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wrote:

matter.

the engine runs

rapidly.

normal

coolant

coolant

antifreeze,

was

particular

it.

Put a bottle of K-Seal in yesterday and let it idle it for 20 minutes. When we started it up, I did notice white smoke coming out the exhaust. Then went for a drive and -- shut my mouth and call me breathless -- that Ranger ran smooth as silk. We drove around awhile (stopping for burgers and other vital necessities) but took it easy. Drove again last night and still smooth. Both times when we got back, we checked the overflow, the level had not changed, and the overflow hose was cold. This morning we took it for another drive (stopping at the donut place, etc...). Same - looked good.
After all the overpressurizing, the coolant is now more water than it should be. We'll drain out half of it and add antifreeze to bring it back up. Thinking that we should filter out the drainage and then dump the copper powder back in.
Also this one has the type of rad cap that you pull up on a lever and it released pressure. I never trusted those types, so we'll get a standard cap today and slap that on.
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in message wrote:

matter.

the engine runs

rapidly.

normal

coolant

coolant

antifreeze,

was

particular

it.

Put a bottle of K-Seal in yesterday and let it idle it for 20 minutes. When we started it up, I did notice white smoke coming out the exhaust. Then went for a drive and -- shut my mouth and call me breathless -- that Ranger ran smooth as silk. We drove around awhile (stopping for burgers and other vital necessities) but took it easy. Drove again last night and still smooth. Both times when we got back, we checked the overflow, the level had not changed, and the overflow hose was cold. This morning we took it for another drive (stopping at the donut place, etc...). Same - looked good.
After all the overpressurizing, the coolant is now more water than it should be. We'll drain out half of it and add antifreeze to bring it back up. Thinking that we should filter out the drainage and then dump the copper powder back in.
Also this one has the type of rad cap that you pull up on a lever and it released pressure. I never trusted those types, so we'll get a standard cap today and slap that on.
--

At the risk of continuing to bore everyone to tears, I checked the parts
store today and they have 2 types of leak detection dye. One was to be
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On Mon, 27 Apr 2015 18:49:16 -0700, "Snuffy \"Hub Cap\" McKinney"

No. The leak is (at least for now) sealed. IF you decide to use dye, you want the stuff that foes in the coolant since it is the cooling system you are conceerned with You use the stuff for the oil when you are looking for an ail leak, or in the fuel if looking for a fuel leak. They make dye for use in refrigerant too, for checking A/C leaks
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wrote:

matter.

that the engine runs

increases rapidly.

normal

coolant

coolant

antifreeze,

was

particular

it.

minutes. When we started it up, I did notice white smoke coming out the exhaust. Then went for a drive and -- shut my mouth and call me breathless -- that Ranger ran smooth as silk. We drove around awhile (stopping for burgers and other vital

smooth. Both times when we got back, we checked the overflow, the level had not changed, and the overflow hose was cold. This morning we took it for another drive (stopping at the donut place, etc...). Same - looked good.

should be. We'll drain out half of it and add antifreeze to bring it back up. Thinking that we should filter out the drainage and then dump the copper powder back in.

it released pressure. I never trusted those types, so we'll get a standard cap today and slap that on.

parts store today and they have 2 types of leak detection dye. One was to be poured into the oil or fuel, the other goes in the coolant. In this situation, I'm only interested in the engine leaks. Part folks couldn't tell me anything and the answer man at the garage is gone home. On day 2, the coolant level is staying full, engine temp gauge staying in the lower 1/3 of the range and still nothing overflowing to the reservoir. Would you suggest using either of these to check for leaks at this point?

Thanks, you just saved me $7.95 plus tax. After I wrote that I took another drive and noticed it is still missing slightly. Thinking about putting another bottle of stop leak in tomorrow. Or better to wait a few days first?
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On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:45:03 PM UTC-4, Snuffy Hub Cap McKinney wrote:

It isn't exactly dye you want, it is leak detection fluid, and you usually need the kit too. The fluid reacts with exhaust gases and changes color, so this is a very positive test for a blown head gasket.
Explanation of the test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHp5E7XnbXo

Description of some other tests:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVn-IDi7da8

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wrote:

parts store today and they have 2 types of leak detection dye. One was to be poured into the oil or fuel, the other goes in the coolant.

usually need the kit too. The fluid reacts with exhaust gases and changes color, so this is a very positive test for a blown head gasket.

Thanks Tim. These are great!
The gas test for CO2 in the radiator from exhaust leaks got my attention. If exh gases are being pushed into the cooling system, seems logical that the fuel/air mixture would also be leaking during the compression stroke. I'm guessing that being diluted with exhaust and the cooler temp may not be risking an explosion. I like the way the guy in the 2nd video mentioned finding out what caused the gasket to leak.
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