Bryant propane heater can't possibly be wired reversed (red LED blinks constantly)

Page 7 of 11  
Scott Lurndal wrote, on Tue, 23 Dec 2014 21:28:09 +0000:

Here, they use a < $10 cheap (#69096 Harbor Freight) meter!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v
Ľu044OJBc4#t 1
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Danny D. wrote, on Wed, 24 Dec 2014 05:44:44 +0000:

As much as I hate cheap tools, I might pick one of these up:
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/69000-69999/69096.pdf Harbor Freight 69096, Cen-Tech 7 FUNCTION DIGITAL MULTIMETER
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/24/2014 12:46 AM, Danny D. wrote:

Often free with coupon and any purchase. I have several, and find them to be very useful.
- . Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus www.lds.org .
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
trader_4 wrote, on Tue, 23 Dec 2014 08:00:29 -0800:

This is probably one of the better explanations of the flame sensor: http://www.robertshawtstats.com/spaw2/SiteContent/150-2163_RevB_1.pdf
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Pat wrote, on Tue, 23 Dec 2014 11:01:12 -0500:

Here's a good explanation of how the flame rod works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v
ž_it7G01gI
Now that I know how it works, I should be able to devise a test that doesn't require me to measure 5 ua of current.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
trader_4 wrote, on Tue, 23 Dec 2014 06:56:45 -0800:

You're definitely on to something here!
This video says reversed polarity will cause teh flame sense to not work!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&vJxj4WNRqMM#t16

Look at the test here for ground using AC voltage (< 2VAC):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=JE3MzApSN7E#tI8

From this video, the FS terminal (Flame Sensor) on the board is key:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JE3MzApSN7E

That control board FS terminal sends out a signal of 90VAC to the flame rod. The flame itself, acts like a diode and a resistor, connecting the flame rod to ground, which is the burner metal itself. Completing the circuit causes the control board to hold open a relay, which keeps the gas flowing.
I noticed my burners were rusty on their ends, so, I will try to clean them up.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7554/16090369721_b349404dd7_c.jpg
Any ideas how to clean up this burner end?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 3:21:37 AM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:

I wouldn't bother. It's just going to get rusted again. The existing rust probably serves as a protective barrier. Remove it and you just expose more fresh metal to oxidize.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/24/2014 3:21 AM, Danny D. wrote:

Wire brush, and blow the loose rust out. I've had case or two where rusty burner didn't light properly.
That could be your big problem.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 10:03:05 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I agree, if there is loose rust. From the pic I saw, it just looked like one end was rusty. If it;s just a light rust coating that isn't loose, I'd just leave it be. If you take it to bare metal, it's just going to repeat the rusting process.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/24/2014 10:18 AM, trader_4 wrote:

rust that the flame didn't spread from one burner to the next. That might help explain the lockout, here.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

They may have told you that, but I've never had a problem buying from them, and I'm not a contractor. It's close, just drive over. Then stop at the falafel drive-in across the street for a gyro & baklava.
scott
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The COM terminal is used in conjunction with the RED terminal to provide power to 'smart' thermostats like the Nest or the Honeywell units that have Wifi radios and other circuitry that needs constant power.
---john.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
trader_4 wrote, on Wed, 24 Dec 2014 04:13:39 -0800:

I have to agree with you.
One of the videos I watched was from a teacher who sabotages furnaces as a test for the students, & he said he can't make a flame sensor fail.
It's simply a stainless steel rod, mounted in an insulator, which is just about the simplest and most rugged of all possible sensors.
a. The rod can get carbonized (hence less conductive) b. The insulator could lose its insulating abilities (not likely) c. The burner can lose ground (or develop high resistance).
Even though I have a new flame sensor on order, I can't imagine that there is anything wrong with my current flame sensor, since, as you note, the thing is just a steel rod.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wednesday, December 24, 2014 11:45:30 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:

You didn't get the tank filled with non-conductive propane, instead of the conductive kind, did you?
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 12/25/2014 6:02 AM, trader_4 wrote:

It's like ethanol gas, the old stuff is so hard to find now days. Causes more problems.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
John Haskey wrote, on Wed, 24 Dec 2014 19:14:37 +0000:

In my case, the COM seems only to be used for the outside air conditioning unit.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8669/15904853568_4203e811cb_b.jpg
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
trader_4 wrote, on Wed, 24 Dec 2014 04:04:51 -0800:

Fair enough. In my case, everything is working, so I guess that the "component test" didn't tell me anything.
The only problem is that the flame is incorrectly *not* being sensed, but the "component test" doesn't seem to turn on the flame, so, it wouldn't know that.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tony Hwang wrote, on Wed, 24 Dec 2014 08:35:02 -0700:

Igniter works fine.
I borrowed a more sensitive meter from a neighbor, which can read down to 1/10 of a microamp.
It reads zero microamps when the flame is heating the flame sensor:
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7544/15914445367_0c4bdbdf1a_b.jpg
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
trader_4 wrote, on Wed, 24 Dec 2014 04:20:58 -0800:

Fair enough.
Since the flame lasts about 7 seconds, there was time just now to test the shutoff by shorting the flame sensor to ground within that seven second window. But, as you guessed, nothing different happened.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7487/16100185015_7f78da620b_b.jpg
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tony Hwang wrote, on Wed, 24 Dec 2014 08:45:40 -0700:

I think I have three choices right now:
1. Bad flame sensor 2. Bad control board 3. Bad ground for the control board or flame sensor
I think the flame sensor being bad is really remote, only because the thing is simply a rod, and I've cleaned it with emery cloth to no avail.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7547/15914444357_1041d3cfc5_b.jpg
The control board may be bad, but, it's certainly giving the flame sensor the nominal 90VAC that it's supposed to give it.
Here you see a reading of 104VAC from the flame sensor input wire to ground, which can only be coming from the control board.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8599/16074410246_15ec932464_b.jpg
Yet, when the flame sensor should be outputting 1ua to 6ua, it actually outputs nothing, even when tested with a sensitive meter:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8611/15912901830_eaaecc44dc_b.jpg
I even grounded the burner with a jumper and nothing changed.
Add pictures here
✖
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.