On Saturday, December 27, 2014 7:48:32 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
For anyone here not familiar, on the X5 when the window regulator fails,
it sends the window glass crashing down into the door, usually breaking
it into a million pieces.
In decades of driving many vehicles, everything from a Fiat to MB,
I've only had one other window regulator fail. That was on a MB
when I took it to a car wash when it was 20F out and later went to
put the window down to pay a toll. The window was frozen stuck, and
it broke the regulator. The window was fine. On the BMW I've had
3 go, taking out 2 windows.
trader_4 wrote, on Sat, 27 Dec 2014 15:10:29 -0800:
Other than the expansion tank exploding, the CCV clogging in
cold weather (and hoses tearing in all kinds of weather) is
notorious. At least with the DISA and ABS you can remove
the parts easily. The CCV is *buried* in there.
Heck. It's just a PCV system with a fancy name and a dozen
Out here, in California, they don't get the "mayo" that
you get in cold weather, but our hoses still break (BMW
"redesigned" them with a wider angle) and our dipstick
guide tubes (which are an integral part of the CCV system!)
clog up just as much.
The V8 is even worse, as it has extra parts inside the engine
covers near the crankshaft and timing chain (I'm glad I have
the I6, which is simpler).
I don't think a single E39 has ever gone without having
that CCV system replaced at least once, and maybe twice
I'd rather have a PCV valve!
trader_4 wrote, on Sun, 28 Dec 2014 04:10:58 -0800:
Unfortunately, if you own a BMW, and if you do all your own work,
you're forced to learn a LOT about the thing.
What people do to prevent the concentric-ring clogging, is drill
a series of holes in the OUTER metal tube, taking care not to
drill through the inner tube (which is the dipstick guide tube).
There is a redesigned dipstick tube, but that used to cost an
arm and a leg (although I think it has come down in price since
it was originally introduced).
What I do is unclog it every few years, when I do the CCV or
when I have to track down a vacuum leak in the CCV hoses.
Stormin Mormon wrote, on Sun, 28 Dec 2014 07:54:27 -0500:
The house has three separate furnaces.
Two are down, and have been down for a couple of years.
We usually don't bother using them.
It rarely gets below freezing - maybe once a year or twice at most.
No snow (a dusting once every five years).
We use warm blankets. Lots of them!
The only problem is I'm soured on down.
I bought perhaps ten down blankets over the years, mostly at
Costco, and while they're soft, they tear and bunch up in the
wash, so much that I'm not going to buy down ever again.
We have goose feathers all over the house.
On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 12:06:02 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
So, what's the logical conclusion here? That something changed in
the properties of the metal? That's about all that's left, isn't it?
The insulator isn't shorted, it had continuity from tip to wire, etc.....
Funny thing, in the limited reading I did about flame sensors, I didn't
see anything about the metal needing to be special. Only that it needed
to be clean and you cleaned it up with sandpaper or steel wool, etc.
I'm left wondering what the actualy failure was.
Good to hear you got it going though and good info for the future.
Danny D. wrote, on Fri, 19 Dec 2014 23:56:58 +0000:
The heater certainly hasn't been turned on in a year, and maybe
in two years (as last year was warm). I don't remember, but, anyway,
the problem first looked like a reverse wire but the code was
basically constantly blinking.
As far as I can tell, that just means whatever old code was in
there has been wiped from the memory, so, it just blinked
incessantly to tell us that.
Anyway, we narrowed the problem to the fact that the flame wasn't
sensed, and, that meant only one of three things:
1. Bad flame sensor
2. Bad ground for the flame sensor circuit (through the flame)
3. Bad control board sensing of the flame sensor circuit.
I cleaned the flame sensor to no avail.
Replacing the $20 flame sensor solved the problem!
It's amazing that a simple stainless steel rod could fail, but,
it apparently did! Who knows why or how.
The way the flame sensor works is that 90VAC (nominal) is sent
to the flame sensor, which is just a steel rod with a single
electrical connection. When there is a flame, electrons flow
from the steel rod to the chassis ground of the burners through
the flame (rectifying the 90VAC to DC). The flame sensor circuit
on the control board senses the 5ua of DC current, and keeps the
relays on which control the propane gas flow.
The moment the 5ua of current isn't sensed, the control board
shuts down the relays controlling the flame, which is what
was happening. So, there was nothing wrong with the furnace,
other than the flame wasn't being sensed.
With the new flame sensor, everything is working fine.
What is almost incompressible to me is HOW the flame sensor
failed. It wasn't dirty. It wasn't shorted. It's just a steel
rod! The ceramic wasn't visibly cracked. I just don't get it,
but, it is what it is.
I've forgotten that information. But
still, results is what counts. I've
also replaced a couple sensor rods.
Now, on to the next repair. With 500
posts, 50 Flickr pictures, and 4,000
reply posts from the list.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
On Wed, 31 Dec 2014 05:22:55 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
Congratulations on fixing the problem. However, from an education
point of view, your statement that the flame sensor is just a hunk of
stainless steel is NOT correct. Google "thermocouple" and see how
they work. The current does not go through the flame. It is
generated by two pieces of dissimilar metals creating a voltage which
then causes a tiny current to flow and be sensed. They can and do go
Flame sensors of this type are _not_ thermocouples and indeed the
current is carried by the flame (actually ions produced by the
combustion process). Thermocouples are also used, but they're entirely
It is correct, however, that the flame detector is quite a bit more than
just a chunk of SS...
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